4 replies to this topic

[Daze]

Hi all,

I've got a pair of carbon/fiberglass doors to fit to my Mini, along with Polycarb windows. I have fitted the windows already, quite easy, but looking for some advise on how to fit the doors to the car...

I've got all brand new hinges and hoping to use the standard locking mech, standard hinges & standard handles.

Anyone got any advise before I tackle this?

I'm having nightmares of things not lining up - and the carbon/fiberglass breaking..

Ta!
Daze

[Wil_h]

If you take an old door apart then you can see what holes are required to fit the handles and hinges. Carefully measure everything then mark and drill. You can damage the gelcote with the drill, use a bit of masking tape and drill from the gelcote side.

Even with the best will in the world GRP dors will not be a perfect fit, and will not line up perfectly. They also won't seal peoperly, so expect to get wet in the rain, especially at speed as the top edges of the doors will pull out. I presune that you are using them for a race car, as they're not really suited to road use.

[Daze]

Cool ok, cheers. I'll give that a go.

I was also thinking that I will also brace the lock mech & hinges with metal plates to ensure they don't get pushed through the doors.

The car is built for road/track use. Not my everyday car by a long way.
I would hope the doors should be OK for road use to shows / track use, etc, surely?

[Wil_h]

Yes, use a spreader plate for the hinges.

I personally wouldn't use them on a road car, for the reasons I've said. I would consider them for a track only car, but my preference would be a steel frame with an aluminium or GRP skin.

I have them on my hillclimber as I want to go as fast as possible and all the disadavantages are out weighed by performance.

For road use and track days (where there is no timing) I'd prefer something more solid.

[Dan]

As suggested above and as we always say when people ask about fitting plastic doors, they aren't usually built for use as doors. They are racing parts designed simply to fill a hole in the body. They don't last long if you use them as you would a normal, steel door. GRP doors built to be as sturdy as a real door and to take the same level of abuse are heavier than steel doors. Do the type you have include the inner frame? I would suggest that you will need to add some triangulation from the hinges and latch into the outer skin if they don't. You may want to add some form of secondary, stick on, seal to the upper section too because these doors usually flex outward at speed and the standard door seals don't work with them. Follow the advice above and carefully transfer the measurements for everything to the new door and try to consider the forces that each part of the mechanism will be subjected to before designing any spreader or doubler plates and triangulation.

You should also consider how they are going to perform in a crash. Being race parts they are designed to have a roll cage and door bar behind them. Think about how the plastic will perform especially if they are single skin. Also think about how securely they close and latch and if they will still open after a crash when they are pushed further into the body aperture than a steel door would be. They will need to be secure enough to pass an MOT at least.

Good luck.

Edited by Dan, 21 April 2009 - 08:33 AM.