5 replies to this topic

[bigcon]

Hi, just managed to start my 1275 metro engine thats been sat in the my garage/1988 mini rose for the past 2 years and runs lovely (except for a bit of smoke from the crankcase breathers!), went to turn her off and bugger me the key turns round and it's in my grubby mitts but the engine's still running!! Had to pull the spark plugs to stop it, but do you reckon it's a knackered ignition barrel as there seemed little resistance when turning the key, also I don't know exactly how long the car hasn't been used but it's at least 2 years I've owned it, thanks alot and darn it I didn't win the minispares vouchers!!

[2lrminivan]

sound like u need a new barrel.
next time put it into gear and with 1 foot on the brake pedal and lift the clutch and it will stall

Edited by 2lrminivan, 24 April 2009 - 07:50 PM.

[spiguy]

sound like u need a new barrel.
next time put it into gear and with 1 foot on the brake pedal and lift the clutch and it will stall

Or alot safer would be to pull off a low tension wire on the coil - as its only at 12V. Pulling the spark leads / coil HT lead could result in a nasty shock!

[dklawson]

Before you change the ignition switch try this one test.

First confirm the problem is still there. Start the engine and try to turn it off. If the engine won't stop, hold a short length of wire between an earthing point and the coil (-) terminal (the one with the white/black wire on it). This will disable the ignition system as long as the wire is held in place. Alternatively, pull the center cable off the dizzy cap or coil to kill the ignition. It's quicker than pulling individual plug wires.

Assuming the problem persists, with the engine OFF, pull the plug from the back of the alternator. Try starting and stopping the engine again. If the engine continues to run with the alternator unplugged, look at the ignition switch as the possible problem. If however, this time the engine stops, have your alternator tested and plan on replacing or repairing it.

If the electronics in the alternator die (particularly the diode pack) the alternator can feed voltage back up to the ignition switch so that even when the key is off the coil is powered.

[bigcon]

Before you change the ignition switch try this one test.

First confirm the problem is still there. Start the engine and try to turn it off. If the engine won't stop, hold a short length of wire between an earthing point and the coil (-) terminal (the one with the white/black wire on it). This will disable the ignition system as long as the wire is held in place. Alternatively, pull the center cable off the dizzy cap or coil to kill the ignition. It's quicker than pulling individual plug wires.

Assuming the problem persists, with the engine OFF, pull the plug from the back of the alternator. Try starting and stopping the engine again. If the engine continues to run with the alternator unplugged, look at the ignition switch as the possible problem. If however, this time the engine stops, have your alternator tested and plan on replacing or repairing it.

If the electronics in the alternator die (particularly the diode pack) the alternator can feed voltage back up to the ignition switch so that even when the key is off the coil is powered.

Sounds like a plan stan, I'll give it a go and keep you posted, many thanks!

[bigcon]

Sorted it out today, a rogue cable from the starter motor to the coil was one problem and also the starter relay was playing up, so new relay in, re-terminated cable and bingo bango the little beauty starts and turns off!! Only worrying thing now is a suspect noise from the engine at certain revs which needs investigating, ah the joys of motoring!!!