10 replies to this topic

[minitomfoolery]

I've had a few issues with my HIF44 recently and because of the tiny amount of space between the carb and bulkhead it wont just 'Slide' off as mr. haynes seems to think it will.. Any ways i'm starting to get fed up of having to dissemble the entire manifold and exhaust system just to take it off and on again. Of course this isn't a problem if you do it just once but after a few goes it gets annoying!

So my plan is the cut a box out of the bulkhead using a drill and reciprocating electrical hacksaw. So I can basicly just undo the carb and slide it off the manifold thats left in situe, then through the hole in the bulkhead and out the dashboard (removed of course) Hopefully it will improve access to the manifold bolts too? :/ . Then im going to fabricate a panel from checker plate or something that I can use to cover the hole when its all back together. Hope that makes sence.


I'm going to say for the outset im not a Einstein and its properly been done a thousand times before from guys on here so was just looking for advice, ideas and pictures really. Anyone notice any obvious problems I may have missed?

Thanks guys.

[Pooky]

Why is it so close to the bulkhead?

Have you got a pic of it?

[minitomfoolery]

Why is it so close to the bulkhead?

Have you got a pic of it?

I'll get one asap... If I had like 10mm more space then there would be enough! Ive seen a few that are the same..It has a alloy inlet manifold, so I think it may be abit longer than the standard manifold? :/

I also know the car used to have a 998, if that makes any difference.

[Professor Peach]

the most common approach is to cut a square hole and replace it with a battery box. This doesn't interfere with anything mush unless you have a centre clock binnacle.
the pic is what we 've done but we fabricated a larger boxs for better air flow. but you get the idea.




prof

[In-a-mini]

Do you undo the top engine stay? usually there isnt enough room the bottom of the hiff44 touches the lip of the hole in the bulkhead.

edit: the above mod is usually when fitting webber dcoe's on long manifolds and is a bit drastic just for a hiff lol

Edited by In-a-mini, 27 April 2009 - 07:30 PM.

[Frog]

I've had a few issues with my HIF44 recently and because of the tiny amount of space between the carb and bulkhead it wont just 'Slide' off as mr. haynes seems to think it will.. Any ways i'm starting to get fed up of having to dissemble the entire manifold and exhaust system just to take it off and on again. Of course this isn't a problem if you do it just once but after a few goes it gets annoying!

So my plan is the cut a box out of the bulkhead using a drill and reciprocating electrical hacksaw. So I can basicly just undo the carb and slide it off the manifold thats left in situe, then through the hole in the bulkhead and out the dashboard (removed of course) Hopefully it will improve access to the manifold bolts too? :/ . Then im going to fabricate a panel from checker plate or something that I can use to cover the hole when its all back together. Hope that makes sence.


I'm going to say for the outset im not a Einstein and its properly been done a thousand times before from guys on here so was just looking for advice, ideas and pictures really. Anyone notice any obvious problems I may have missed?

Thanks guys.

What manifold have you got, I run hif44 on both my mini's with alloy inlets & I don't have any concerns with clearance, where as spenner runs the same carb with a howley inlet & there is no clearance at all. I have found in the past that one of the best alloy inlets is the standard mg metro one. It flows well & leaves plenty of clearance. If not then maniflow are very good. You shouldn't have to cut holes in your car to accomodate a carb unless going to a dcoe webber or some such item.

[Southy]

No need to cut yourself a hole in the bulkhead, get yourself a piece of 4x2 timber and place it endon against the bulkhead behind where your carb sits and give it a few hits with a lump hammer to knock it slightly backwards.

I did this to my clubby last year and worked perfect.

[minitomfoolery]

No need to cut yourself a hole in the bulkhead, get yourself a piece of 4x2 timber and place it endon against the bulkhead behind where your carb sits and give it a few hits with a lump hammer to knock it slightly backwards.

I did this to my clubby last year and worked perfect.

Worth a try I guess, dont really want a battered dent in the back to be honest though.

Tried undoing the engine steady, and there still wasn't enough clearance.

The manifold is unbranded, so i have no idea what it is. All i know is there is half a inch, if that between the float chamber and the air filter cut-out. That air filter actually leans against the bulkhead.

Thanks Professor Peach for the pictures, thats exactly what im thinking of doing but on a smaller scale.

Cheers for the response.

[Professor Peach]

No need to cut yourself a hole in the bulkhead, get yourself a piece of 4x2 timber and place it endon against the bulkhead behind where your carb sits and give it a few hits with a lump hammer to knock it slightly backwards.

I did this to my clubby last year and worked perfect.

Worth a try I guess, dont really want a battered dent in the back to be honest though.

Tried undoing the engine steady, and there still wasn't enough clearance.

The manifold is unbranded, so i have no idea what it is. All i know is there is half a inch, if that between the float chamber and the air filter cut-out. That air filter actually leans against the bulkhead.

Thanks Professor Peach for the pictures, thats exactly what im thinking of doing but on a smaller scale.

Cheers for the response.

anytime

[dave21478]

hell no, undo the engine steadies (rember the lower one if your car has one fitted) and hoik the engine forward. Dont be afraid to give it a good yank, or lever it forwards using a sturdy bit of wood.
With the steadies undone, normal engine mounts should give a good few inches fore and aft movement of the engine which should be plenty.

[matt615]

Do you have an after market inlet manifold fitted? If so then that's probably why the carb is so close to the bulkhead. If you can get hold of a Rover Cooper/MG Metro inlet manifold, then your carb should fit with a lot more clearance.