Yes I did use search to find advice on separating the clutch assembly from the crank. After days of trying and having to build my own puller, still no luck. I feel I’m going to need to cut it off but I have no idea what the process is. Can someone that that to cut the clutch assembly off share how they did it? Since I never had one of these apart yet and only have pictures to go on, what’s the black piece that’s actually tapered on to the crank? I don’t see it in any exploded diagram of a Verto clutch assembly? I read somewhere maybe it’s a “center hub cone”??? If so, why is it not mentioned anywhere?
Some background first…
It’s a Verto AP clutch on a 1300 Metro. I believe the year is 1988 (got it from the build date on the dizzy). Broke two junk pot metal pullers then built my own using ¾” solid metal and all grade 8 hardware. The center bolt on the puller is ¾”. I used that for a few days tightening every so often and tapping the center bolt. After 3 days, two of the 3/8” bolts stripped out the threads to whatever they were screwed in to. I just drilled and re-tapped them to 7/16 and will try again tonight. I have a feeling I’m going to strip those too.
When I removed the retaining bolt and keyplate and trying to pull the flywheel the crankshaft slots were horizontal so I don’t know if the C-shaped washer is causing the problem. Any help would be much appreciated. I’m trying to save the crank since a replacement is about $600 in the States.
Thanks,
Wayne

Help! Stuck Flywheel
Started by
80sMiniCity
, Apr 28 2009 03:07 PM
2 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 28 April 2009 - 03:07 PM
#2
Posted 28 April 2009 - 09:43 PM
oh !
you made a flywheel puller, well you may need to remake it with a 1.5" UNF or better UNEF main centre bolt......... Grade 8 bolts are made from reconstituted chocolate not even proper english chocolate either.....
Try 13.9 high tensile bolts if you can't get these try a similar grade in imperial.... "S" or "X" should be ok and at 7/16" these should not fail (oh dear, famous last words ! ) the thread has pulled out probably due to the grade 8 bolt stretching and pulling one after the other of the threads out of the flywheel.
the "C" washer is really only a problem after it is loose...
I know this is only bad news, but if your crank to flywheel is in this condition its normally due to micro welding of the two surfaces and they will more than likely be junked
If you do get it off you could get it metal sprayed and re-ground back to good
this would not be cheap, but it would be cheaper than a new crank
you made a flywheel puller, well you may need to remake it with a 1.5" UNF or better UNEF main centre bolt......... Grade 8 bolts are made from reconstituted chocolate not even proper english chocolate either.....
Try 13.9 high tensile bolts if you can't get these try a similar grade in imperial.... "S" or "X" should be ok and at 7/16" these should not fail (oh dear, famous last words ! ) the thread has pulled out probably due to the grade 8 bolt stretching and pulling one after the other of the threads out of the flywheel.
the "C" washer is really only a problem after it is loose...
I know this is only bad news, but if your crank to flywheel is in this condition its normally due to micro welding of the two surfaces and they will more than likely be junked

If you do get it off you could get it metal sprayed and re-ground back to good


#3
Posted 28 April 2009 - 09:53 PM
when i separate flywheels off cranks i use a cheapy puller. get it tight tight with a breaker bar, leave it for five mins. then give it a nice flat hit with a small ish lump hammer and they just simply fall off
works for me

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