6 replies to this topic

[BiMU]

I'm running a Mini City on 10inch Cooper S Replica alloys with adjustable camber and tie bars. Today I will be replacing the front tyres and will also be getting it re-tracked.

My questions are:

Where should I get them to jack up the mini? (tie bar subframe fixing point or subframe?)
After putting on tyres should I give it a once around the block? (to settle the suspension?)
What camber settings should I go for when I get it tracked?

Any help would be great!
Thanks,

Jason

Edited by BiMU, 05 May 2009 - 05:05 AM.

[L400RAS]

Where should I get them to jack up the mini? (tie bar subframe fixing point or subframe?)
After putting on tyres should I give it a once around the block? (to settle the suspension?)
What camber settings should I go for when I get it tracked?

Hi Jason,

Regarding jacking points, never let the tyre boys jack up on the floor directly behind the front wheels, as it simply bends the floor upwards- most of my cars have had this lump to prove it. Same goes for the rover/austin recommended jacking point in the sill, if your sills are a little weak, they'll punch holes etc. Stay clear of tie bar mounts also - the absolute best way is the subframe, there should be a flat spot on the frame, on each side of both subframes. At the front drivers side, there is the main battery cable - carefull not to "nip" it to the subframe with the seat of the jack!. Also, on the rear frame, the flat spot is quite a way under the car - carefull not to go too far and again start jacking on the floor.

Ive never needed to drive it to settle the suspension, but certainly wont hurt if it puts your mind at rest.

If you do not have adjustable bottom arms, negative camber brackets fitted, they will not be able to adjust this for you so don't worry. I would recommend tracking the car, to preserve tyres, they should have a book stating how much toe out yours should have, however this is what the haynes book says:

Front wheel:
Toe setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.58 mm toe-out
Castor angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3º ± 1º positive
Camber angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2º ± 1º positive
Swivel hub inclination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9º 30’

HTH
Ryan

[Guess-Works.com]

Well, technically speaking you're running a late model mini with 8.4" disk brakes and them huge offset 10" allow wheels made to look like cooper S rims...

These can massively affect the operation of the suspension and steering.

If you've got adjustable bottom arms, tie bars etc then you need to get them set up by someone who knows what they are doing and this is not you local Quick - fit tyre firm...

Production figures should only be used as a base line.

[MRA]

Totally agree, with these guys.

Also if you have fully rose jointed heavy duty bottom arms and fully rose jointed heavy duty tiebars then the figures change cpmpletely

Have a look under your car

Where the bottom arm fixes to the subframe is it rubber (or similar) material or is it an adjustable spherical bearing, we make/sell one with a complete 360 rubber boot so give this area a good check ?

Also what is the diameter of the tiebar (round bar that goes from hub to front of subframe) if it's 1/2" then it's standard

At the point where the tiebar fixes to the front of the subframe has it got rubber type bushes ?

Regards Martin

[BiMU]

Totally agree, with these guys.

Also if you have fully rose jointed heavy duty bottom arms and fully rose jointed heavy duty tiebars then the figures change cpmpletely

Have a look under your car

Where the bottom arm fixes to the subframe is it rubber (or similar) material or is it an adjustable spherical bearing, we make/sell one with a complete 360 rubber boot so give this area a good check ?

Also what is the diameter of the tiebar (round bar that goes from hub to front of subframe) if it's 1/2" then it's standard

At the point where the tiebar fixes to the front of the subframe has it got rubber type bushes ?

Regards Martin

Hi guys,

I have heavy duty adjustable bottom arms and heavy duty adjustable tie bars (not the rose jointed ones though, I wish!) I got these when I had 13's as they gave me loads of trouble so needed a fully adjustable set up. The 10's were second hand and had little tread when I bought them. I also had the a bearing and ball joints just replaced (but had these probs when I had the 13's) and now replacing the tyres and getting the tracking and geometry set up properly to give the Cooper S Reps a good and fair trial. The place I'm going to has laser tracking set up and do print outs of before and after. I was just wondering if people running on 10's had a different setting to the Haynes settings?

[MRA]

So, correct me if I am wrong, all your suspension is adjustable but none of it is rose jointed ?

Start with the following

maximum of 1.5 degrees of Negative camber
tighten up the tolerance on the castor
and reduce the toe out ro about 1.2mm

Don't forget that as you adjust one item on your car so something else is being "reacted" upon...... which means that unless you take it to someone who knows exactly what is happening to your suspension then the chances are that you will be there all day going round and round.... or your set up will not be that accurate

This should give you a nicer "freer" driving car whilst also gaining some cornering advantage.

Quite simply the system you have is less felxible and therefore does NOT need to have such "wide" settings

[BiMU]

So, correct me if I am wrong, all your suspension is adjustable but none of it is rose jointed ?

Correct! I have:

Adjustable Tie Bars.
Adjustable Bottom Arms