16 replies to this topic

[stormintrooper]

basically a few weeks back when i was putting in henry's engine back in i noticed the steering rack gaitors had split and when i deem him road worthy im takin him for his MOT so obviously they need to be sorted but want to do it myself provided its not a big big job, what exactly does it entail?

[Big_Adam]

Remove the track rod ends, destroy old clips holding gaiters on, pull of gaiter, put on new one.

Takes an hour+ depending on gaiter clips. Plastic is easy, metal ones will be rusted on. If you can do an engine you can do gaiters.

[stormintrooper]

how hard is it to remove track rod ends? and also is there anything i should do before putting a new one on? such as grease of something?

[mrslaphead]

Remember to get your tracking checked afterwards, also try and count how many turns it takes to remove the track rod end and then screw it back on the same number of times. In the past I have put tape on the steering rack to mark where to adjust the track rod ends to.

Do you have a Haynes manual ?

[lrostoke]

I used a junior hacksaw to just cut a slight mark where the track rod fitted to, tried tape but it makes getting the new gaitor on a pain.

[stormintrooper]

i have a haynes yes but no access to it at this time hence my thread

[Bock]

Hey,

my gaiters failed my MOT. I've got till the end of January to fix them till free retest runs out. Not too keen on having the tracking redone so what's the chances of cutting and glueing my new set working?

any suggestions as to what glue I should use?

Thanks

[dklawson]

Forget the glue. If you are set on glue, thoroughly degrease the gaiter inside and out around the tear. Use Krazy-Glue (cyanoacrylate) to bond the split rubber together. Then loosen the gaiter clamps and rotate the repaired split so it is at "the top".

Replacing the gaiters does NOT have to be a major thing though. Here is what I do:
1) Degrease the jam nut and rod end on the steering rack rod.
2) While that is drying, use a scissor type joint splitter to break free the tapered pin on the rod end from the steering arm.
3) Do not remove the tapered pin from the steering arm, leave it loosely in place with its nut still on.
4) Return to the jam nut. Paint mark (with a continuous line) the steering rack rod, the jam nut, and the tie rod end. What you are establishing is the relative position of all three parts. Make sure the paint covers the place where the threaded rod goes into the jam nut.
5) Allow that paint to dry.
6) Hold the rod end with one big wrench and turn the jam nut counterclockwise with another wrench to loosen it. Expect that to be a very, very stubborn joint.
7) As soon as the jam nut breaks free, turn it back until it just contacts the tie rod end and note if the paint marks have been damaged. If so... repaint them.
8) Finally, remove the tie rod from the steering arm and the rack. Then remove the jam nut and the torn gaiter.
9) After you have fitted the new gaiter, run the jam nut back down the rack rod until the paint marks line up. Then thread the tie rod end back on. Tighten securely making sure the paint marks stay lined up.
10 Refit the tie rod to the steering arm and torque it's nut.

It sounds like a lot of work... but it is not. If you are re-using the old tie rod ends this method will let you carry out the repairs and leave the steering geometry unaltered.

[mikey72]

Put new tie rod ends on.
They're only a few quid each, and they can be a pain to remove, so worth doing.

[1984mini25]

I used a junior hacksaw to just cut a slight mark where the track rod fitted to,

DON’T you’ll trash the treads making any future tracking adjustment a pain in the arse.

Just slacken off the locking nut, brake the taper on the track rod end and count the number of turns it takes to wind it off.

Edited by 1984mini25, 05 January 2011 - 10:27 PM.

[Bock]

thanks for the replies.

We started this morning and can't get the track rod ends off, we've unloaded a serious amount of WD40 at the lock nut end and and now waiting. any ideas on how I can get the end of more easily?

Thanks a lot for help.

[Stevee]

if your really good you can pop the new boot over the track rod end ;] im that good i can way to much pratise though

[dklawson]

Sorry, but without capitalization and punctuation I am having a heck of a time understanding what you typed. Did you mean....

If you are really good you can pop the new boot over the track rod end. ;]
I am that good. I can.
Way to much practise though.

I guess you might be able to stretch the big end of the gaiter over the rod end. How do you get the small end to go over the rod end without splitting?

Bock, you DID leave the track rod end resting in the steering arm didn't you? If the jam nut is tight there is almost no way you will be able to apply enough torque to get the jam nut loose if the rod end is not in the steering arm. If you took the rod end out of the steering arm, put it back temporarily with the nut on (it does NOT have to be fully seated). Then use two large open end wrenches (spanners) to turn the jam nut off. Use the biggest (longest) wrenches you have so you develop the most torque. You can also heat the nut with a propane torch and quench it with penetrating oil. If you do this a few times, the jam nut should come loose. If you opt for heat, wipe off the excess oil from the joint before applying the flame and be prepared for the area to ignite briefly each time you use the torch.

[Bock]

Hi,


thanks a lot for your advice. We got it done in the end. took four weeks worth of WD40 and jacking the car down onto a raised spanner to get it but its done. Once the locknut was undone it was all very easy. We ended up counting every flat as we unscrewed the lock nut to ensure we got it all in the right place once we were finished.

Thank you.

[Dan]

Counting the flats assumes the rod end has the exact same finish machined length as the one it's replacing. Sadly, it's not always the case. You should still get the tracking checked, a check is usually free.