14 replies to this topic

[lukehawk129]

im having a spot of difficulty of how to replace the inner R/H sill and i dnt no how to replace it ??

please help

Attached Files

•  090530_200338.jpg   358.17K   214 downloads

[robtheplod]

I'm still learning myself on this, but I would personally be suspicious of what is behind where the beam ends and remove the outer sill so you can see (depends how far you want to go!!). Cut out the metal and weld in a new piece and that should do it!

[HARBER07]

I would personally take the outer sill off, chop out what needs to be replaced (and as above - the jacking point is probably knackered), then patch up from underneath, prime/underseal/waxoyl/whaever you want to do, then fit a new outer sill. Thats probably not the easiest (most sensible??) way by all means, but thats how i would do it myself.

For some reason i decided to repeat robtheplod

Edited by HARBER07, 30 May 2009 - 08:01 PM.

[jjojjas]

What have you got? if you have an inner sill repair panel then cut out the rot to withing about 3mm of the repair, then weld the repair onto the hole.
Just read that back, it sounds a little obvious.
Have you got a repair panel or are you going to weld some steel on you have at hand?
If your welding on a patch, then cut out the rot until you get back to good steel. Once you have done that you can cut a cardboard template that fits, then transfer it to the steel, then cut it out and weld it on.
If the outer is ok, I wouldn't remove it. Leave it until the other is needing replacement.
Unless you want to weld for another day longer......
Jas

[HARBER07]

Depends how fast you can weld

[jjojjas]

Depends how fast you can weld

Pretty fast

[lukehawk129]

[quote name='jjojjas' date='May 30 2009, 09:58 PM' post='1473185']
What have you got? if you have an inner sill repair panel then cut out the rot to withing about 3mm of the repair, then weld the repair onto the hole.
Just read that back, it sounds a little obvious.
Have you got a repair panel or are you going to weld some steel on you have at hand?
If your welding on a patch, then cut out the rot until you get back to good steel. Once you have done that you can cut a cardboard template that fits, then transfer it to the steel, then cut it out and weld it on.
If the outer is ok, I wouldn't remove it. Leave it until the other is needing replacement.
Unless you want to weld for another day longer......
Jas



ive currently got a rover mini sprite 1993 model and i do have the inner sill and im thinking of cleaning the hole up and putting the new sill over it. I dont no if that is the best job to do. What do you think ?

[HARBER07]

A patch is a patch, which IMO is not a "proper" job. To keep the rust away you would need to paint/prep both sides of the repair, which i cant se how you would do from inside. I dont trust weld through primer myself, but it might be brilliant stuff. You might end up repeating yourself one day.

[jjojjas]

ive currently got a rover mini sprite 1993 model and i do have the inner sill and im thinking of cleaning the hole up and putting the new sill over it. I dont no if that is the best job to do. What do you think ?

I think it depends on what you want from the car. If its " a keeper" then I would remove the inner sill, drill out the spots, grind the bottom part at the floor, then weld in the repair panel. Even then the repair panel is just a patch. It welds over the box section and the floor etc.. There is no "inner sill" panel on a mini. It the floor that curls up at the edges and makes the inner sill. So whatever you do (to be pedantic) is a repair patch.

If your skint, your just using it as a runner, or your planning a bigger rebuild / more work on the floor in that area next year, then I would weld a plate over the top. The plate will rot through in 2 years or so, and its a bugger cutting out rotten bodges, but it will serve a purpose.
The choice is yours.
Jas

[HARBER07]

Yeah fair doos, i just dont like welding a "patch" personally (metal over a hole). I always make up "repairs" and butt weld them. Mine only needed "inner sills", but i ended up cutting the front floor out and butt welding that in underneath the crossmember, and along the exhaust tunnel. Dont know where im going with this now so ill stop

[lukehawk129]

well thanks you everyone for your help and i think i no what is the best option to take and i shall keep you all updated with picture and how im doing

yet again thanks alot

[chappy]

just to hi-jack a tiddly bit...sorry...


if i was to take off the outer sill and cut out the inners to be replaced, do i need to strengthen the body while i do it?



Thanks


Sam

[lukehawk129]

just to hi-jack a tiddly bit...sorry...


if i was to take off the outer sill and cut out the inners to be replaced, do i need to strengthen the body while i do it?



Thanks


Sam

good point lol sort of forgot about that and i dont no eather ??

[HARBER07]

Some say yes, some say no. Yould probably be alright with the doorstep there to be honest, but i just welded a bit of 1"x1" box across the doorframe when i took the floor, step, and sill off and it still drives straight. I wouldn't recommend moving it about too much till you've finished welding though.

Edited by HARBER07, 30 May 2009 - 11:03 PM.

[jjojjas]

As Harber says really^^^
If the inner and step are fine then you can whip the outer off no worries. Same with the inner, as long as the outer and step are ok.
People will say you'll be fine without a brace as long as theres at least one "sill" left out of the three....but Iv'e seen a few buckle. Not all mini's mind, but I learned the hard way many years back with a spitfire that moved about 5mm when I didn't brace it well enough.
Heres a brace on my current one..

Jas