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Sill Repair - Any Advice?


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#1 DFulton

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Posted 06 June 2009 - 10:10 AM

I've got a couple of small-ish holes in the (original) sill of my Mpi. I've got a little welding experience and have my own MIG. I'm thinking of trying to patch rather than replace - are there any guides on here anywhere? I've had a look and can't find anything. Specifically, I'm looking for info on:

- What thickness metal should I be using? Am I best in getting a replacement panel and cutting out the bits I need (don't really want to replace the whole panel).
- How am I best preparing? I'm assuming I grind back, spray with weld-through primer, cut a patch and butt-weld?
- Any tips on how to get clamps in place, or do I just hold and tack?

Any advice appreciated - or if there's a guide that I've missed, that would be perfect!

Thanks,

D

#2 Rosslin Racing

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Posted 06 June 2009 - 11:31 AM

the holes are around the jacking point? or at the back or front?
if its around the jacking point you will find a nightmare behind the sill!! whats the rest like?
I would replace the whole sill with a rover replacement, you can rust proof the inner sill at the same time

#3 peepzy

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Posted 06 June 2009 - 12:02 PM

i had the same problem and i was only going to patch it up bu then decided to replace the whole sil glad i did too it was a right mess underneath.. the previous owners had ''restored'' her... alls they did was weld a new sill on top of the old...TWICE... so the rust just kept feeding through...! best be on the safe side and see whats going on under there :P

#4 lrostoke

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Posted 06 June 2009 - 12:43 PM

I'm with the other two, replacing the whole sill isn't that bad a job, plus like mentioned you get to check out the state of the inner sill underneath.

#5 DaveRob

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Posted 06 June 2009 - 12:51 PM

I second all the advice given above..... I had 'small rusty bits in the sills'.... take a sill off and check inside..... make sure you are prepared for the worst cause it nealy alway bad....... I had a fw rust bubbles in the scuttle once..... I replaced every panel from the top dash rail forward.... sorry if this sounds bad.... but rust and Minis go together.... if in doubt take a sill off... better than patching anyways... have a look and then work out that its easier to replace the whole sill.... actually not a bad job to do

Rob

#6 Bungle

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Posted 06 June 2009 - 12:54 PM

just don't forget to move the carpets and sound proofing before welding

#7 Mattl

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Posted 06 June 2009 - 03:12 PM

just don't forget to move the carpets and sound proofing before welding


A new complete sill is about a tenner (pattern). As above, no matter how good you think it is. It will be rusty underneath! I would take the sill off, repair underneath and then put the new sill on.

No point botching it up. Do a pukka repair and it will last years longer

#8 DFulton

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Posted 06 June 2009 - 05:17 PM

Thanks for all the posts guys - I'll have a think about fitting a new sill. Was hoping to minimize the off-road time, but if that's what's necessary...!

The hole is actually quite near the front, rather than near the jacking point, and on the underside. The other side recently rotted through on the side of the sill rather than underneath, but my local MOT-man welded it to pass for about £50, so I was hoping this may prove as simple. I'll try to put up a photo this weekend.

D

#9 Mattl

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Posted 07 June 2009 - 08:30 PM

Thanks for all the posts guys - I'll have a think about fitting a new sill. Was hoping to minimize the off-road time, but if that's what's necessary...!

The hole is actually quite near the front, rather than near the jacking point, and on the underside. The other side recently rotted through on the side of the sill rather than underneath, but my local MOT-man welded it to pass for about £50, so I was hoping this may prove as simple. I'll try to put up a photo this weekend.

D


Its easy peasy to cover the rot up and plate it and it does get the car through the mot. However in the longer run it will lead to more work as the rot spreads through the floor section underneath the sill.

#10 lrostoke

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Posted 07 June 2009 - 08:38 PM

It shouldn't take more than a weekend to sort out properely replacing the sill and treating any other rot/rust you find lurking under it.

#11 DFulton

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Posted 08 June 2009 - 09:14 PM

Cool - if it's that straightforward, then I might go for the full job. Thanks for the advice!

#12 mjpuds

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Posted 09 May 2013 - 08:07 PM

i konw this is old but what sort of prices have you all been quoted when farmed out to a local welder..for outer sill work complete...and maybe some patch work underneth






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