
dual voice coil sub...
Started by
screech
, Sep 12 2005 06:05 PM
11 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 12 September 2005 - 06:05 PM
whats the correct way of wiring a dual coil sub over 2 channels bridged?
is it, + on one side and - of the other to one coil.
and the - of the first side to the + of the other to the other coil??
Many thanks.
mark.
is it, + on one side and - of the other to one coil.
and the - of the first side to the + of the other to the other coil??
Many thanks.
mark.
#2
Posted 13 September 2005 - 12:46 PM
right u've bridged 2 channles to make a mono channel which is now showing each channel 2ohm, im guessing it's a dual 2ohm voice coil config and not a 4ohm dvc, this means you can wire the sub in either parrel or series. Wiring in series will show the amp 4ohm, wiring in parrel will show the amp 1ohm which in turn will show each channel a 0.5ohm load and unless it's a VERY expensive amp will not be able to take this load and get hot and release the magic smoke.
So asumming ur sub is a 2ohm dvc you need to wire the - of one side of the sub to the + of the other, u then wire the 1st side + to the amps + and the other sides - to the amps -, showing the amp a 4ohm load. :wink:
So asumming ur sub is a 2ohm dvc you need to wire the - of one side of the sub to the + of the other, u then wire the 1st side + to the amps + and the other sides - to the amps -, showing the amp a 4ohm load. :wink:
#3
Posted 13 September 2005 - 02:33 PM
its a dual 4ohm! still don't get what you mean?
#4
Posted 13 September 2005 - 02:36 PM
#5
Posted 13 September 2005 - 07:22 PM
i don't think it can't be done then, it can either be wired to show that amp 2ohm or 8ohm, and because it's bridged into a mono channel it will show each channel a 1ohm final load which unless it's a good amp probably won't take and destroy it.
#6
Posted 13 September 2005 - 10:31 PM
got this...cant get my head around it
#7
Posted 13 September 2005 - 10:59 PM
yeah the one i was trying to explain was the one 2nd top on the left, the top 4 pics show wiring in series and parrell for d2ohm vc subs showing there final load, the bottom 4 show the d4ohm vc subs which is what uv'e got, note that the only way you can show your amp a 4ohm load with that dvc config is if you get another d4vc sub and wire it as showen in the bottom right picture.
#8
Posted 14 September 2005 - 12:57 PM
Hi screetch,
Hope that helps, if you have any questions you can email me before 5 and ill answer them for you.
Hope that helps, if you have any questions you can email me before 5 and ill answer them for you.
#9
Posted 14 September 2005 - 02:50 PM
think of it as christmas tree lights
tree lights are wired in series
power goes from the plug to each bulb in turn and then back to the plug
this is why if a bulb goes all the bulbs go out , as the electricity has no way of reaching the other bulbs
but if you look at each bulb they are only rated at 12 volts and you have just pluged them in to 240 volts
the reason they dont go bang is the resistance of all the bulbs add up to the same as 1 240 volt bulb
your house lights are wired in parrel the live and neutral both go to a light and then off to the next one
so if one bulb goes the rest keep working as all the bulbs have a live and a neutral to make them work
hope this helps as some times its easyer looking at things a diferent way
tree lights are wired in series
power goes from the plug to each bulb in turn and then back to the plug
this is why if a bulb goes all the bulbs go out , as the electricity has no way of reaching the other bulbs
but if you look at each bulb they are only rated at 12 volts and you have just pluged them in to 240 volts
the reason they dont go bang is the resistance of all the bulbs add up to the same as 1 240 volt bulb
your house lights are wired in parrel the live and neutral both go to a light and then off to the next one
so if one bulb goes the rest keep working as all the bulbs have a live and a neutral to make them work
hope this helps as some times its easyer looking at things a diferent way
#10
Posted 14 September 2005 - 04:31 PM
Thanks for that...Im an electriction :tongue:
Right, i'v done it, and i'm not satisfied, (makes a change) should a 10" dvc *yellow human water* all over a 12" svc?
the 10" is 600w max = 300wrms
the 12" was 600wmax = 300wrms
could it just be in need of a good set up?
Right, i'v done it, and i'm not satisfied, (makes a change) should a 10" dvc *yellow human water* all over a 12" svc?
the 10" is 600w max = 300wrms
the 12" was 600wmax = 300wrms
could it just be in need of a good set up?
#11
Posted 14 September 2005 - 04:33 PM
me mate who can set up went on holiday today!!

#12
Posted 14 September 2005 - 07:29 PM
dude if you wired that sub to the amp bridged it will break very fast unless 1ohm stable, either that or you've wired it to show 8ohm which will half the power, which may explain why your not happy with it. so you might aswell run it of one channel at 2ohm and get more power output and have another free channel.
Also dvc and svc won't make any difference in perfomance. all they do it for is so you have more options for wiring the amp up over a svc config that is why quad voice coils are also becoming quite popular now due to the fact that they can be very effectivey matched to the amp, for maximum output.
Also dvc and svc won't make any difference in perfomance. all they do it for is so you have more options for wiring the amp up over a svc config that is why quad voice coils are also becoming quite popular now due to the fact that they can be very effectivey matched to the amp, for maximum output.
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