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Fast Road City E


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#61 jaydee

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Posted 04 July 2009 - 11:04 AM

Finally got the pictures uploaded of the free head i got from my dad's mate:
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You're missing some rubber seals also..
I got one of these in my shed, its an old austin head, from the 80ies i think..anyway u can send the head to a manifacturer as refund for a newly built head =)

#62 AndrewJ530

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Posted 04 July 2009 - 07:29 PM

You're missing some rubber seals also..
I got one of these in my shed, its an old austin head, from the 80ies i think..anyway u can send the head to a manifacturer as refund for a newly built head =)


Do you men valve stem oil seals? Think they only have them on the inlets due to gases coming up the valve on the exhaust and down on the inlets.

What do you mean a manufacturer? Do you mean like a surcharge for a new head?

Cheers,

Andrew

#63 jaydee

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Posted 05 July 2009 - 12:07 PM

Exactly what i mean, u can send that head to manifactured as exchange basis for an upgraded one, and no, you need oil steals on either inlet and exhaust or you'll have burning oil issues ..lol

Edited by jaydee, 05 July 2009 - 12:08 PM.


#64 Retro_10s

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Posted 05 July 2009 - 12:26 PM

you need oil seals on either inlet and exhaust or you'll have burning oil issues ..lol


They really are only needed on the Inlets and this is how they left the factory - However some people (myself included) add them to every single valve for peace of mind - even though the ones on the exhaust valves will simply go brittle from the heat and stop sealing.

That new head looks pretty tatty, especially around the combustion chambers on number 2 - I would definatley give it s good skim,.. or get rid of it on an exachange basis.

#65 AndrewJ530

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Posted 05 July 2009 - 03:05 PM

you need oil seals on either inlet and exhaust or you'll have burning oil issues ..lol


They really are only needed on the Inlets and this is how they left the factory - However some people (myself included) add them to every single valve for peace of mind - even though the ones on the exhaust valves will simply go brittle from the heat and stop sealing.

That new head looks pretty tatty, especially around the combustion chambers on number 2 - I would definatley give it s good skim,.. or get rid of it on an exachange basis.


Exactly what i thought, my dad said you don't really need them on the exhausts so i'll probably just leave them off.

Aye, i've been down to the motor factors and they said i should have it crack tested before i do any work on it. Not worth doing anything to it if it's cracked. So i might take it down this week and have it tested and see where we can go from there.

If it's okay i'll get some new seats and a skim done to it. Probably get the inlets recut aswell. After that, i'll do some porting work on it :D.

Cheers,

Andrew

#66 AndrewJ530

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Posted 05 July 2009 - 09:54 PM

Well i got my twin carbs today. They aren't in the greatest shape and they don't fit the manifold :thumbsup:. But nevermind, i'm sure i'll make them work.

Here's the pictures:

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One of the faces of the carb mouth's is pretty pitted:

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Don't know what i'm going to do with it :dontgetit:. Might have to give it a rub down and hope the gasket seals it >_<.

The othe one looks fine though:

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However this carb sticks on full opening. It's bent on the inside somewhere so it's sticking to the dash pot :(.

This is where the carbs don't fit the manifold:

Posted Image.

This manifold has 12g299 stamped on it:

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My dad said he thinks it's off a twin hs4 set. Does anyone know where this manifold is from?

This is the inside of the float chambers:

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This one's needle was stuck and the other didn't even have a needle in it :o.

So not all good news but still i've got a set and it's a starting point.

Cheers,

Andrew

#67 mini_mad69

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Posted 05 July 2009 - 10:48 PM

Why dont you just cut the studs down?






Ben

#68 AndrewJ530

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Posted 06 July 2009 - 07:43 AM

Just done some research and the angle of the manifold will make the bottom of the jet's touch the bulkhead. Going to have to be an ebay job.

Andrew

#69 Fire_monkey

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Posted 06 July 2009 - 02:16 PM

go for a webber man!!! >_<

#70 jaydee

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Posted 06 July 2009 - 03:53 PM

My dad said he thinks it's off a twin hs4 set. Does anyone know where this manifold is from?

Its from a sprite or a midget with twin hs4.

#71 AndrewJ530

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Posted 06 July 2009 - 06:59 PM

go for a webber man!!! :P


Lol haha that maybe on the cards for the engine upgrade next year :thumbsup:.

My dad said he thinks it's off a twin hs4 set. Does anyone know where this manifold is from?

Its from a sprite or a midget with twin hs4.


Aye, not good. Going to see if i can sell it because it's no use to me lol.

#72 AndrewJ530

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Posted 11 July 2009 - 04:37 PM

So i've been stripping down the twin carbs i bought and can't get the seat out for the float needle. Does anyone have any tips for getting these out? I was going to buy the rebuild kit from minispares which has new seats and float needles.

I'm still unsure as to whether to use the carbs though. One of them sticks which i think is because of a bent slider guide (if that's what the bit is called inside the dashpot). I think the body where the spindle sits is okay and it's just the spindle that is worn but i still need to get my dad to have a look and check the body out.

Might not be much progress over the next 3 or 4 weeks due to my dad going away. Also i need a decent tool to do some head work for my new cylinder head because the drill i was using just isn't powerful enough. Took me ages to grind even one chamber out and it's still not finished :). Going to ask howard at work to see if he has any decent grinding tools.

Cheers,

Andrew

#73 AndrewJ530

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Posted 13 July 2009 - 04:53 PM

Update:

Just checked my oil and it is passed the min mark :S lol. Oh well, now i know to check my oil more often :D.

Going to give it a change this week anyway. Going to order the filter and i've already got some oil (which i'll top up with tonight) then i've done my first oil change. Some of the loss could be due to the head gasket change aswell because i didn't put any in after the change.

Need to check the water aswell but i'll do that tonight when it's cooled down.

How much oil does a typical mini engine consume on a change? I've only got 1 tin of the halfords 20/50 mineral oil and i'm wondering whether this will be enough for the top up tonight and a full oil change later in the week?

Thanks,

Andrew

#74 Fire_monkey

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Posted 13 July 2009 - 08:10 PM

you need about 5L so the whole tin of 20W50 should do you, so yer i would just wait it out and do a full change

Edited by Fire_monkey, 13 July 2009 - 08:11 PM.


#75 AndrewJ530

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Posted 13 July 2009 - 08:21 PM

Just topped it up now and think i have used quarter-third of the tin. Looks like i'll have to get another one. Nevermind, it runs a lot quiter and the gear changes are slicker now which is gooood >_<. Going to wait till i get paid then get the parts (get paid next friday so it's no great shakes to wait :-).

I really didn't think it would use this much oil this wuickly, but then again i have done a head gasket change and a few hundred miles so i should have known really lol.




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