Just brought one of these, seems to get good reviews, anyway just adjusted my front tracking, very easy to do .
Out of curiosity thought I'd try it on the back wheels, it shows to much tow in, but I'm just wondered if they are suitable for adjusting the rear tow in ??
I know there is supposed to be some tow in ??

Gunsons Trakrite
Started by
lrostoke
, Jun 20 2009 04:02 PM
5 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 20 June 2009 - 04:02 PM
#2
Posted 21 June 2009 - 06:14 AM
How does this type work ? I assume that it fits on the wheel it self ?? in which case what is there to stop you from using it on the rear ? of course you would need to have adjustable rear tracking on your car 
Just a note though..... ensure that your starting point is used as your datum point and any changes are written down so that you can return it to that point, which I assume currently works

Just a note though..... ensure that your starting point is used as your datum point and any changes are written down so that you can return it to that point, which I assume currently works

#3
Posted 21 June 2009 - 07:13 AM
No, a Trackrite is a flat thing that you drive over. A sliding disc is rotated as the wheel passes over, giving the reading.
These things run on the assumption that the car is square and doesnt "crab" at all, which can be quite common on minis.
These things run on the assumption that the car is square and doesnt "crab" at all, which can be quite common on minis.
#4
Posted 21 June 2009 - 08:43 AM
Yep exactly that a drive over device, mine never seemed to crab, so I'm only assuming its square.
One thing that puzzles me is that the device instructions state to adjust untill each wheel reads zero on the scale (it as an OK point)
The scale shows % of toe in or toe out, but I assume it works on zero because you are setting the tracking dynamically (moving) not static !!
Anybody else used one, did you use the OK setting or adjust to something else.
One thing that puzzles me is that the device instructions state to adjust untill each wheel reads zero on the scale (it as an OK point)
The scale shows % of toe in or toe out, but I assume it works on zero because you are setting the tracking dynamically (moving) not static !!
Anybody else used one, did you use the OK setting or adjust to something else.
#5
Posted 21 June 2009 - 04:12 PM
The rear should toe-in 1/8".
You can adjust this by adding thin steel shim plates between the radius arm brackets if it's toeing-in too much, or filing the holes where the radius arm mounting pins go through the brackets and welding large 'penny' washers onto the brackets when the toe-in is correct. obviously this must be done accurately, but if the car is 'crabbing' using a different shim thickness or amount of filing on different sides will correct it.
Measure carefully & measure at least twice.
You can adjust this by adding thin steel shim plates between the radius arm brackets if it's toeing-in too much, or filing the holes where the radius arm mounting pins go through the brackets and welding large 'penny' washers onto the brackets when the toe-in is correct. obviously this must be done accurately, but if the car is 'crabbing' using a different shim thickness or amount of filing on different sides will correct it.
Measure carefully & measure at least twice.
#6
Posted 22 June 2009 - 10:32 AM
IMHO that is far to much (yes i know its the standard value, but its a lot of toe in...)The rear should toe-in 1/8".
Note that rear toe must be set and measured on the individual wheels... the advise above referes to measureing the total toe.
If the car is crabbing the subframe needs to be re-positioned, not the wheels.
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