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Mix And Match Clutches!


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#1 smj

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 07:04 PM

Hi, I have been building up a 1098cc engine pre A+ but i am using a newer gearbox from an A+ engine, the transfer case of the A+ is being used, along with the flywheel and clutch assembly, unfortunately neither of the donor engines or their parts included a slave cylinder, although the clutch/flywheel cover i am using does have a clutch arm, question is are are clutch slave cylinders the same, and will the parts i have put together work together??????

#2 liirge

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 07:56 PM

The transfer case will have a different Size hole for the Idler gear bearing, make sure you check this.

#3 Ethel

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 08:09 PM

The cylinders are the same bore & the verto seems to be the same casting as the pre verto metro slave so I'll say yes, though I think others may say no. Try it & see.

#4 smj

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 08:40 PM

i have changed the idler gear for the a+ one, the transfer case is all bolted up and just fitted clutch and flywheel assembly, all appears to be in good health, the head isn't on and when i turn the engine over by the crank pulley by hand nothing appears to be amiss, very crude explaination of whether its wrong or right, but nothing is crunching, crashing banging sqeaking or seized up to now!, what has surprised me, and again this is idiot talk, but i had a closed haynes manual sat on top of the block, when i rotated the engine by hand i couldn't believe the resistance on the pulley caused by the suction of the manual as the pistons went down!!!

#5 bmcecosse

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 08:45 PM

You will also need to match the starter to the flywheel - so pre-verto flywheel = inertia starter, verto flywheel = pre-engaged starter.

#6 smj

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 08:52 PM

this is where it all goes wrong for me and i need your help!!!, my clutch assembly is from an A+ engine, it consists of a pressure plate?(three little lugs big hole!) the clutch plate(the one with the friction material and the splines!!), the flywheel(big heavy bit!!!) and the diaphragm plate(roughly triangular plate that bolts through the flywheel onto the pressure plate, and picks up on the straps connected to the flywheel!!!!!), is this verto, or non verto???

#7 bmcecosse

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 09:35 PM

Sounds like pre-verto, but would be from an A engine, not A+.

#8 Ethel

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 09:46 PM

There were A plusses that weren't verto. The obvious difference is that the friction 'n pressure plates are on the engine side of the pre verto flywheel but outboard on the Verto.

Either clutch fits but you can't mix bits between them.

#9 smj

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 08:25 AM

thanks for that, its an A+ engine with a pre verto clutch setup, so which starter do i need to source?????

#10 Ethel

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 08:45 AM

Most likely inertia, you can count the teeth to be sure.

Or look at their profile:

Pre engaged engage from the motor side, inertias from the opposite side of the fly; the teeth are chamfered on the engagement side. Getting the starter ring swapped is also an option.

NOTE; It is entirely feasible to use the pre-Verto flywheel and clutch assembly with the later pre-engaged (integral solenoid) type starter motor. The best way to accomplish satisfactory fitment is to fit the narrow ring gear of either the Verto flywheel (part no. PSF10003, 129 teeth). However, the standard pre-Verto ring gears (107 teeth) will also work OK with the pre-engaged starter, albeit somewhat noisily that will shorten ring gear and starter bendix life. Where the standard, wide ring gear (0.50-in wide) is fitted, a 0.125-in spacer MUST be fitted between the starter and the transfer gear case to prevent the starter bendix from being permanently engaged. Washers to the value of 0.125-in will be Ok for a short period, a proper, full spacer plate duplicating the starter mounting plate is necessary to ensure long life of the starter. Failure to do this will cause extensive damage to ring gear and starter at the least. The thin ring gear (0.345-in wide, part no.12G2613) such as used on the ultra light and steel lightweight flywheels is used, no spacers are required.

#11 smj

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 04:10 PM

thanks, the engine currently in the car is a 1275 auto from 1993 on an L reg, I work for a laser cutting company so the spacer option would be best for me and keep my starter as the wiring matches the car

#12 Cooperman

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 04:15 PM

If you run a pre-engaged starter with a pre-Verto starter ring, you get lots of iron filings in the flywheel casing, and vice-versa!. In the aircraft industry (and elsewhere) it is called 'graunching'!

#13 Ethel

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 04:15 PM

I think the spacer is only required if you're using the wrong ring gear. The best option is to use the right ring gear for the starter.




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