Cheers for the advice on removing the stubborn nut, I used some heat from a blow lamp and they both came off lovely. Just fitted the new ones - how far do I thread them on?
Before I started the job, when the steering wheel was straight, the driver side wheel was straight looking at it from the front, but the passenger wheel pointed quite a bit out away from the car. My lovely wife, who, and no disrespect has no idea about mechanics, noticed it was out a lot.
I am going to get the suspension etc set up correctly as I have replaced every single front suspension compenentm apart from the tap arm where everying on it has been replaced.
The Haynes manual says to screw it on as far as the old one! What if it was a new rack though?

Track Rod End
Started by
maccers
, Jul 05 2009 06:36 PM
4 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 05 July 2009 - 06:36 PM
#2
Posted 05 July 2009 - 06:49 PM
I just fitted one new track rod end to a car. The new rod was 0.11" shorter than the old one. When I removed the old one I counted the number of turns from the original position until it came off. Then I unscrewed the lock nut by 0.11" and screwed the new end on until it just touched. That will be fine until it goes for tracking. Don't forget to tighten the locknuts.
Set it as straight as you can by eye, don't worry about steering wheel position, but make sure each end is screwed on the same number of turns. It will be at least 8 in my experience. Then drive it slowly to a tracking place, like the local tyre shop and ask them to track it so that the steering wheel is central. It'll be fine then.
Set it as straight as you can by eye, don't worry about steering wheel position, but make sure each end is screwed on the same number of turns. It will be at least 8 in my experience. Then drive it slowly to a tracking place, like the local tyre shop and ask them to track it so that the steering wheel is central. It'll be fine then.
#3
Posted 05 July 2009 - 06:49 PM
I just fitted one new track rod end to a car. The new rod was 0.11" shorter than the old one. When I removed the old one I counted the number of turns from the original position until it came off. Then I unscrewed the lock nut by 0.11" and screwed the new end on until it just touched. That will be fine until it goes for tracking. Don't forget to tighten the locknuts.
Set it as straight as you can by eye, don't worry about steering wheel position, but make sure each end is screwed on the same number of turns. It will be at least 8 in my experience. Then drive it slowly to a tracking place, like the local tyre shop and ask them to track it so that the steering wheel is central. It'll be fine then.
Set it as straight as you can by eye, don't worry about steering wheel position, but make sure each end is screwed on the same number of turns. It will be at least 8 in my experience. Then drive it slowly to a tracking place, like the local tyre shop and ask them to track it so that the steering wheel is central. It'll be fine then.
#4
Posted 05 July 2009 - 06:50 PM
Both sides want to be screwed on by an equal amount, roughly 1/2 an inch each side minimum. Other than that centre the steering (1/2 way between full lock to each side) and adjust the track rods so the wheels are pointing straight ahead. Don't drive too far until the tracking has been properly set up.
#5
Posted 05 July 2009 - 07:15 PM
Normally - you would screw the new TREs on the same distance as the old ones - ie, up to the lock nuts. However since you noticed the tracking wasn't correct before - all you can do for now is to screw them both on the SAME distance - set the car down - use a tape measure (or just your eye initially) to get an estimate - then adjust them both equal amounts - until you have the wheels pretty much parallel. You can then either have them set properly at a garage - or make a simple tracking gauge - mine is made of Dexion angle - and set them up properly that way - you are looking for 1/16" toe OUT.
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