9 replies to this topic

[KRM_Simon]

I am posting because I and probably a few others on here would like to know about getting suspension set up to work with 13 inch wheels, not just about setting up but component choice as well.
I'm not interested in the 10's are better than 13's argument, it has been covered many times and people will never agree. I have 13's and I intend to make them work.

So, ill start out with what I have and where I want to end up:
I have a set of 7x13 superlites, with Pirelli P5000 tyres 175/50/R13. A set of adjustable spax dampers and adjustable cones, however running and normal ride height.
I'd like to end up with a mini that handles very well, well suited to country roads, lots of corners etc etc.

Basics, component choice:
Been looking around at what’s for sale, and I must say I don’t know where to start.
Lower suspension arms, I could go for fixed ones at -0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0 or 2.5, or adjustables, common sense says that with fixed ones there is less to go wrong/break, but as I have no idea what angle I require would adjustable be better?
Tie bars, adjustable yes, but heavy duty? Rose jointed? Are these worth the extra money? Are they needed?
Poly bushes would have thought this was a cert but...
Rear Camber/tracking brackets, again fixed or adjustable, is one better than the other?
Roll bars, front/rear, hadn’t intended using these but is there anything to be said for and against them?

Any bits I’ll need but I've missed?


Setting up:
Right I’ve read bits and pieces about doing it yourself using elastic, string, welded poles, but chances are ill get a pro to do it more accurately. But what do I need to know before I get there such as angles for camber, castor, toe in, are there any good numbers to start at for 13's then adjust from there to suit personal preference, how it feels etc?

Any other bits and pieces I should know before I buy / take to a garage for setting up?



Sorry for the incredibly long post but if you can answer it would be extremely useful to me and hopefully others.


Cheers
Simon

[bmcecosse]

For 13" wheels you need to keep it high to prevent rubbing/binding - so you will always be limited. Best to keep the fat tyres pretty much upright - so very little negative camber (ie 0.5) at the front and just vertical at the back. Set the rear wheels parallel and the fronts 1/16" toe-out. Castor - the steering will likely be quite heavy anyway with these tyres - so probably best to leave it as standard! Putting a little negative on the front will automatically pull a little more castor with standard tie-bars.

[KRM_Simon]

Thanks for the setup advice.
anything on component choice?

Simon

[Wil_h]

The above seems reasonable advice, but don't be shy on lowering the car. The 13s aren't that nuch bigger circumferance than 12s.

[maph2]

The above seems reasonable advice, but don't be shy on lowering the car. The 13s aren't that nuch bigger circumferance than 12s.

what he said /\.....no problems minor lowering on 13's....check here for some starter settings:

http://www.16vminicl...ight=suspension

i'd go with adjustable tie rods, adjustable bottom arms, and rear adjustable camber /toe brackets. No mini is the same so fully adjustable is the way

[mike.]

The threads on the 16vforum aren't great really. Everybody has diffeferent opinion and just contradicts eachother.

Its all good saying 'try a few different set ups and see what feels best' But chances are, you average guy driving on the roads won't be able to tell the difference between the settings.

Unless your building a track car i think all these adjustables are a little OTT.

Sure it might handle slightly better or you might be able to go round a bend a couple of mph faster, but unless your trying to shave the last milliseconds off a laptime - Is it really worth the cost and effort?

I've got 13s on my car, which is lowered slightly on hilos and has Gaz adjustable dampers all round, that are set pretty firm, and its perfect. I've got much more grip that i had with my 12x6's (admittedly that could be down to tyres) and the car feels very stable through fast bends, with very little roll. What more do you need on the road?

[rozzer1275]

as above

lower a bit + good dampers

I would go for solid mounted front sub + rose jointed lower arms and tie bars (with boots), noisy and bangs on the bumps but the steering is sharper, esp under breaking.

at the rear, adjustable rear camber and track and make sure rear arms are in good nick.

[maph2]

The threads on the 16vforum aren't great really. Everybody has diffeferent opinion and just contradicts eachother.

Its all good saying 'try a few different set ups and see what feels best' But chances are, you average guy driving on the roads won't be able to tell the difference between the settings.

Unless your building a track car i think all these adjustables are a little OTT.

Sure it might handle slightly better or you might be able to go round a bend a couple of mph faster, but unless your trying to shave the last milliseconds off a laptime - Is it really worth the cost and effort?

I've got 13s on my car, which is lowered slightly on hilos and has Gaz adjustable dampers all round, that are set pretty firm, and its perfect. I've got much more grip that i had with my 12x6's (admittedly that could be down to tyres) and the car feels very stable through fast bends, with very little roll. What more do you need on the road?

you need to try a mini thats been set up correctly then. getting the car set up for 13's CORRECTLY will improve handling but also assist wheel bearing and ball joint longevity. having driven a sportspack when they first came out and then the same car that had been fully adjusted - you can tell the difference.

to the original poster, don't bother with ARB's and also, don't bother poly bushing the rear subframe. minis handle better with a little compliance at the rear -go with minispares uprated rubber bushes which have a harder shore rating.

your choice at the end of the day.

[KRM_Simon]

Thanks all for your replies. Have also spent a bit of time reading on the 16v forum as suggested by maph, however they all seem to be running far more aggressive angles than suggested by bmcecosse. Would this be because they are running more powerful engines, Hondas etc or just because that is their preference?
At this moment in time adjustable seems to be the way to go as there is so much variation in what people recommend, but on the other hand Mike raises a good point of is it worth the extra for my usage (1 or 2 track days a year but mainly weekend fun on the roads).
Are heavy duty parts worth the extra or is that only really if you’re sticking ridiculously high powered engines in?


On another note would anyone recommend changing to 195/45R13s for improved handling?

Thanks
Simon

[Wil_h]

The biggest improvement you'll get with 13s is by only having 6" ones. In fact a 6x13 wheel is second only to 6x12 IMO. And there are more tyre options for the 13s too.