
overheating issues-1380-'super' 2core rad
Started by
Prawn
, Sep 19 2005 05:48 PM
9 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 19 September 2005 - 05:48 PM
evening guys, im in need of help! and pretty fast!
my mini runs TOO hot, im not saying it overheats, because i just dont let it run long enough to overheat....
ive currently got a minispares 'super' 2core rad, which i bought 18months ago, but didnt use due to a change of plans, ive now fitted it to my 1380, and the problem have begun....
im runing a 1380, mspd trackday cam, stage 3 head, 1.5:1 roller tips, HIF44, etc etc etc..........
ive also got a kenlowe electric fan on teh back of the, wired up to a switch, although i have it on permanently, i also have to run with the heater fan on consantly, and ive taken the heater on/off tap out completely!
on a trip up to bristol last week, if i attempted to cruise at 70 the nedle would creep up until it almost reached the red, at which point id have to stop for 10mins to let it cool down....
this is WITHOT the mechanical fan, but even with it it made no real difference.
around town itll sit on normal, provided i keepo teh kenlowe and the heater on constantly, if i turn one of them off it heats up
ive sinse read that minispares stopped doing teh super 2 core rads son after i bought it, is this true? was it ebcause tehyre rubbish?
what rad would you all reccomend for my engine? im after MAXIMUM cooling capacity, my driving is half city and half open roads....and i will be running with kenlowe fan, with or without teh mechanical one as well
its been suggested that i get a 4 core
where from? who makes the best? and how much is it going to cost me?
i need to knwo tonight REALLY, as ive got to order it and get it fitted in time for the castle combe trackday on saturday!
thanks in advance....
help me! im desperate!
Nick
my mini runs TOO hot, im not saying it overheats, because i just dont let it run long enough to overheat....
ive currently got a minispares 'super' 2core rad, which i bought 18months ago, but didnt use due to a change of plans, ive now fitted it to my 1380, and the problem have begun....
im runing a 1380, mspd trackday cam, stage 3 head, 1.5:1 roller tips, HIF44, etc etc etc..........
ive also got a kenlowe electric fan on teh back of the, wired up to a switch, although i have it on permanently, i also have to run with the heater fan on consantly, and ive taken the heater on/off tap out completely!
on a trip up to bristol last week, if i attempted to cruise at 70 the nedle would creep up until it almost reached the red, at which point id have to stop for 10mins to let it cool down....
this is WITHOT the mechanical fan, but even with it it made no real difference.
around town itll sit on normal, provided i keepo teh kenlowe and the heater on constantly, if i turn one of them off it heats up
ive sinse read that minispares stopped doing teh super 2 core rads son after i bought it, is this true? was it ebcause tehyre rubbish?
what rad would you all reccomend for my engine? im after MAXIMUM cooling capacity, my driving is half city and half open roads....and i will be running with kenlowe fan, with or without teh mechanical one as well
its been suggested that i get a 4 core
where from? who makes the best? and how much is it going to cost me?
i need to knwo tonight REALLY, as ive got to order it and get it fitted in time for the castle combe trackday on saturday!
thanks in advance....
help me! im desperate!
Nick
#2
Posted 19 September 2005 - 06:00 PM
I heard alot of people say the MiniSpares 2 core was REALLY good, the 4 core isn't as robust but should be ok if you don't go near gravelly roads!
Have you tried the small things first? Like changing the temp sender?
Have you tried the small things first? Like changing the temp sender?
#3
Posted 19 September 2005 - 06:28 PM
Have you removed the bypass hose and if so have you drilled the thermostat to keep the circulation round the block and head
#4
Posted 19 September 2005 - 06:35 PM
minis 84 mini runs just below the red contantly thats with a MSPD track day cam in too! 2 core rads will proved more cooling than 4 core, so you dont want to move down. What fan are you using? and do you have a thermostat or a blanking sleve? I find my 1330 runs at around 88degrees when on motorways and around 95 degrees on the nurburgring reaching just over 100 when sat left to cool. This is on a MSPD 1330 with phase 2 cam and std rad. To be safe I would sugest a fairly strong water/coolant mix of advanced type coolant just to prevent boiling if a quick solution cannot be found
#5
Posted 19 September 2005 - 07:47 PM
I'll start at the begining check the alternator is not overchargeing giving a false temp ready, best way is to get a proper capilery temp gauge and fit this, these tell the truth.
As for rads I will always stick to my orginal rover 3 core rad wherever possible these work the best from experiance. unless you have truck loads to spend on other types of rad.
also most garage's nopw have temp checking tools hand held lazer gaget so get your car check out with one of these little gagets (i have one its works real well)
dave
As for rads I will always stick to my orginal rover 3 core rad wherever possible these work the best from experiance. unless you have truck loads to spend on other types of rad.
also most garage's nopw have temp checking tools hand held lazer gaget so get your car check out with one of these little gagets (i have one its works real well)
dave
#6
Posted 19 September 2005 - 09:01 PM
its got no bypass at all, and im running a blanking sleave instead of a stat.
im not running a mechanical fan at all, but a kenlowe electric one on teh back of teh rad, permanently on, ive changed the temp sender and hooked it up to a capillary guage.... its still running hot, far hotter than id like....
according to teh yellow bible the optimum temp for performance is 60degrees!
strange what you say about teh 2 core.... ive got two of them, 1 minispares super 2core, and one with plastic chambers.... unsure on the make!
neither keep it cool enough!
Grrrrrrrrr.......!!!!!!!!!11 this is EVER so annoying
im not running a mechanical fan at all, but a kenlowe electric one on teh back of teh rad, permanently on, ive changed the temp sender and hooked it up to a capillary guage.... its still running hot, far hotter than id like....
according to teh yellow bible the optimum temp for performance is 60degrees!
strange what you say about teh 2 core.... ive got two of them, 1 minispares super 2core, and one with plastic chambers.... unsure on the make!
neither keep it cool enough!
Grrrrrrrrr.......!!!!!!!!!11 this is EVER so annoying

#7
Posted 19 September 2005 - 09:22 PM
60 degrees well i would be happy if its running under 80. is the kenlow running the right way as in pulling the air out? and is it touching the fan.
the other rad u have throuw it as far as u can down the road its poo.
Get a proper copper top and bottom Gen rad this normally keeps motors cool (used to run one on my 1430 no probs and me 1380's all day)
dave
the other rad u have throuw it as far as u can down the road its poo.
Get a proper copper top and bottom Gen rad this normally keeps motors cool (used to run one on my 1430 no probs and me 1380's all day)
dave
#8
Posted 19 September 2005 - 10:17 PM
I have heard the 60 degrees mentioned from many sources, both in the bible and fron racing tuners..so there is likely to be some truth in it..
I too run a twin core on my 1330 and have no issues with heat, only when I goosed the head gasket, but since switching away from copper to payen not had an issue..
Just a thought but is the electric fan set to suck or blow... I'd have thought that from the outside it would have been better to suck, thus drawing heat from the engine bay rather than pushing hot air in ?? I'd also be putting the fan back onto the pump.
I too run a twin core on my 1330 and have no issues with heat, only when I goosed the head gasket, but since switching away from copper to payen not had an issue..
Just a thought but is the electric fan set to suck or blow... I'd have thought that from the outside it would have been better to suck, thus drawing heat from the engine bay rather than pushing hot air in ?? I'd also be putting the fan back onto the pump.
#9
Posted 20 September 2005 - 08:21 AM
its quite definately sucking it through, as anyone who walks past my nearside front wheel whilst its on gets a burnt leg
ill be putting the fan back onto teh pump this morning, to see if it helps matters AT ALL.
it does seem a bti strange that minispares stopped selling the 4core when their 2core came out, only to start selling the 4core again very quickly, seemingly because the 2core is poo

it does seem a bti strange that minispares stopped selling the 4core when their 2core came out, only to start selling the 4core again very quickly, seemingly because the 2core is poo
#10
Posted 20 September 2005 - 09:19 AM
the 2 core is a great rad, the 1275 in my Clubby would sit in traffic all day long and not go above half in any weather with this rad, and my old Cooper with a breathed on MG Metro engine was the same.
I think my problems stem from the temp gauge, are you sure this isn't your problem? It was a bit of a guess-test, but in Belgium I tested my rad cap for temperature against both madmax's and flappy's, and it seemed cooler, even though the gauge was in the red, and theirs were on halfway-ish. I think my voltage regulator may be on the way out, although the fuel gauge works properly
Get a capillary gauge and wire it up, see what its running at then, its much more reliable. What water pump are you using? And definitely connect the pump driven fan up too, this will make a lot of difference! (oh, and make sure its the right way round, or it was be cancelling out the effects of the kenlowe fan!)
I think my problems stem from the temp gauge, are you sure this isn't your problem? It was a bit of a guess-test, but in Belgium I tested my rad cap for temperature against both madmax's and flappy's, and it seemed cooler, even though the gauge was in the red, and theirs were on halfway-ish. I think my voltage regulator may be on the way out, although the fuel gauge works properly

Get a capillary gauge and wire it up, see what its running at then, its much more reliable. What water pump are you using? And definitely connect the pump driven fan up too, this will make a lot of difference! (oh, and make sure its the right way round, or it was be cancelling out the effects of the kenlowe fan!)
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