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Bottom Arm Removal- Arrghh!


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#1 Dynamodoug

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 05:59 PM

Hi guys- im trying to remove the bottom arm and pivot shaft so that i can add negative camber bottom arms but its proving more difficult than it really should be. Basically, ive got the car in the state you see below and am trying to follow some rather vague instructions from Mini Magazine. Ive removed the front tie-bar but im having great difficulty using a fork-type ball joint separator to force apart the lower swivel joint. The only thing i can think of is to compress the cone and get the top-arm undone so theres less pressure pushing down. Good idea? Any advice dutifully accepted!

Thanks

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#2 rick.spi

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 06:14 PM

dont think thatl make a difference... i used a screw type ball joint splitter to get mine off but was still a *woman of ill repute*, and had to use a hammer aswell... got a bigger hamer? :- lol

#3 Surfbluegarage

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 06:18 PM

yeah the screw type ones are pretty good to use. i use the fork one with mine put the nut back onto the threads and whack seven shades of *poo poo* out of it upwards..lol

#4 robze

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 06:39 PM

oops wrong joint :-

Edited by robze, 26 July 2009 - 08:26 PM.


#5 samsfern

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 06:56 PM

do it properly, use a ball joint splitter!!

#6 stormintrooper

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 06:59 PM

or you will end up with knackered threads on your ball joints like i did :-

#7 adcyork

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 08:18 PM

Wind the screw type seperator on as much as you physically can then put the hut on the ball joint thread a bit and give it a whack

#8 bmcecosse

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 08:24 PM

ONLY ever use a scew type splitter - wind it on tight as possible - then whack the head of the splitter bolt - NOT the ball joint. Anyone 'hammering' ball joints to get them off - should be sacked for incompetence and unsafe working! You may damge the suspension components - which may break some time later and cause an accident! Don't do it!

#9 Dynamodoug

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 08:28 PM

Ive been using the fork type splitter but ive got the screw variety also. Seemed easier with the fork type although im still having no luck. Seriously- how many times are you supposed to whack the fork?! Its just not happening. Very frustrating when your keen to do as much as you can in the summer months!

#10 bmcecosse

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 08:46 PM

Screw it up TIGHT - then whack the head of the splitter bolt with a HEAVY hammer - then tighten some more etc etc. It comes off with quite a bang. In extremis - I have ben forced to use heat on the lower arm - at the ball joint. In which case - you MUST renew both ball joint and lower arm - which I'm sure you are doing anyway since fitting Neg arms - and it would be crazy to do so without fitting new ball joints anyway!

Edited by bmcecosse, 26 July 2009 - 09:23 PM.


#11 valve bounce

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 09:13 PM

it may sound od but get your jack and a nice piece on wood, then postion the piece of wood under the shock absorber and jack the piece of wood up pushing the top arm and hub up the try using the screw type ball joint seporator and a very large hammer, thats how i did it last time i couldnt get it off. if all else fails try heatin the bottom arm up and put some pain on it with the seporator then hit it just to make sure.

hope it helps rob

#12 rick.spi

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 10:04 PM

sledge hammer :ermm: lol

#13 spennyy2k

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Posted 27 July 2009 - 05:26 AM

put a jack under the drive flange or driveshaft end (careful not to damage any threads) and lift it up taking the weight of the suspension, put a crowbar or similar inbetween the hub and bottom arm and push the arm down, at the same time hit the bottom arm side on where the taper pin goes thru the bottom arm (careful again not to hit the pin) should come apart from there

#14 tadleysimon

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Posted 27 July 2009 - 07:12 PM

theres no need to replace the balljoint if its in good condition,i just fitted adjustable lower arms and kept the balljoints as there perfect. however, the fact that your having so much trouble though means its probaly in bad condition and should probaly be replaced.

#15 pogie

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Posted 28 July 2009 - 09:24 AM

If you are going to use the fork type splitter you will need to put the tie bar back on to stop the hub moving when you hit the splitter. When I use the screw type splitter, I put the nut back on until it is flush with the end of threads on the ball joint to protect them.




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