13 replies to this topic

[TrialsLife]

Hi all,

I need to know if it is possible to fit a remote A Series gearbox, to a A+ Series block. If it is possible, does anyone on here run this set up? Does anyone have problems with it?

The engine could end up putting out around 150bhp with straight cut gears and drops.

I did try to search but its a bit of a weird one.

Cheers,

Kyle.

[Nightrain]

Yep as long as it's not a 3 synchro box it'll fit fine.

[Cooperman]

I've just done another one like that.
You need the pre-A+ primary gear, or straight-cut gear set.
The reason it wouldn;'t work with an early 3-syncro boxd is because the larger big-end caps of the A+ hit the gearbox casing. It can still be fitted, but you have to machine away the 3-syncro casing in several places, which is what I've just done.
If you are going to get c.150 bhp, what is the engine spec? Presumably it's a forced induction unit.
Buy boxes of ear-plugs in bulk, you'll sure need 'em!

[Nightrain]

I've just done another one like that.
You need the pre-A+ primary gear, or straight-cut gear set.

You need the drop gears (primary/idle/input) gears to match the gearbox ! A A+ primary gear WILL NOT fit the A series gearbox......

[Mini Mad Max]

Hi is it possible to fit an 1275 A-series engine to a 998 mini neon gearbox?
Thanks, Max

[bmcecosse]

YES. Again - you need matching drop gears - to suit the larger crank diameter on the 1275, and the gear angle on the 998 box input gears.

[Mini Mad Max]

So how do i do this? Can i match the two sets of helical drop gears i have from the 998 engine and the 1275 engine? or would i have to buy straight cut?
Thanks,
Max

[TrialsLife]

Hi is it possible to fit an 1275 A-series engine to a 998 mini neon gearbox?
Thanks, Max

Sorry, is there any chance you could open your own topic up, so not to confuse this one?

Yep as long as it's not a 3 synchro box it'll fit fine.

Its a 3 syncro, straight cut box. Hmmmm, cheers.

I've just done another one like that.
You need the pre-A+ primary gear, or straight-cut gear set.
The reason it wouldn;'t work with an early 3-syncro boxd is because the larger big-end caps of the A+ hit the gearbox casing. It can still be fitted, but you have to machine away the 3-syncro casing in several places, which is what I've just done.
If you are going to get c.150 bhp, what is the engine spec? Presumably it's a forced induction unit.
Buy boxes of ear-plugs in bulk, you'll sure need 'em!

So I need to retain the pre A+ primary gear, but use A+ drop gears?

So just need to remove material from the sides of the gearbox casing where the big ends would hit?

Yeah its going to be forced incuction, should be fun. Thanks for the advice.

I've just done another one like that.
You need the pre-A+ primary gear, or straight-cut gear set.

You need the drop gears (primary/idle/input) gears to match the gearbox ! A A+ primary gear WILL NOT fit the A series gearbox......

Right o.k, so the A+ primary gear will not fit the A gearbox? Bit confused now.

Thanks for the help so far though guys, it looks like the biggest problem is the transfer gears. Hopefully someone can clear up the confusion ha.

If I manage to get all the knowledge I need, when I come to doing the converison I will write up a guide with pictures (unless one already exists) so that this may not be needed again.

So, question still stands of how to transfer power from the A+ engine, down to the A Series gearbox.

By the sounds of it though, cooperman has already done it, which is where I'm confused.......

[Nightrain]

Its a 3 syncro, straight cut box. Hmmmm, cheers.

So I need to retain the pre A+ primary gear, but use A+ drop gears?

So just need to remove material from the sides of the gearbox casing where the big ends would hit?

Right o.k, so the A+ primary gear will not fit the A gearbox? Bit confused now.

So, question still stands of how to transfer power from the A+ engine, down to the A Series gearbox.

By the sounds of it though, cooperman has already done it, which is where I'm confused.......

Yes as above you need to grind out the the casing to clear the crank.

You need a set of A Series 1275 drop gears, you cant mix and match as A series and A+ have different teeth profiles. Plus the A+ idle gear won't fit the A Series casing.

By far the best way forward for you with any sort of decent power is straight cut, like this. These are timken drops which are the most reliable as they do away with any side loadings.

Attached Files

•  SCAseriesdrops.jpg   20.23K   15 downloads

Edited by Nightrain, 02 August 2009 - 09:50 PM.

[TrialsLife]

Ahh right, cheers for that.

So I need to;

Grind out the casing to clear the crank
Fit A series drop gears to the A+ block

Yeah, I'm definatly going straight cut.

Thanks for the advice, if theres anything else people think I should know, just say.

[Nightrain]

Yep. just to clear it all up the drop gears actually fit the gearbox, crank & first motion shaft. Not the block thats why you always use a set to match the gearbox and not the block.

[TrialsLife]

Yeah, sorry. I knew what I meant, it just came out backwards ha.

Reason for keeping the remote is that I already have straight cut gears in there, and don't fancy buying another set. Plus I love the feel of the remote gearbox, I've got so in tune with it now I would say I'm not far off sequential gear change times, which is nice.

Thanks again,

Kyle.

[Cooperman]

Just as an afterthought, when installing the latest type of straight-cut drop gears, the bearing housing hole in the transfer gear casing may not be the right diameter for the new bearing arrangement. On my '64 car I had to have the transfer gear casing precision bored to take the new idler gear. This has to be done very accurately and I use a local aerospace precision machining company to make sure it was done properly.
It's just something that needs to be checked when going to SC drop gears.
They are so noisy that, in a way, I wish I had not done that. I did it after I stripped the idler gear on a rally, but it was the 31st event the car had done on the original helical drops. The increase in noise means that I have to use ear plugs on any sort of long road drive and I now tend to take the car everywhere by trailer to and from events. However, it doesn't 'arf go!

[rofert]

I have this problem also just did a dry fit of A+ engine (MED1380) to gearbox and number one journal is hitting the casing.

Question is how much do you need to grind away and number 4 is obviously the same, the case already has some marks by number 4 in it where a previous journal has rubbed. Does 2 & 3 give problems also.

If anyone has a picture of the grind would be appreciated as I want to get the engine in ASAP missing driving the mini so much.

thanks Rofert