11 replies to this topic

[MK1]

Model:Cooper Sportpack 1.3i
Year:1999
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible):

Hi there peeps. I have a fairly urgent problem with my Cooper as its about to do a trip around Europe (tuesday) and I need this sorted....or do I? Please try and stay with me here my mechanical knowledge is on building design and not cars! I'm trying!

I have always had a fairly small oil leak where the gear rod/linkage goes into the gearbox housing and this weekend we tried to put this right.

We put a new rubber seal in but it seems to be much much worse than it ever has been before and now its leaking everywhere. A drip of oil is coming out of my car I'd estimate every 10-15 seconds when the engine is warm....and seemingly none at all when its cold. I'm sure it was the right part and all put back in right and tightened. Apart from checking it was the correct part and checking everything is tightened up, is there anything any of you guys can suggest.

Cheers.

Richard.

p.s. its not the car in the Avatar....not even started on that little sod yet.


Any non-standard parts that might be involved with the problem?

My Minis bad attitude.

Edited by MK1, 12 August 2009 - 04:44 PM.

[DrMcNasty]

Could you have left some trace of the previous seal in place when you put the new one in therefore leaving a space to allow the drip?

Could there be dirt / gravel bits in the way?

Nasty

[MK1]

Could you have left some trace of the previous seal in place when you put the new one in therefore leaving a space to allow the drip?

Could there be dirt / gravel bits in the way?

Nasty

Hi Nasty thanks for the quick reply.

The previous seal was in a bit of a state so yea I could easily have left remains of it. Its a right sod to get to actually without a proper ramp.

Thanks

[rasputin22]

If it was me i would drain the engine oil, take the engine out, take off the diff cover and replace the rod seal using one of these

http://www.minispare...=...GE ANTI O...

Then never worry about it again

[Pooky]

If it was me i would drain the engine oil, take the engine out, take off the diff cover and replace the rod seal using one of these

http://www.minispare...y=...GE ANTI O...

Then never worry about it again

Engine out?! Diff cover off?!

As stated in the ms link 'To fit the kit simply remove the old gaiter if fitted and then the old oil seal.Fit the sleeve with the "O"ring fitted and slide over the rod into the gearbox'

All you'll need is the gear linkage roll pin punch to disconnect the linkage and jobs-a-goodun. 15 min job and leak free seal

[DrMcNasty]

It is a 15 minute job, if you can get it on a hoist. Otherwise is is a SOB to do on a jack since you can't get range to swing a hammer, as well as getting the previous 0 ring out.

You may be better to get a seal and just pay a garage the hours labor to hammer them out and change it ... I know that is what I am planning on doing.

[Ethel]

I'm thinking a '91 car will already have the bush 'n boot in that kit. I'm also not clear what you meant by "all put back in right and tightened" as the new seal will just have needed tapping home. Could the seal not be square to the shaft, or either the seal or shaft marked?

I think all you can do is try another seal. Making sure the shaft is smooth, chamfer the edges of the roll pin hole, and find or make up a tool (socket ?) that will tap in the new seal flush with the casting without touching the seal's lip.

[MK1]

I'm thinking a '91 car will already have the bush 'n boot in that kit. I'm also not clear what you meant by "all put back in right and tightened" as the new seal will just have needed tapping home. Could the seal not be square to the shaft, or either the seal or shaft marked?

I think all you can do is try another seal. Making sure the shaft is smooth, chamfer the edges of the roll pin hole, and find or make up a tool (socket ?) that will tap in the new seal flush with the casting without touching the seal's lip.

Sorry yea "all put back in right and tightened" was a poor description and yes I did mean "tapping it home" lol. Apologies.

I'm going to buy another seal and try again. Cheers guys.

[tog77]

one gimick we used to use is remove the seal and spacer,then fit two seals..this will cure it....

tog77

[Ethel]

one gimick we used to use is remove the seal and spacer,then fit two seals..this will cure it....

tog77

It might do in the short term. The metal spacer was added to support the shaft in the centre of the seal to stop it wearing one side if it was off centre - if the spacer or seal is off centre it would make things worse. It used to be a common trick in dealerships to just knock the old seal in and fit the new one on top to make a bit of bonus for doing the job in less than book time. Sometimes oil built up between the two seals 'n pumped the new one out.

[mymini007]

It is a 15 minute job, if you can get it on a hoist. Otherwise is is a SOB to do on a jack since you can't get range to swing a hammer, as well as getting the previous 0 ring out.

You may be better to get a seal and just pay a garage the hours labor to hammer them out and change it ... I know that is what I am planning on doing.

Same problem I am having, but the the engine will be coming out of mine, I am not in a rush, hope you get it sorted.

[Guess-Works.com]

Don't forget the ali/plastic bush became standard fit on minis from the mid 80's so don't go trying and pushing another one in there as it'll not fit, also you'll not get two oil seals in ( which is the old skool fix tog mentions )

The 99% sure ( but temporary ) fix is to remove the seal, squirt in a good spray of oil ( like wd40) and then a bead of RTV silicon, then replace the seal.. Leave to set, this should stop the oil leak, but will not last for ever.