Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Clutch Slave Cylinder Removal Probs


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 KEV@POWARTEK

KEV@POWARTEK

    Mini Mad

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 163 posts
  • Location: Teesside or Hampshire depending on the day

Posted 14 August 2009 - 07:49 PM

Hi, Im havng difficulty removing the pin that the slave cylinder uses to conect to the arm. Ive managed to snap the split pin but its still awkward, any tips?

Taking engine & subframe out and would prefer to leave it coonected if poss.

#2 Cooperman

Cooperman

    Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,283 posts
  • Location: Cambs.
  • Local Club: MCR, HAMOC, Chelmsford M.C.

Posted 14 August 2009 - 09:04 PM

Don't really understand the question.
The clutch slave cylinder does not have a split pin connection. There is a push-rod which goes into the end of the slave cylinder, but it just slides in and is connected to the clutch operating arm at the other end by a clevis pin which, in turn is held in by a spilt pin, but that is on the clutch operating arm, not the slave cylinder.
If you are taking the engine out, you can leave the clutch slave cylinder connected to the master cylinder. Normally when removing the engine, you undo the 2 off bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder onto the transfer case and leave the clutch hydraulics connected. There is no need to undo or remove any split pins to do this.
Are you removing the engine with it still on the gearbox? That is a big job and if you just want the engine out it is easier to take it out through the top and leave the sub-frame in place.

#3 KEV@POWARTEK

KEV@POWARTEK

    Mini Mad

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 163 posts
  • Location: Teesside or Hampshire depending on the day

Posted 14 August 2009 - 09:18 PM

The push-rod pin that goes through the arm and slave cylinder operating arm had a split pin to secure it on the back side of the pin. The slave cylinder itself can be removed off the gearbox casing. I guess I could remove the rubber hose from the back of the cylinder but ideally wanted to not disturb that.

Im removing the engine & box in 1 go, all still attached to the subframe.

Edited by KEV@POWARTEK, 14 August 2009 - 09:20 PM.


#4 Ethel

Ethel

    ..is NOT a girl!

  • TMF Team
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 25,928 posts
  • Local Club: none

Posted 14 August 2009 - 09:39 PM

The push rod isn't connected to the cylinder it just slides in through the boot. Unbolt the slave cylinder and you can lift it clear leaving it still plumbed to the master cylinder.

#5 Cooperman

Cooperman

    Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,283 posts
  • Location: Cambs.
  • Local Club: MCR, HAMOC, Chelmsford M.C.

Posted 14 August 2009 - 09:45 PM

Taking the engine out on it's sub-frame - rather you than me!
It can be a real pig of a job as all the brake, fuel & battery lines have to be disconnected, the gear linkage must be completely removed, the complete exhaust has to come off, the rack has to be disconnected, etc, etc. Then you need to support both bodyshell and sub-frame in order to pull it all clear. I think the last time I removed an engine on its sub-frame was in 1968 and I said then, "never again unless I have no choice".

#6 KEV@POWARTEK

KEV@POWARTEK

    Mini Mad

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 163 posts
  • Location: Teesside or Hampshire depending on the day

Posted 15 August 2009 - 03:06 PM

Thanks Ethel, I will try that.
Cooperman, Ive got everything dissconnected bar the steering knuckle, to be honest, i think its going to be much easier this way as Im doing some bay renovations.

#7 bmcecosse

bmcecosse

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,699 posts
  • Local Club: http://www.srps.org.uk/

Posted 15 August 2009 - 05:17 PM

Remember to take the front dampers off!




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users