8 replies to this topic

[PMM]

Well its typically one of those SPI issue's but I have not got to the nitty gritty yet

While I have a code reader its not for the mini so useless to me unless I can get the cable & flash card.

Also.... I cannot currently get to the ECU as its a Jap. Mini with Aircon and its tocked in behind the Aircon Rad .


-------Problem = High idle after warm up------
Issue existed before I brought Mini - Its drove OK and been faultless but there was always an High Idle after warm up.

Anyway It been Sorned off road for 2 years but I have been running it to keep the fuel/oils rotating while sat in the Garage.

Recently though just before I decided to put in through MOT & put back on road it experienced a CUT out issue ((Not quite sure why))
but I do suspect just a vibration issue have cleaned up connects here and there and it only did it once after a country lane bump.

--------

Replaced vac pipes as they were shot and dis-integrated from being brittle ((As mentioned can't get to ECU)) so can't check for blockage on the ECU itself.

Basically starts ok runs... warms up no apparent fluctuation on temp gauge will idle just over 1K when cold at 1st start and drops to 800 ish after a while but once continually run for say 15mins varying the revs between Idle & 3K it gets to a point of settling back at 1500 rpm

I have tested Intake Air temps sensor (seems to work ok)
I have tested Throttle Position Sensor (seems to work ok - 0.69v at pre-start & 0.39 ish / 0.4v upto 3.97v inline with pedal)
Can't test stepper yet but I think 4v / 180 * 31 = my 0.69v prestart voltage from the TPS when indexed.
No particular large scale seek issues just a capture of the revs sometimes associated the aircon pump clicking in.

---------

Apart from ECU & vac blockage anyone think of anything logical to cause the 1500 rpm idle when the car has got warmed up ?

passed emmisions test ok 0.099 co against 0.2 limit / 71 HC against 200 limit /
Lambda within limits.

I am still thinking ECU and vac a port block needing to be cleared but can't get to it

unless some other sensor can cause it.

....

P.S. Anyone in the Staffordshire area with Cable & flashcard for an ACT 1 willing to lend out for a day let me know.
if push comes to shove I'll brutally break the last bolt holding the ECU in to get it removed.

[Chowen]

Sounds asif i am having the exact same problem as yourself

i have only checked my cables ,pedal and injectors but after warm up and driving,when slowing down to a stop the revs seem to sit at 1500 rpm and then drop to 1000rpm which is still higher than it was merely a week ago.the car had been off the road for a week due to leaking clutch master cylinder and then after that my revs have gone mental.was idling at 925-950 ish but now has increased.

Crossing my fingers it isnt ecu,because that thing scares me!

dc

[minimat]

Mine does the same but will come down again if you lift the pedal up with your foot and stay down until next time you rev it and then it will stay up again.
I adjusted the idle screw and then found out that you shouldn't move it without a diagnostic computer so i figure this may be my problem.
As i have already moved it once i see no harm in moving it again i just keep forgetting to do it as i don't use it every day.

[PMM]

@minimatt ... Your idle air adjust has prob knocked your idle play out on the throttle/tps linkage or you had a poorly setup throttle cable to start with.

Deffo not got that problem I tried the pedal lift on afew occasions with no success... good suggestion though.

I won't be home until weekend to play again.. currently typing via mobile connection on my netbook.

I did however also change the fuel filter yesterday, so still need to see the result of that yet when I get back, alot of cak came out the old one... I have a sneeky feeling its never been changed...that was fun lol spanner broke mid dis-assembly petrol petrol everywhere just the residule in the pipes I did clamp off but it was enough to get me in a panic.

Its also had over weekend new sparks / HT leads / Rad valve & seals replaced.

its funny that its a precise 1500 going by speedo I wonder if thats a saftey limp setting inforced High Idle/norm idle seem spot on.

Hey ho.. I'll get the gremlin one day lol

[minimat]

Thanks pmm i have thought about the cable being out off adjustment and have set it up acording to haynes since playing with the adjuster screw (I didnt know you shouldn't play with this without a diagnostic at the time) so i will prob slacken the cable when i remember!
Thanks for your sugestion.

[Linzi]

I have had similar problems with my cooper spi, when i bought it the revs on tick over varied from nearly 2k to cutting out, it also coughed and spluttered on start up (or as i described it "kangarooed") I have since replaced,.. the entire throttle body and stepper motor unit (for that from my other spi which is off the road but ran perfect), the throttle pedal switch, the air temp sensor, the coolant temp sensor, the thermostat, the lambda sensor and the vacuum lines. Replacing all these things has solved 99% of the issues,. no longer kangeroo's and generally ticks over and runs fine BUT after a run down say a bypass or a motorway it wont tick over at all, cuts out at every possible opportunity so cant take it very far at the mo. My only thoughts now are, fuel filter or the tank pressurising?? I have a fuel filter its just getting time and an empty tank to do it, dont fancy a tank of fuel on the drive lol

Hope you manage to get yours sorted.

[OJM]

We had an issue where ours would cut out as we rolled up to a roundabout etc. Also revs at idle would be up and down.

Eventually found it was the coolant sensor which was causing the problems. Replaced this, and the car was like new!

[PMM]

@ Linzi

You should not end up with a tank of fuel on the floor as the pump is in the tank on the SPI & electric

As long as you a) disconnect the negative terminal on the battery for safety & clamp the plastic tubing from the tank in the boot where they exit the tank at the top
you will only get leak out what is remaining in the pipe & in the filter.

That is still quite a bit but also long as you have quite abit of rag handy or kitchen roll your will fine.

When my spanner broke I started to panic as I was going to drain into a tub after I had got the bolts loose and tub was not handy so went with kitchen roll.

So make sure you have handy a couple of clampable adjustable grips or even a couple of small G-Clamps to pinch the tubing tight.

Small pot or tub of some sort to capture the leaking fuel something the size of say a 250G butter tub is more than big enough. I can't quite say how much exactly leaked out but
it would not be more than 1/4 of a tub that size.

Just remember to un-clamp the pipes after yes I forgot and was pulling my hair out when it failed to start afterwards lol

[Linzi]

Thanks for the advice il make sure im prepared before we start (yes we, my dad will be helping, or i'll be swinging on bolts forever haha!) Fingers crossed its then problem solved!