10 replies to this topic

[cromwelluk]

Hi a new member looking for some advise on an engine conversion
Not a mini i'm afraid it’s for an Austin 1100/ 1300 based kit car fitted with a MG Metro engine
Also looking using as many minibased parts as possible as part of the planned refurb
Had a few minis & metros in the past, while the A-series has its fans, times have changed
The engine is fine but the gear-change is a bit stiff so at some point it needs to come out

So to the point
Its an ideal opportunity to do an engine conversion , as its an 1100 there is not a lot of after market mods etc So none of the mini based subframes will fit etc
Looking for a common / easy to find 1600 – 2000cc 5 speed for road use

As its got an A-series engine and a similar subframe
Q 1 Which engine conversion is the easiest / best to fit in a DIY subframe

Q2 has anybody got any experience modifying Austin 1100 / 1300 ‘s

Cheers

Eddie

[Artstu]

a bit like this

[cromwelluk]

Oh Yes, that’s quality Yours?

Edited by cromwelluk, 31 August 2009 - 06:55 PM.

[Artstu]

I wish. Found it here
http://www.16vminicl...read.php?t=7770

So what have you got? one of these maybe? or William Towns machine?



Edit, I meant William Towns

Edited by Plastic rules, 31 August 2009 - 08:27 PM.

[cromwelluk]

So what have you got? one of these maybe? or Peter Towns machine?


Right first time , it’s a 85 Magenta, T&T but in need if a freshen up
So hope I’m welcome

Looking to convert the Hydrolastic to mini rubber cone
Collecting parts at then moments so far so good they fit in the front towers ok , just need to modify some hi-lo’s

Also looking at Metro Hubs and 4 pot brakes , but they are way different
Got a spare front subframe so I’m looking to build everything up and just swap the lot over

From what I have read
Of all the engine conversions the Vauxhall seems to be the most straight forward

Is there a list or link to compare engine weights as the A-series seems to be one of the lighest ??

Edited by cromwelluk, 31 August 2009 - 08:15 PM.

[Artstu]

Another one here http://www.ausmini.c...h...asc&start=0

[iain_o]

Hi Eddie,
I am the Iain on the 1100 forum that did the coilover conversion. I have modified these cars a fair bit and am looking at brake and engine conversions in the coming year. At the moment I am rebuilding a new shell following my old car getting squashed in an accident. I think you will struggle to fit the mini suspension with any success as the weights and distribution are quite different. Let us all know how you get on though.
Cheers

[cromwelluk]

Hi
Not much to add , as I’m still on a fact finding mission.
Been acquiring a few parts , just to see how and if they actually fit together
(inc Spare 1100 front subframe , knackered rear sub inc trailing arms for measurement ,
Metro front & rear subframe suspension arms Metro hubs , calipers and discs)

Iain ,also visited the 1100 Ado16 forum and there some very useful information on there.
I have a kit car which is lighter than the 1100- 1300 so the weight should be similar if not lighter than the mini hence the
potential source of parts ( I have seen your post but not any pictures )

But still unsure which way to go for the final solution

Actual Progress
Decided on a standard Vauxhall 2.0 8v engine conversion mainly due to availability and if it fits in a
Mini it will fit in a 1100 – 1300 a lot easier
Started to cut the 1300 front subframe and got the engine roughly in position ,
So far it looks very similar to the Mini-Vauxhall conversion where the “oil filter bolt and gearbox lugs” determine the position
However I want to offset the engine & G-box centerline by 40-50 mm so the alt pulley is just inside the frame edge because
 Easier mounting of the alternator
 The engine & G-box weight balance point is 65 mm off center towards the crank pulley
 The oil-filter valve bolt is not directly over the upper suspension arm bolt
 I want to refit the subframe without having to remove the crank side inner wing / valance

Got a metal frame ready to make a jig just in case I decide to make a new subframe from scratch rather than use the original tower sections

In general the 1300 suspension while similar to the mini , its more like its older big brother who has taken a few steroids ,but still shares some common parts

Mini suspension Front
The mini rubber do-nuts fit inside of the towers perfectly and a set of hi-lo type trumpets would work
However the trumpet length would need to be altered ( rears machined down ) also you would require some cups machining up to fit in the 1300 upper arms to convert them from rocker type to mini knuckles
So far so good except the damper position is a bit of a problem , looks like it needs to be fitted to the lower arm as per the Magenta Rally car
I’m also looking at the Mini Coil-over option , it can be mounted to the top arm as per the mini but requires a tower conversion / modification for the upper mount

Rear suspension
Stripped the old knackered subframe and started to take some measurements.
The most logical option is to make a rear beam subframe once again along the lines of the mini ones
The TDK is a good example, but I will be fitting additional section to make a square subframe to pick-up the rear chassis mounts for support and strength.
My spare 1300 radius arms are complete but in need a total refurbishment also very heavy
I want/ intend to use mini radius arms as they are lighter and can be fitted with coil-overs / dampers as standard although shorter in length I can alter the subframe to cater for this
The main disadvantage I can see it the 1300 rear brakes are bigger than the Mini

Front Hubs & Brakes
Still a bit more head scratching to be done
It may be possible to fit Metro Hubs , vented discs calipers but it affects the steering geometry and I’m not sure of the outcome
Fitting Princess discs and calipers could be a option but they are rare and heavier than the originals
I need to service my brakes anyway and would prefer to upgrade them at the same time
I can fit the metro discs to the 1300 but not mount the caliper as the 1300 has 3 ¼ in caliper mounting holes and the metro 3 ½ and are ½ hole out in both directions width and distance from the disc edge so an adapter pale is not an option.

As usual any advice welcome and I’ll try and post a few pictures

Eddie

[cromwelluk]

[cromwelluk]

Just a few pictures ,

[Willcox]

maybe some thing to keep a eye on Subframe kit