3 replies to this topic

[rendersonique]

Hi there,
I have a 68 cooper S and have just taken it into a local auto electricians to get it swapped over from possative earth to negative. He will also be wiring in a Smiths pulse tacho and a lumitition electronic ignition kit will be fitted in the dizzy. I have had an issue in the past when the exhaust melted the insulation on the battery cable (the long one that passes under the car and connects with the solenoid). I have asked him to have a look at the condition of this cable and possably re-route it on the inside of the car incorporating a battery cut off switch that I bought from a show earlier on in the year.

My real reason for posting is to get ideas on the best route to run the battery cable and the mounting position of the battery cut out switch. The Isolator I have is pictured below. If anybody has any photos of ones they have fitted to there minis it would be much appreciated.

[xBR4DLEY]

Could you not get the cable moved across to the other side where the exhaust isnt and then have it either in the cockpit somewhere hidden but to hand or in the boot I might do it as I need a new loom anyway.

[Grayedout]

I used to have a car with that setup. From memory it came into the cabin under the rear seat, through the rear bin, along the top of the drivers inner sill, through the crossmember with the kill switch mounted in a box next to the crossmember. Then along the inner sill and up into the engine bay.

[Cooperman]

I run mine up the RH side of the tunnel, through the seat-mounting crossmember and then to the FIA master-switch which I mount on an aluminium panel just in front of the crossmember. From there I run it along the floor, up the bulkhead to behind the heater, then along the inside just below the parcel shelf level and through the front bulkhead near the brake and clutch maaster cylinders. From there it goes to a new maaster terminal which I make from an exhaust pipe mounting rubber bolted through the bulkhead. I do this to provide an under-bonnet power source from which to take auxiliary wiring to the additional fuse boxes to save everything coming off the solenoid connection. It makes the aux. wiring so much easier. Of course, from there a piece of battery cable runs down to the solenoid input terminal. Clip all cables in properly with 'P-clips' and check that where cables pass through bulkheads, crossmembers, etc, they are correctly insulated. Insted of grommets for the main battery cabling, I drill out to about 0.75" and use a piece of heater hose, slit to allow installation and held in with a dab of RTV sealant.
I hope this helps.