12 replies to this topic

[captain kirk]

I have a a problem with my spi, it will start then run for a while, but when you turn it off, and try and start it again it just will not start, just keeps turning over, i have replaced the lambda sensor, coil, fuel trap and fuel filter.
Anybody got any ideas? before my wife goes mad and makes me sell it

[spiguy]

I have a a problem with my spi, it will start then run for a while, but when you turn it off, and try and start it again it just will not start, just keeps turning over, i have replaced the lambda sensor, coil, fuel trap and fuel filter.
Anybody got any ideas? before my wife goes mad and makes me sell it

are there any other circumstances? ie if you went out now, would it start and run fine - also when it starts, does it drive OK? and assuming it did start, if you then switch off will it fail to start? or are there more details, like how long it will run for, does it ever cut out once started, does it completely fail to start when warmed up etc.... Also, if it starts, hows the idle? smooth? rough? misfire when revved etc?

easy things to check are the inertia fuel cut off switch (pass side on the bulkhead under the bonnet) you can bypass it if it is suspect. An indication that it *could* be this would be that the fuel pump would not run when its playing up.

another simple possibility is the crankshaft sensor, could just be corroded contacts in the connector. Had this happen to me recently. This would show the same symptom, ie the fuel pump would not run, and also there would be no volts to the coil either, so you could stick a meter on the LOW TENSION side of the coil, and look to see if there is no volts there when it wont start. Easy enough to clean up the contacts in the crank sensor connector - do both sides of the connector, just use a small piece of fine sandpaper folded up.

Let us know any additional details if there are any, might be relevant.

[captain kirk]

I have a a problem with my spi, it will start then run for a while, but when you turn it off, and try and start it again it just will not start, just keeps turning over, i have replaced the lambda sensor, coil, fuel trap and fuel filter.
Anybody got any ideas? before my wife goes mad and makes me sell it

are there any other circumstances? ie if you went out now, would it start and run fine - also when it starts, does it drive OK? and assuming it did start, if you then switch off will it fail to start? or are there more details, like how long it will run for, does it ever cut out once started, does it completely fail to start when warmed up etc.... Also, if it starts, hows the idle? smooth? rough? misfire when revved etc?

easy things to check are the inertia fuel cut off switch (pass side on the bulkhead under the bonnet) you can bypass it if it is suspect. An indication that it *could* be this would be that the fuel pump would not run when its playing up.

another simple possibility is the crankshaft sensor, could just be corroded contacts in the connector. Had this happen to me recently. This would show the same symptom, ie the fuel pump would not run, and also there would be no volts to the coil either, so you could stick a meter on the LOW TENSION side of the coil, and look to see if there is no volts there when it wont start. Easy enough to clean up the contacts in the crank sensor connector - do both sides of the connector, just use a small piece of fine sandpaper folded up.

Let us know any additional details if there are any, might be relevant.

Right,when it starts from cold it does tick over quite lumpy,starts to run a bit better when it gets a bit warmer does cut out when running as well
when you try and start it again it wont start,if it does, it will just die again once you put it under any load.
sometimes it will missfire, but if you leave it for a while it will start again, cleaned up the crankshaft sensor connector today, how do bypass the fuel inertia switch?

[Mattl]

It sounds like coolant temperature sensor to me. This affect the fueling at different temperatures and it sound like you are having difficulty with hot starts possibly due to a dodgy signal from the CTS.

[captain kirk]

Thats one thing i tought it might be, i have got a new one of them, a bit of a pain to fit by all accounts.

[the.stroker]

it is fiddly mate,but not that bad,i did mine last week!!

[captain kirk]

it is fiddly mate,but not that bad,i did mine last week!!

How did you go about doing yours?
If you could give me a quick run down on how you did it,that would be a great help.

Cheers

[the.stroker]

PM in comming geezer

[captain kirk]

Cheers dude

[spiguy]

I have a a problem with my spi, it will start then run for a while, but when you turn it off, and try and start it again it just will not start, just keeps turning over, i have replaced the lambda sensor, coil, fuel trap and fuel filter.
Anybody got any ideas? before my wife goes mad and makes me sell it

I take it you have checked the vaccum lines? Specifically the one that goes from the inlet manifold, via the fuel vapour trap, to the ECU? if you take it off at the ECU end, you should be able to feel the vaccum sooking your finger )

I also take it that cleaning up the crank sensor connector made no difference? Based on your additional info, it sounds much more like the MAP sensor in the ECU isnt getting any vaccum, ie a break in the pipe somewhere.

I thought coolant sensor faults would just make it run poorly when warmed up as doesnt the ECU assume a rich setting in the absence of a good signal from the CTS? Would a faulty CTS really cause it to cut out and fail to start even when cold?

Also from your additional info, I kinda doubt it would be the inertia switch. However if you wanted to bypass it you just need to disconnect the connector and find something to go across the pins in the connector (on the cable side of course).

[Dan6061]

Mine's doing exactly the same as this!
Just got it back from being fixed, head bolt had snapped causing the headgasket to blow (again!) which is now sorted. He told me he's sorted the idling out too, even though it ran/idled fine before the gasket went!? It even cut out in his workshop when I was driving out! All he said was "Just keep the revs up!" I shouldn't have to?
I gave it a quick tweak, and it was idling ok, atleast it ran for more than 2s. But now when you first start it, it seems a bit lumpy until you rev it, then it's ok. Then it drives alright, until you get to a junction, r/bout, then it'll cut out, then not want to start straight away! Was sat there trying for a minute once before she fired up again.

Sound familiar?
I thought it just needed some final tweaking adjusting the idling, but I'm not sure...

[captain kirk]

I have a a problem with my spi, it will start then run for a while, but when you turn it off, and try and start it again it just will not start, just keeps turning over, i have replaced the lambda sensor, coil, fuel trap and fuel filter.
Anybody got any ideas? before my wife goes mad and makes me sell it

I take it you have checked the vaccum lines? Specifically the one that goes from the inlet manifold, via the fuel vapour trap, to the ECU? if you take it off at the ECU end, you should be able to feel the vaccum sooking your finger )

I also take it that cleaning up the crank sensor connector made no difference? Based on your additional info, it sounds much more like the MAP sensor in the ECU isnt getting any vaccum, ie a break in the pipe somewhere.

I thought coolant sensor faults would just make it run poorly when warmed up as doesnt the ECU assume a rich setting in the absence of a good signal from the CTS? Would a faulty CTS really cause it to cut out and fail to start even when cold?

Also from your additional info, I kinda doubt it would be the inertia switch. However if you wanted to bypass it you just need to disconnect the connector and find something to go across the pins in the connector (on the cable side of course).

Will check the vaccum lines tomorrow, the vaccum lines are quite new so will take it off and see if i can feel it sucking!!!
Tried bypassing the inertia switch, still the same.
I thought it maybe the crankcase sensor itself, can you take it out and clean it? cleaning the crankcase connector made no differance.

[rasputin22]

Its the CTS. I had a metro do this the other day with those exact symptons. If you can get hold of a fluke and put it to ohms mode. Test the resistance across the pins and it should be about 2000ohms when engine is cold and alot less when warm. If its alot higher then this take it to an autofactors and ask for a replacement.

You should find it'lldrive lke a new car and will cost around £15 at the most