
Crankcase Ventilation Decision
#1
Posted 08 September 2009 - 12:58 PM
One on the rocker cover that is attached to the air filter box for the carbs,
And the other from the tappet chest cover that is just open to atmosphere.
Should i connect the tappet chest breather also to the air filter box? or open both to atmosphere?
If i change the standard element filters to individual cone or pankcake filters or even trumpets, how do i a plumb into the carbs?
Thanks in advance, Rich
#2
Posted 08 September 2009 - 01:33 PM
Unless you have a top end race motor (and use it for racing) then it's better to send the vapour to the engine and keep the crank well ventilated.
As for if you get cones, the hs2s should have a fat pipe for connecting to the breather system. Unless you got some old old carbs in which case I have seen the crank brather connected to the metal back of the cone filters. So they vent inside the filters, think I saw it done with a plumbing barb.
#3
Posted 08 September 2009 - 02:06 PM
Unless you have a top end race motor (and use it for racing) then it's better to send the vapour to the engine and keep the crank well ventilated.
Out of interest, how do you send the vapour to the engine and how would this help ventilate the crank. Sorry if that is a silly question, i understand the basics of the a series, just not all the little details.
#4
Posted 09 September 2009 - 09:41 AM
#5
Posted 09 September 2009 - 10:07 AM
The standard system works by letting air in through the oil filler cap and sucking it out through the breather, this also helps the oil drain back to the sump.
Connecting only one breather to the engine's induction would draw air through the other breather which might not have enough of a flow restriction resulting in no pressure reduction and excess air going in to the induction.
Twin carbs had breathers connected to the inlet manifold via a "gulp valve" that closed if the vacuum got too high. Connecting the breathers direct to the carb could mess up their balance. Connecting them to a common filter casing would work too.
#6
Posted 09 September 2009 - 10:14 AM
#7
Posted 09 September 2009 - 12:42 PM
Alternatively, does anybody have a picture of the 'gulp valve' mentioned on the manifold so that i can see if there is one on my manifold?
Thanks again for all responses, Rich
#8
Posted 09 September 2009 - 12:51 PM
#9
Posted 05 November 2009 - 12:37 PM
by the way - 1293, Cooper S head, HIF44, K&N
#10
Posted 05 November 2009 - 01:06 PM
Ideally you want the pressure at the bottom of the engine to be less than at the top to draw oil back to the sump - this is usually achieved by plumbing the top to atmosphere via a restrictor (oil cap or pipe to air filter case) and attaching the crankcase breather to the the inlet after the carb choke - but before the throttle if it's an open pipe from the breathers.
#11
Posted 05 November 2009 - 10:28 PM
The "gulp" valve is attached to the inlet manifold by it's lower connection. I've then plumbed in the timing chain and drop gear case breathers through a "Y" piece to the valve inlet.
I believe this was the standard set up on Cooper "S" minis
Steve.
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