12 replies to this topic

[Azza1]

I have a 1978 shell with a 1982? 1275 engine which I have just managed to start up, yeah! I've still got a long way to go.. Next are the brakes. I know very little about cars in general and want to learn more by restoring this mini. Could anyone please help with my next project BLEEDING BRAKES.

I know that my master cylinder is working as I had new stainless sleves put in so there shouldn't be any pitting in the near future.

My brake line was completely disconected and is empty. I may need to make my own beeding kit???

Any ideas?

Cheers

[Big_Adam]

If you're doing it all yourself. Go to a local pet shop and buy a bit of tube (1/4 ID or less, has to fit the bleed nipple on the brakes) and a one way valve used for fish tank air supplys to stop water getting to the pump.

Put the pipe on the rear passenger wheel, put valve on end, put end in jar, open valve and pump the pedal. The do rear driver side, front passenger, then driver side.

Or get a goon to help.

If you're using ALL NEW braking system with NO OLD FLUID then you can use silicone fluid which is a bit better than the regular paint stripping stuff.

[CobraV8]

You can probably get a brake bleed bottle from Supercheap Auto as well.

I am in New Zealand too - Wellington.

Get yourself a Haynes Manual from Trademe (I just bought one for a dollar) and read up the processes before trying.

There are plenty of clubs about - so... recommend you join one, and I am sure people can help out.

Have fun with the toy - just what I am doing too!

[dklawson]

Welcome!

The longer you visit boards like this one, the more you'll come to see that brake bleeding is an area where everyone finds a method they like and promote. It's a seemingly simple task but every now and then you'll find a car whose brakes won't behave and are very, very, difficult to bleed.

Since your brake system has been completely apart and is likely to be bone dry inside, I'll make the suggestion that you first fill the reservoir with whatever fluid you decide to use and gravity bleed the system starting with the nipple furthest from the master cylinder and working your way to the nipple that's closest. In gravity bleeding you attach the hose that Adam mentioned and once you fill the reservoir, you crack the bleed nipple open and wait for the fluid to find its way out of the nipple, down the hose, and into your catch jar. Keep your eye on the reservoir level so it never falls too low. The reason I suggest gravity bleeding at the start is to avoid shifting any of the proportioning valve components on the rear subframe. That valve can cause real problems.

Once the gravity bleed is done, you can use more traditional methods and tools. Many people will recommend EZ-Bleed or some other tool like a vacuum bleeder. I have never used those tools so I cannot comment. The method I learned is highly effective but it's apparently not the most common method. The method I use involves two people, one for turning a wrench, the other to work the brake pedal. The sequence goes something like this:
Start at the nipple furthest from the MC. Attach a bleed hose to the nipple and place the other end in a jar.
Under the car, place the appropriate wrench on the bleed nipple and crack it open approximately 1/2 turn.
Call to your assistant to press the brake pedal "DOWN". As they push the pedal SLOWLY, you watch the tubing for fluid and bubbles.
When the pedal is down, your assistant HOLDS the pedal down and calls "DOWN" back to you and you close the bleed nipple.
When the bleed nipple is closed, you call to your assistant "UP" and they release the pedal slowly.
When the pedal is all the way up, they call "UP" back to you and you open the bleed nipple again.
You repeat the opening and closing sequence along with the UP/DOWN calls until you are satisfied that no more bubbles are coming out of the tubing with the brake fluid.
CHECK THE RESERVOIR OFTEN during this cycle.
A bit of Teflon thread sealing tape on the bleed nipple threads greatly helps the process as it won't allow any small bubbles to somehow get sucked in along the nipple threads if your timing is off.

This method has always worked very well for me and requires nothing more than tubing, a jar, and a wrench.

Again, welcome and keep us up to date on your progress.

Edited by dklawson, 10 September 2009 - 08:00 PM.

[Azza1]

Welcome!

The longer you visit boards like this one, the more you'll come to see that brake bleeding is an area where everyone finds a method they like and promote. It's a seemingly simple task but every now and then you'll find a car whose brakes won't behave and are very, very, difficult to bleed.

Since your brake system has been completely apart and is likely to be bone dry inside, I'll make the suggestion that you first fill the reservoir with whatever fluid you decide to use and gravity bleed the system starting with the nipple furthest from the master cylinder and working your way to the nipple that's closest. In gravity bleeding you attach the hose that Adam mentioned and once you fill the reservoir, you crack the bleed nipple open and wait for the fluid to find its way out of the nipple, down the hose, and into your catch jar. Keep your eye on the reservoir level so it never falls too low. The reason I suggest gravity bleeding at the start is to avoid shifting any of the proportioning valve components on the rear subframe. That valve can cause real problems.

Once the gravity bleed is done, you can use more traditional methods and tools. Many people will recommend EZ-Bleed or some other tool like a vacuum bleeder. I have never used those tools so I cannot comment. The method I learned is highly effective but it's apparently not the most common method. The method I use involves two people, one for turning a wrench, the other to work the brake pedal. The sequence goes something like this:
Start at the nipple furthest from the MC. Attach a bleed hose to the nipple and place the other end in a jar.
Under the car, place the appropriate wrench on the bleed nipple and crack it open approximately 1/2 turn.
Call to your assistant to press the brake pedal "DOWN". As they push the pedal SLOWLY, you watch the tubing for fluid and bubbles.
When the pedal is down, your assistant HOLDS the pedal down and calls "DOWN" back to you and you close the bleed nipple.
When the bleed nipple is closed, you call to your assistant "UP" and they release the pedal slowly.
When the pedal is all the way up, they call "UP" back to you and you open the bleed nipple again.
You repeat the opening and closing sequence along with the UP/DOWN calls until you are satisfied that no more bubbles are coming out of the tubing with the brake fluid.
CHECK THE RESERVOIR OFTEN during this cycle.
A bit of Teflon thread sealing tape on the bleed nipple threads greatly helps the process as it won't allow any small bubbles to somehow get sucked in along the nipple threads if your timing is off.

This method has always worked very well for me and requires nothing more than tubing, a jar, and a wrench.

Again, welcome and keep us up to date on your progress.

Thankyou very much for your advise. I think I will go buy a bleeding kit and then do your UP/DOWN routine. But I may have a small problem. I beleive my rear passengers side brake is bleed but my right back brake doesn't want to let any fluid out at all. Wouldnt it gravity feed into the brake cylinder??? and therefore drip out the bleeder??? even when I take the bleeder right out, it still won't run any fluid!

[Azza1]

You can probably get a brake bleed bottle from Supercheap Auto as well.

I am in New Zealand too - Wellington.

Get yourself a Haynes Manual from Trademe (I just bought one for a dollar) and read up the processes before trying.

There are plenty of clubs about - so... recommend you join one, and I am sure people can help out.

Have fun with the toy - just what I am doing too!

Thanks for your comments. Don't surpose you know where I can source cheap second hand parts? Little bits like light housings etc.

[Azza1]

TANDOEDMINI I got it done, can you help with my next issue???

[CobraV8]

You can probably get a brake bleed bottle from Supercheap Auto as well.

I am in New Zealand too - Wellington.

Get yourself a Haynes Manual from Trademe (I just bought one for a dollar) and read up the processes before trying.

There are plenty of clubs about - so... recommend you join one, and I am sure people can help out.

Have fun with the toy - just what I am doing too!

Thanks for your comments. Don't surpose you know where I can source cheap second hand parts? Little bits like light housings etc.

For cheap and second hand - see Tradme, there seems to be most parts on there off and on. I think the Mini Specialist in Christchurch also sells second hand parts (their name escapes me tho). For new bits - I have been getting my own from the UK.

[Ethel]

A fair few bits, particularly electricals, are common to other older vehicles.

[dklawson]

I beleive my rear passengers side brake is bleed but my right back brake doesn't want to let any fluid out at all. Wouldnt it gravity feed into the brake cylinder??? and therefore drip out the bleeder??? even when I take the bleeder right out, it still won't run any fluid!

You are describing a fairly common nuisance with Mini brakes. Remember that I did mention that sometimes they refuse to cooperate.

If nothing will come out of the bleeder nipple using gravity feed you can try a couple of other things to "prime" the line.
1) With Teflon tape on the bleed nipple threads use a hand-type vacuum pump to apply a little negative pressure to "suck" the brake fluid out. You'll just need to do enough to remove the air pocket that's effectively blocked the line.
2) A messier method that I've had to resort to in the past is to get the car up on stands so you can safely work underneath the rear. Disconnect the line going INTO the proportioning valve and let some brake fluid flow out (just for a few seconds) so you know the line to the front is primed and full. After re-attaching the input line to the valve, remove each discharge line (left and right, one at a time) from the valve so you see fluid coming out/through the valve. After re-attaching both of those pipes, move out to the end of the hard pipes right before the flex lines and break those joints open (again, one at a time and open long enough to let some brake fluid run out. Hopefully by the time you've gone to this trouble any airlock in the lines has been pushed out to the point that you should be able to gravity bleed by opening the nipples and waiting.

[Big_Adam]

You know, some days I imagine dklawson on top of a large hoodoo in a wind swept desert with howling in the background. He sits and awaits travellers who seek his infinite mini based knowledge. They must pass the trials of the desert and climb his hoodoo, they are then worthy to ask him their questions.

He then responses in a slow soft voice with the wisdom of many years, while stroking his grizzled sun tanned face, then returns to mediation and carb rebuilding.

Then again I have only just woke up.

[level7]

You can probably get a brake bleed bottle from Supercheap Auto as well.

I am in New Zealand too - Wellington.

Get yourself a Haynes Manual from Trademe (I just bought one for a dollar) and read up the processes before trying.

There are plenty of clubs about - so... recommend you join one, and I am sure people can help out.

Have fun with the toy - just what I am doing too!

Thanks for your comments. Don't surpose you know where I can source cheap second hand parts? Little bits like light housings etc.

Give Larry a call at Swift Automotive in Chch he always has lots of good second hand parts in stock

[dklawson]

He sits and awaits travellers who seek his infinite mini based knowledge. They must pass the trials of the desert and climb his hoodoo, they are then worthy to ask him their questions.

Err, uhm... thanks?

I picture myself more like the Bridge Keeper in Monty Python and the Quest for the Holy Grail....
What is your quest?
What is your favorite color?
What is the capital of Assyria?