
Fuel Gauge Stopped Working, Fuse Maybe?
#1
Posted 12 September 2009 - 09:05 PM
Fuse maybe?
Is it on its own fuse or is it on a joint one? Also does anyone have a picture of the fuse board layout?
Or has anyone else got a resoloution.
Thanks
Sam
#2
Posted 12 September 2009 - 09:38 PM
Earth the sender wire and it should read full, that'd leave the sender or earth as suspects.
#3
Posted 12 September 2009 - 10:10 PM
Sorry i dont know much about wiring.
#4
Posted 12 September 2009 - 10:18 PM
#5
Posted 12 September 2009 - 11:34 PM
Got my 1998 Cooper sportspack the other day and found the fuel guage was not working. I wiggled the wires on the tank itself and it worked for about 2 mins then suddenly stopped again. Nothing i do now gets it working again.
Fuse maybe?
Is it on its own fuse or is it on a joint one? Also does anyone have a picture of the fuse board layout?
Or has anyone else got a resoloution.
Thanks
Sam
All the fuse board ratings are available here (page 39 & 40): -
Click Me
#6
Posted 13 September 2009 - 02:05 PM
How would i access the sender, does it mean tank out and split apart or is there any other way?
Oh and this morning when i put some fuel in the guage moved a bit but then stopped
#7
Posted 13 September 2009 - 04:37 PM
#8
Posted 13 September 2009 - 04:59 PM
#9
Posted 13 September 2009 - 06:13 PM
I guess i need a new sender unit.
EDIT: Is this what i need to get to replace the old one: http://www.minispare...mp;title=PETROL TANK SENDER UNIT -...
Cheers
Edited by sambarnes, 13 September 2009 - 06:20 PM.
#10
Posted 15 September 2009 - 12:28 AM
Just tested that by connecting the two wires, and the guage went straight up.
I guess i need a new sender unit.
EDIT: Is this what i need to get to replace the old one: http://www.minispare...mp;title=PETROL TANK SENDER UNIT -...
Cheers
No, that one is for the Mini Van, Pick-Up and Estate.
You want this one: -
Click Me.
Although their currently out of stock. I've checked Somerford Minis, but they want silly money for it (£58.73 less VAT) and so I'd shop around instead.
#11
Posted 15 September 2009 - 12:35 AM
And how can I check this is the case as dont know what fuse I need is a 79 mini 1000
Thanks
Greg
#12
Posted 15 September 2009 - 12:46 AM
Sorry to butt in but if my fuel gauge and tempreture gauge is not working does this mean it is quite likely that the fuse has gone?
And how can I check this is the case as dont know what fuse I need is a 79 mini 1000
Thanks
Greg
Hello Greg here's the fuse ratings: -
Standard 4 fuse box mounted on the bulkhead: -
1 1-2 35amp Brake Lights, Reverse Lights, Direction Indicators & Rear Screen Demister.
2 3-4 25amp Horn, Headlamp Flasher, Brake Failure Circuit & Radio Memory.
3 5-6 25amp Heater Blower Motor, Windscreen Wipers, Washer Motor & Instruments.
4 7-8 15amp Side & Tail Lights & Panel Lights.
1-2 These circuits only operate with the ignition switch at position "II".
5-6 These circuits only operate with the ignition switch at position "I" or "II".
But there's always the chance that your voltage regulator has packed in?
#13
Posted 15 September 2009 - 12:59 AM
Sorry to butt in but if my fuel gauge and tempreture gauge is not working does this mean it is quite likely that the fuse has gone?
And how can I check this is the case as dont know what fuse I need is a 79 mini 1000
Thanks
Greg
Hello Greg here's the fuse ratings: -
Standard 4 fuse box mounted on the bulkhead: -
1 1-2 35amp Brake Lights, Reverse Lights, Direction Indicators & Rear Screen Demister.
2 3-4 25amp Horn, Headlamp Flasher, Brake Failure Circuit & Radio Memory.
3 5-6 25amp Heater Blower Motor, Windscreen Wipers, Washer Motor & Instruments.
4 7-8 15amp Side & Tail Lights & Panel Lights.
1-2 These circuits only operate with the ignition switch at position "II".
5-6 These circuits only operate with the ignition switch at position "I" or "II".
But there's always the chance that your voltage regulator has packed in?
Possibly at the moment oil pressure gauge not connected or working dont know how to fix that myself as cant even find wires and loom looks a mss. The temp gauge is connected but does not work same with fuel gauge and the heater does not work either. It is a nice little car but the electrics on it are a nightmare and want to get them sorted before I pass my test. Do you think the fuse could be it or not? I think might be worth a try at least and if not might have to get my dad's mate to look at it. Would they be anway of telling if the voltage regulator had packed up?
#14
Posted 15 September 2009 - 03:26 PM
Sorry to butt in but if my fuel gauge and tempreture gauge is not working does this mean it is quite likely that the fuse has gone?
And how can I check this is the case as dont know what fuse I need is a 79 mini 1000
Thanks
Greg
Hello Greg here's the fuse ratings: -
Standard 4 fuse box mounted on the bulkhead: -
1 1-2 35amp Brake Lights, Reverse Lights, Direction Indicators & Rear Screen Demister.
2 3-4 25amp Horn, Headlamp Flasher, Brake Failure Circuit & Radio Memory.
3 5-6 25amp Heater Blower Motor, Windscreen Wipers, Washer Motor & Instruments.
4 7-8 15amp Side & Tail Lights & Panel Lights.
1-2 These circuits only operate with the ignition switch at position "II".
5-6 These circuits only operate with the ignition switch at position "I" or "II".
But there's always the chance that your voltage regulator has packed in?
Possibly at the moment oil pressure gauge not connected or working dont know how to fix that myself as cant even find wires and loom looks a mss. The temp gauge is connected but does not work same with fuel gauge and the heater does not work either. It is a nice little car but the electrics on it are a nightmare and want to get them sorted before I pass my test. Do you think the fuse could be it or not? I think might be worth a try at least and if not might have to get my dad's mate to look at it. Would they be anway of telling if the voltage regulator had packed up?
Well I'm no car electrical expert as such, so it'd be worth asking for advice on the main 'Problems, Questions and Technical' section as this part is for the fuel injection cars: -
Click Me
#15
Posted 30 April 2011 - 01:47 PM
I know this thread is old, but i've been reading it after my gauge stopped working (and assume others will too).
Just a word of warning to those who decide to replace the sender - try taking the old one out first before buying a new one.
Today I found out the rubber stop ring (or whatever the stupid thing is called) around the float can slip up the arm and hold the mechanism down, thus the gauge reads empty.
Its probably a long shot of this happening to anyone else but is a free fix if this is the case.
I should think this ring thing falls off many senders and drops to bottom of the tank. In my case I was unlucky.
Having found this out the hard way and bought another sender - would anyone like to buy the spare i now have??? lol!
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