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Trouble Removing Front Hub From Driveshaft


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#1 mintom

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 05:40 PM

Hi,

I'm in the process of replacing front bearings and servicing/replacing swivel joints for the first time.
Disc and flange are off, the front hub ball joints have been split, and the hub is now hanging only by the driveshaft.

I want to get the hub off the driveshaft, and Haynes tells me a few taps with a soft faced mallet is required, but I'm finding it's not enough to free the hub from the driveshaft, something's sticking?

Any tips on hub removal if things get stuck?
I'm happy to get aggressive enough to waste the existing bearings/seals as they're being replaced.

Thanks.

#2 GraemeC

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:05 PM

If the drive flange is removed then it can only be that the bearing inner races are stuck to the CV.

I would be tempted to remove the CV gaiter and then try and knock the CV off the driveshaft, so it comes off and brings the hub with it - at least then you can deal with it out in the open.

I would hazard you may be needing a new CV joint as well as bearings. On re-assenbly make sure you torque the whole lot up following the correct procedure - this will mean investing in a good thick washer for the initial seating of the bearings - MRA Minis sell a washer made for the job.

#3 wassupcrew

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:07 PM

just wondering, did you undo the big centre nut?

#4 mintom

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:15 PM

Hub nut most definitely off wassupcrew. That was entertainment in itself which I have to share later!

Thanks Graeme. I didn't really want to disturb the CV joint unless forced to. Certainly the bearings have wear/lubrication issues on that side, from the hum proportional to speed when things get warmed up. Swivel joints need reshimming at the very least too, Have all the parts ready to go. Thanks for the tip on the washer.

#5 GraemeC

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:58 PM

There is obviously two ways to knock the hub off teh joint - one would be to wind the hub nut back on until it is flush with the end of the CV and then try and knock the CV back through the hub - depends how hard you need to hit it as to whether the CV threads get damaged.

The other option is to try and hit the back of the hub to knock it off the CV. This may however still end up taking the CV with it!

If/when you get it off the CV inspect the CV carefully - I still think it will be knackered if the bearings have such a good hold, they may well have either rusted or fretted themselves on there.

#6 Pauly

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 07:00 PM

Coupe of sharp hits with a rubber mallet got mine off.

Paul.

#7 mintom

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 09:57 AM

Got the hub off in the end. Much more thumping, and came out a bit easier when I removed the outer race. Outside surface of the CV Joint seems ok, not rusted.

The other side came off without a whimper. A piece of cake in comparison...

#8 Jordie

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 09:59 AM

I once struggled getting one off for ages. I ended up splitting the CV from the joint and working on it in a vice.

We knew the bearing had issues, hence doing the job. But the bearing as totally collapsed and all the roller (tamiken roller bearing) were crushed and loose etc.

Posted Image

Was a nightmare, luckily had a spare CV joint so we could fix it and replace with new bearings.

Jordie

#9 mintom

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 10:11 AM

Ouch!!!! :errr: Looks like somethings thrown its toys out of the pram there...

Car 1 Human 1 this morning. Already sheared a brake caliper bolt off in the hub, by tightening instead of loosening a bolt when half awake.. Confucious say, "have proper lie in saturday morning and big breakfast beforehand to avoid trouble in garage". :)

#10 mintom

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 03:39 PM

A quick question on inspection of bearings / refurb of hubs, is it possible to get just the seals that come in a bearing kit, e.g. if the bearings seem to be in good condition, but you've had to mangle a seal to the the bearing out..

Or is it always better to replace the bearings completly? as I'm not sure what to look for in terms of wear.

#11 mintom

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 06:46 PM

Anyone on the above Q? :lol:

New ball joints lapped in lovely so we are getting there..

#12 Big_Adam

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 06:49 PM

A quick question on inspection of bearings / refurb of hubs, is it possible to get just the seals that come in a bearing kit, e.g. if the bearings seem to be in good condition, but you've had to mangle a seal to the the bearing out..

Or is it always better to replace the bearings completly? as I'm not sure what to look for in terms of wear.


If you got the bearings and seals all already out then you might as well change the lot. If your short on cash then check for play and then replace the seals if it's all you can afford. No point replacing a good part. Just grease it all back up real good.

Thats what I'd do. But if I had already bought the bearings then just change them anyway.

#13 bmcecosse

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 07:00 PM

You can certainly get new seals - and if the bearings look fine - just use them!

#14 mintom

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 08:01 AM

Thanks guys.
Just what I needed to know. Will look out for seals on the weekend. Already got bearing kits. Stripped down both of the hubs, there was a problem with one, and I've managed to get a whole driveshaft/hub assy off a friend. The donor hub apparently has not long had new timken bearings, but needs a clean up. Just didn't want to get too carried away and waste good parts as you said, I might find another problem when it's back on the road.

#15 GraemeC

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 08:56 AM

Seals:
http://www.minispare...amp;title=FRONT HUB OUTER SEAL
http://www.minispare...amp;title=FRONT HUB INNER SEAL




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