
Self Leveling Primer
#1
Posted 27 September 2009 - 02:29 PM
#2
Posted 27 September 2009 - 09:41 PM
#3
Posted 27 September 2009 - 11:06 PM
what do you mean by self leveling primer?, one that you dont have to flat?
#4
Posted 27 September 2009 - 11:08 PM

#5
Posted 27 September 2009 - 11:18 PM
#6
Posted 27 September 2009 - 11:23 PM
I just needed some sort of primer to sort slight ripples in panels, instead of skimming the whole panel, might have to use the reface route again then 2k filler primer, it's just last time i used reface i dry flatted it by hand with 320 grit and it took me ages.
you can borrow my twin piston sander - speed it up a bit

#7
Posted 27 September 2009 - 11:31 PM
Cheers for that mate, appreciated, im bidding on one on ebay at the moment, ends tommorow if goes for two much i wont bother and just get theI just needed some sort of primer to sort slight ripples in panels, instead of skimming the whole panel, might have to use the reface route again then 2k filler primer, it's just last time i used reface i dry flatted it by hand with 320 grit and it took me ages.
you can borrow my twin piston sander - speed it up a bit
one ive seen at machine mart in my price range on saturday, but thanks for the offer.

#8
Posted 28 September 2009 - 05:59 PM
Primer should only be used as a surface to paint onto, not for filling any dints, ripples, wobbles, pin holes etc... all these should be sorted with the same bodyfiller.. products such as stopper, in my opinion arnt good.. stick to the same product through each stage and you'll have nothing bite you on the arse down the line.
If you do have a shimmery panels that wont dissapear through flatting your primer as normal, then a thin skim along the entire panel and a long block used with 120-180 should sort it out.
Also, agreed on the reface.. not a fan myself and flatting it with 320 is crazy, use 120-180 and your high build primer will go over it nicely.
Edited by jack_marshall, 28 September 2009 - 06:04 PM.
#9
Posted 28 September 2009 - 07:24 PM
Thanks for your advice jack, ive been applying filler to bare metal as if i dont it will sink, so ill just skin the whole panel then block it and use a light coat of etch then ill use 2k primer over the top then ill apply a guide coat then block flat with 320 dry then 800 wet.Without offending anybody.. ripples and wobbles should all be sorted at the panel beating and filling stage.
Primer should only be used as a surface to paint onto, not for filling any dints, ripples, wobbles, pin holes etc... all these should be sorted with the same bodyfiller.. products such as stopper, in my opinion arnt good.. stick to the same product through each stage and you'll have nothing bite you on the arse down the line.
If you do have a shimmery panels that wont dissapear through flatting your primer as normal, then a thin skim along the entire panel and a long block used with 120-180 should sort it out.
Also, agreed on the reface.. not a fan myself and flatting it with 320 is crazy, use 120-180 and your high build primer will go over it nicely.
#10
Posted 29 September 2009 - 08:14 AM
#11
Posted 29 September 2009 - 05:48 PM
But yeah, the sequence you have put should not bring you any problems.
Also, if I know i'll be 320'ing and then 800'ing I tend to 320 it untill guide coat is still a little visible otherwise you end up rubbing through to filler/metal with the 800.
Edited by jack_marshall, 29 September 2009 - 06:11 PM.
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