Should the outer column clamp/clip [that connects the steering column to the mounting bracket] be removable from the outer steering column? or is it permanently attached to the outer column? I'm trying to resolve issues lining up the indicator cancel post and column cowl.
'65 Mk1 Steering Column?
Started by
texas65coopers
, Nov 04 2009 09:40 PM
10 replies to this topic
#2
dklawson
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Posted 05 November 2009 - 01:41 AM
I'm not sure I understand. Can you post some pictures? I have a '64 and once I understand, I can look and/or take pictures for you.
#3
Ivor Badger
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Posted 05 November 2009 - 02:02 AM
Should the outer column clamp/clip [that connects the steering column to the mounting bracket] be removable from the outer steering column? or is it permanently attached to the outer column? I'm trying to resolve issues lining up the indicator cancel post and column cowl.
On a 65,if it's the parcel shelf clamp at the top of outer shroud. It is freely mounted on the column and is clamped by friction when you tighten it onto the shelf bracket.
#4
texas65coopers
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Posted 05 November 2009 - 02:27 AM
The bracket/clip/clamp in question:
Shown as #43 [or part#21A29] See Here
Attaches the steering column to the parcel shelf/dash bracket:
Shown as # 47 [or part#21A322] See Here
The steering column looks just like the one also Shown Here as # 25 / # 26
I don't have photo's right now that's why I'm using the PDF. But photos of a correct one would be v. useful!
This all came about as I was swapping out the steering wheel. The slip ring assembly for the horn was never previously installed with the original wheel in place and the steering column cowl was held together with electrical tape! The indicator switch assembly was positioned lower than the 20 degrees above horizontal so everything fit together but not in the right place for the indicator switch canceling stud to do it's job. After fitting the slip ring and horn push wiring I realized that with the indicator switch in the correct place for the canceling stud the cowl would not go back on. It hits the bottom of the steering wheel boss and the 4 holes don't line up with tabs/holes on the column. If the outer steering column could be moved [toward the pedals] and rotated then I think everything will line up. However, the clamp that bolts the steering column to the chrome bracket on the parcel shelf appears to be firmly connected the steering column even after removing the bolt and supposedly taking the pressure off the clamp. Should I try knocking it loose?
by the way: all the parts that I've mentioned are Mk1 parts [as far as I can tell] and the car is left hand drive. The new steering wheel is a Moto-Lita with the correct boss and Mk1 horn push. The cowl is a repro part.
Also, when I install the horn in the engine bay, what is the correct location within the engine bay for it, can't seem to find a description or picture in any of my books.
Thanks for any wisdom that can be applied to this.
Ian C.
Shown as #43 [or part#21A29] See Here
Attaches the steering column to the parcel shelf/dash bracket:
Shown as # 47 [or part#21A322] See Here
The steering column looks just like the one also Shown Here as # 25 / # 26
I don't have photo's right now that's why I'm using the PDF. But photos of a correct one would be v. useful!
This all came about as I was swapping out the steering wheel. The slip ring assembly for the horn was never previously installed with the original wheel in place and the steering column cowl was held together with electrical tape! The indicator switch assembly was positioned lower than the 20 degrees above horizontal so everything fit together but not in the right place for the indicator switch canceling stud to do it's job. After fitting the slip ring and horn push wiring I realized that with the indicator switch in the correct place for the canceling stud the cowl would not go back on. It hits the bottom of the steering wheel boss and the 4 holes don't line up with tabs/holes on the column. If the outer steering column could be moved [toward the pedals] and rotated then I think everything will line up. However, the clamp that bolts the steering column to the chrome bracket on the parcel shelf appears to be firmly connected the steering column even after removing the bolt and supposedly taking the pressure off the clamp. Should I try knocking it loose?
by the way: all the parts that I've mentioned are Mk1 parts [as far as I can tell] and the car is left hand drive. The new steering wheel is a Moto-Lita with the correct boss and Mk1 horn push. The cowl is a repro part.
Also, when I install the horn in the engine bay, what is the correct location within the engine bay for it, can't seem to find a description or picture in any of my books.
Thanks for any wisdom that can be applied to this.
Ian C.
Edited by texas65coopers, 05 November 2009 - 03:10 AM.
#5
Dan
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Posted 05 November 2009 - 10:22 AM
The outer column on a late Mk1 is slightly different depending on if the car has a steering lock or not, sounds like you might have a mix of parts. Do you have a steering lock fitted?
The horn on later cars fits to a bracket hanging from the slam panel in front of the clutch, I don't know if that's the same on a Mk1.
The horn on later cars fits to a bracket hanging from the slam panel in front of the clutch, I don't know if that's the same on a Mk1.
#6
midridge2
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Posted 05 November 2009 - 12:02 PM
did the mk1/2 ever have a steering lock fitted?
#7
Dan
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Posted 05 November 2009 - 12:49 PM
From memory it was an option either from the start of production or from '63 on UK spec cars. It was also a standard fit in some markets (possibly Sweden and Canada) from the very beginning of sales in those territories I think. So there are lots of combinations of parts available. With this car being in North America it could be from anywhere and there's even a good chance it might be a logbook rebuild (no offence meant, many Minis in the US are dodgy) so I don't think anything should be discounted. Cars that have been around a while pickup parts from all over the place.
#8
texas65coopers
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Posted 05 November 2009 - 02:15 PM
With this car being in North America it could be from anywhere and there's even a good chance it might be a logbook rebuild (no offence meant, many Minis in the US are dodgy) so I don't think anything should be discounted. Cars that have been around a while pickup parts from all over the place.
No offense taken, it was built in UK in '65 as a LHD export Coopers 'S' for the USA, delivered to a dealer in Fort Worth, Texas and sold in '66.
Edited by texas65coopers, 05 November 2009 - 02:19 PM.
#9
texas65coopers
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Posted 05 November 2009 - 02:18 PM
The outer column on a late Mk1 is slightly different depending on if the car has a steering lock or not, sounds like you might have a mix of parts. Do you have a steering lock fitted?
The horn on later cars fits to a bracket hanging from the slam panel in front of the clutch, I don't know if that's the same on a Mk1.
No steering lock.
#10
dklawson
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Posted 05 November 2009 - 05:12 PM
My car has a steering column drop bracket but I can probably still take some useful photos for you if you'd like. However, I don't really want to remove my column shroud if I don't have to. (It's original and a bit fragile). However, I'll see what I can do to provide additional photos. Just spell out what you'd like pictures of and I'll do what I can.
Are you and the car still in the DFW area or elsewhere? TX is an awful big place.
Are you and the car still in the DFW area or elsewhere? TX is an awful big place.
#11
dklawson
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Posted 06 November 2009 - 12:40 AM
Sorry, no pictures yet but I did want to add some information.
I looked at my car's steering column tonight and would like to share a few observations. The cowl on my steering column does not have the split "horizontal". It is angled slightly down to the left. Likewise the signal stalk is down about 20 degrees below horizontal. (LHD car without steering lock, like yours).
I also have an aftermarket wheel, however, mine is a much older Sparco Monza wheel with a very simple hub. Regardless, some of what I noted should apply to your installation. The steering column clamp (Item 43 in the Somerford link) should indeed be a separate part that can move on the column. Since Item 43 clamps on the outer shell of the column, try removing the nut (Item 46) from the pinch bolt (Items 44), then place a flat-blade screwdriver in the split of the clamp. Pry the split open slightly. You may need two screwdrivers (one from the rear pointed up, one from the front pointed down). Once you pry the clamp open you should be able to slide the outer shell of the column up and down and rotate through a few degrees. On my car the outer shell of the column stops just above the pinch bolt for the steering joint on the floor. You should be able to move your column shell up and down to achieve a good cosmetic gap between the steering wheel hub and the shroud. (Obviously trial and error). Likewise, with the road wheels pointed straight ahead, you should be able to rotate the column shell through a few degrees to put the signal cancelation feature (more or less) inline with the center of the switch pawls so the cancellation feature will work correctly for both left and right turns.
I hope some of this helps. If not, as I mentioned above, just let me know what you'd like pictures of.
I looked at my car's steering column tonight and would like to share a few observations. The cowl on my steering column does not have the split "horizontal". It is angled slightly down to the left. Likewise the signal stalk is down about 20 degrees below horizontal. (LHD car without steering lock, like yours).
I also have an aftermarket wheel, however, mine is a much older Sparco Monza wheel with a very simple hub. Regardless, some of what I noted should apply to your installation. The steering column clamp (Item 43 in the Somerford link) should indeed be a separate part that can move on the column. Since Item 43 clamps on the outer shell of the column, try removing the nut (Item 46) from the pinch bolt (Items 44), then place a flat-blade screwdriver in the split of the clamp. Pry the split open slightly. You may need two screwdrivers (one from the rear pointed up, one from the front pointed down). Once you pry the clamp open you should be able to slide the outer shell of the column up and down and rotate through a few degrees. On my car the outer shell of the column stops just above the pinch bolt for the steering joint on the floor. You should be able to move your column shell up and down to achieve a good cosmetic gap between the steering wheel hub and the shroud. (Obviously trial and error). Likewise, with the road wheels pointed straight ahead, you should be able to rotate the column shell through a few degrees to put the signal cancelation feature (more or less) inline with the center of the switch pawls so the cancellation feature will work correctly for both left and right turns.
I hope some of this helps. If not, as I mentioned above, just let me know what you'd like pictures of.
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