19 replies to this topic

[djshongo]

Model:sprite
Year:1993
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible):how to replace old inline fuses



hi guys,

im looking to replace all the inline fuse holders, so im gona buy sum off ebay, but im unsure as how I do it?
I'll have to cut the existing wires and attach them all over again which is fine..
I think the wire goes into the white holder, then they need soldered into place, no?

Also, anybody know what kinda of spade connector goes onto the end of the wires that attach to the main 4 way fuse box?
I was looking and theres male/female.. and different sizes.

thanks for the help
johnny

Edited by djshongo, 09 November 2009 - 12:03 PM.

[Ethel]

The original ones will have a mushroom shaped terminal, that's also the contact for the fuse, crimped on the end of the wire. Most replacement holders I've seen have short wire tails to splice.

Have a look online: Autosparks, Vehicle Wiring Products, Polevolt. You don't have have to use glass fuses just fuses of the same value - but be sure you're comparing the same figures either continuous or blow ratings.

[djshongo]

thanks,

does the wire attached to the new inline fuse holders have to be the same rating as the current one?

Would these ones be OK?

EBAY INLINE FUSES

Edited by djshongo, 09 November 2009 - 02:26 PM.

[djshongo]

does anybody know if its the 20mm ones or 32mm ones i need?
cheers

[Dan]

Auto Sparks sell completely pucker, replacement crimped in-line fuse holders exactly as original with no jumper cable. They also sell the proper, brass Lucar connectors (rather than generic tin blades) for the fusebox and the black solid plastic insulation for them. My experience of the cruddy, cheap electronics shop type fuse holder is that they melt in use.

[djshongo]

these the ones Dan?

fuse holders

[liirge]

http://www.autospark...roducts_id=1262
Are quite nice, waterproof and take a blade fuse! but are quite expensive.

[Dan]

these the ones Dan?

Yes. Get more than you need because you are almost certain to crimp the end onto at least one without remembering the spring or housing!

[djshongo]

these the ones Dan?

Yes. Get more than you need because you are almost certain to crimp the end onto at least one without remembering the spring or housing!

thanks for the tip lol.

one more thing, will this fuse box fit my mini?

FUSE BOX

Off a Triumph, but I think they're the same..

[Dan]

I'm not sure personally, I'll have to check the relevant Triumph wiring. Don't order it yet. That fusebox is made in many different terminal arrangements, the difference is in which of each pair is connected to each other and how they are connected to which fuse. Some of them have grouped fuses.

[taffy1967]

It looks very similar to the correct Mini item: -

Click Me 1

Click Me 2

But I'd be careful if their only selling it as a Triumph part, because if it was suitable for a Mini then I'm sure they'd shout about it?

[djshongo]

yea - might just go for the proper 'MINI' fuse box type to be sure! 12quid delivered aint that bad.

[Dan]

The problem is they all look similar, I believe there are three different terminal arrangements for the side connection types of F7 fuseboxes and just because it has an F7J lid doesn't mean that's what it is. I do have wiring diagrams for the relevant triumph here and I can check for you but if you are happy to buy the real one then go for it.

In fact I seem to remember a thread here in the past from someone who had fitted a generic F7 fusebox from a Land Rover or something and it was causing many problems due to having the wrong terminal layout.

The real thing says Lucas England on the lid, some of these e-bay copies say HTAP. I don't know if that means they are lesser (or better) quality.

[djshongo]

The problem is they all look similar, I believe there are three different terminal arrangements for the side connection types of F7 fuseboxes and just because it has an F7J lid doesn't mean that's what it is. I do have wiring diagrams for the relevant triumph here and I can check for you but if you are happy to buy the real one then go for it.

In fact I seem to remember a thread here in the past from someone who had fitted a generic F7 fusebox from a Land Rover or something and it was causing many problems due to having the wrong terminal layout.

The real thing says Lucas England on the lid, some of these e-bay copies say HTAP. I don't know if that means they are lesser (or better) quality.

Last thing I want is more electrical problems! My car already has a mind of its own! I was on Auto Sparks and they have the originals for 15pound, they also sell the glass fuse holders as you said, so think I may place the order there! cheers

Another thing, the reason Im doing all this is because I have some electrical faults, like sumtimes my fuel gauge and temp gauge work, others it doesnt. Brake lights and rear lights dont work blah blah..
Is there a reason as to why my inline fuses would be warm, to the point that they are too hot too touch? Too much power going through them, or maybe loose connection?

thanks

[taffy1967]

The problem is they all look similar, I believe there are three different terminal arrangements for the side connection types of F7 fuseboxes and just because it has an F7J lid doesn't mean that's what it is. I do have wiring diagrams for the relevant triumph here and I can check for you but if you are happy to buy the real one then go for it.

In fact I seem to remember a thread here in the past from someone who had fitted a generic F7 fusebox from a Land Rover or something and it was causing many problems due to having the wrong terminal layout.

The real thing says Lucas England on the lid, some of these e-bay copies say HTAP. I don't know if that means they are lesser (or better) quality.

Last thing I want is more electrical problems! My car already has a mind of its own! I was on Auto Sparks and they have the originals for 15pound, they also sell the glass fuse holders as you said, so think I may place the order there! cheers

Another thing, the reason Im doing all this is because I have some electrical faults, like sumtimes my fuel gauge and temp gauge work, others it doesnt. Brake lights and rear lights dont work blah blah..
Is there a reason as to why my inline fuses would be warm, to the point that they are too hot too touch? Too much power going through them, or maybe loose connection?

thanks

A new fuse box should cure most of your electrical problems. I recently replaced mine after 17 years of faithful service and I was told to coat the rear terminals in Vaseline to stop them rusting out any time soon. Don't use Cooper Grease though as that could cause short circuiting.

As for the in-line fuses, well replace them and then take it from there.