11 replies to this topic

[warning634]

Hi all

Having just pulled out the engine, gearbox and front subframe on my mini, I have now noticed that it is fitted with ripspeed hi-lo's which as you know are adjusted by a long hex-rod. The thing is the tower bolts fitted to the subframe are standard ones and therefore do not have the hole in the center of them! >

Can anyone tell me where I can get a set of tower bolts (and i'm talking about the large single type) with the hole through the center of them.

Many thanks

Kevin

[taffy1967]

I don't think such tower bolts exist?

The long hex rod was originally designed for pre-1976 Minis, which had twin tower bolts each side and a hole in the centre. Basically for the pre-1976 non rubber mounted front subframes.

For the rear, I believe owners used to cut out holes in the rear panel so the hex rod could be inserted?

Edited by taffy1967, 12 November 2009 - 02:25 PM.

[l_jonez]

as taffy said i've never seen any.

[warning634]

I don't think such tower bolts exist?

The long hex rod was originally designed for pre-1976 Minis, which had twin tower bolts each side and a hole in the centre. Basically for the pre-1976 non rubber mounted front subframes.

For the rear, I believe owners used to cut out holes in the rear panel so the hex rod could be inserted?

That does make sense, as the car is a 1974 and has had holes cut out in the rear panel! looks like some one has changed the subframe then, dont you need to stregnthen up the section which accepts the large single bolt? when you change from an early to late type subframe??

So it's either change to the normal set of Hi-Lo's (nut and bolt job) or convert it back to older style subframe.!

Out of the two types of front subframes fitted to mini's is one of them considered better then the other?? (say for competition use)

Many thanks

Kevin

[taffy1967]

I don't think such tower bolts exist?

The long hex rod was originally designed for pre-1976 Minis, which had twin tower bolts each side and a hole in the centre. Basically for the pre-1976 non rubber mounted front subframes.

For the rear, I believe owners used to cut out holes in the rear panel so the hex rod could be inserted?

That does make sense, as the car is a 1974 and has had holes cut out in the rear panel! looks like some one has changed the subframe then, dont you need to stregnthen up the section which accepts the large single bolt? when you change from an early to late type subframe??

So it's either change to the normal set of Hi-Lo's (nut and bolt job) or convert it back to older style subframe.!

Out of the two types of front subframes fitted to mini's is one of them considered better then the other?? (say for competition use)

Many thanks

Kevin

Being a 1974 model means it's a MK3 and it should have the solid mounted subframe. So a later type subframe has obviously been fitted, but I'd have thought the bulkhead would need modifying as a result?

As for the best type of subframe, well I personally prefer the pre-1976 solid mounted subframe, because the handling is far better as there's no rubber mounts to upset things.

You can solid mount a post-1976 subframe with steel or polyurethane mounts though. But many claim you get more noise or vibration than you would on an original pre-1976 type?

Edited by taffy1967, 12 November 2009 - 02:42 PM.

[Bungle]

i have this set up on my 1990 mini

i just jack the car up remove the subframe bolt tweek the hilo with the long hex-rod refit the bolt and lower the mini back to the floor

never had any problems doing this and it's not as if you have to adjust the hilo daily

for the rear yes i have a small hole covered with a rubber grommet to access the rear hilo

[Dan]

As Bungle says, all you have to do is remove the large bolt while you make the adjustment. It won't upset anything as the car will obviously be stationary at the time.

Your car's bulkhead crossmember should have been modified by welding solid tubes through it to support the large bolts.

[icklemini]

I can sell you some of them bolts...

basically they are the standard bolt drilled through.. kinda standard practice on the racers...

[rosco454]

I have them on mine,like icklemini says they are fairly common on race cars.That said its an easy enough job to whip the standard tower bolt out.

[warning634]

Cheers for all of the advice guys.

Just trying to decide if I should change the front subframe to an early type. The subframe that is fitted has been jacked up lots of times on the front section of it and is now no longer straight! I have managed to find the subframe from my old mini rally car which I can purchase for a good price. On the other hand do I just stick to what I have got

Jacking points, have any of you guys added on jacking points to make it easy to jack the car up, rather then trying to find a jacking point under the car. If you have how have you done it and can you post some pics!

Many thanks

Kevin

[taffy1967]

Just jack it up via the lower front subframe flats which are either side of the gearbox.

Of if the jack is too big, you can jack it up vie the front tie-bar mounts. But be careful not to bend the tie-bars themselves.

Original tie-bars are like chocolate and easily bent. Heavy duty adjustable tie-bars are far better.

[Guess-Works.com]

The logbook may say it's a 74' but as many of us know, does not mean the shell is...

And As Dan has said above, to adjust, remove the tower bolt, don't forget the subframe is still attached in 4 other places and has the weight of the shell sitting on it.... It' aint gonna move...