Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Automatic Gearbox Problems


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 seanmaskill

seanmaskill

    Passed Test

  • Noobies
  • PipPip
  • 29 posts

Posted 30 November 2009 - 07:55 PM

hi i have just bought my first mini, a Rover Mini Mayfair 1994 1275cc with an automatic gearbox.

the gears are changing up far too quick, its in 4th gear before 30mph (on a flat road), and when its doing 40mph its in 4th gear and reving at 3000rpm which seems far too much.

does anyone know what the problem is? and could you possible tell me how to fix it?

any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks

#2 Joloke08

Joloke08

    Not banned but still weird

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 828 posts

Posted 30 November 2009 - 07:58 PM

hi i have just bought my first mini, a Rover Mini Mayfair 1994 1275cc with an automatic gearbox.

the gears are changing up far too quick, its in 4th gear before 30mph (on a flat road), and when its doing 40mph its in 4th gear and reving at 3000rpm which seems far too much.

does anyone know what the problem is? and could you possible tell me how to fix it?

any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks


They generally do get to forth by 30 its just the way they are :)
We Have a similar Auto
Theres a PM on route to you check your inbox :wub:

Huggz
Jodie :(

#3 danie garry

danie garry

    I love BMW minis

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,296 posts
  • Location: malmo
  • Local Club: IMOC-Irish Mini Owners Club

Posted 30 November 2009 - 08:36 PM

keep your foot planted and it doesnt go straight to fourth, mines still in second at 45....power!!!!!!

#4 Nelson92

Nelson92

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 325 posts

Posted 30 November 2009 - 09:06 PM

that engine has 2 change up points; one when you're not trying to go fast, and one for when you are.
it should be in 4th at quite low speed and just use the torque from the engine with no problem.
when you want to accelerate faster keep your foot hard down. remove any carpets and mats blocking the pedal.
it should be able to get right down to the metal almost. if you want more power just get a 'stage 1' put on it.
i can pm you the place that did mine if you need.

Edited by Nelson92, 30 November 2009 - 09:06 PM.


#5 seanmaskill

seanmaskill

    Passed Test

  • Noobies
  • PipPip
  • 29 posts

Posted 01 December 2009 - 12:42 AM

thanks for all your information, and thanks for the invite jodie.

it just seemed to be changing too quick but if its normal then thats great.

only problem is a stage 1 kit isn't really an option for me as im a young driver and don't think the insurance companies would approve. and when i do put my foot down the gear box slipps between 3rd and 4th gear, it doesn't do this when driving steadier only when i put my foot down.

i have heard that you can tighten the bands to stop autos slipping. is this not too difficult to do at home?

thanks in advance

Sean

#6 Nelson92

Nelson92

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 325 posts

Posted 01 December 2009 - 09:06 AM

thanks for all your information, and thanks for the invite jodie.

it just seemed to be changing too quick but if its normal then thats great.

only problem is a stage 1 kit isn't really an option for me as im a young driver and don't think the insurance companies would approve. and when i do put my foot down the gear box slipps between 3rd and 4th gear, it doesn't do this when driving steadier only when i put my foot down.

i have heard that you can tighten the bands to stop autos slipping. is this not too difficult to do at home?

thanks in advance

Sean


I try not to mess with mine. :( you're better asking on the forum jodie linked you to.
Some slip under full power is to be expected as it's not a new car.
Try to let off the gas a little bit as it goes up so you're not worsening any slip.
I understand about the stage one + age don't worry.
Maybe use the car standard for a year and then mod it.

just thought i'd mention my car didn't run well when i got it for a few reasons:
1) the catalytic converter was badly damaged from bottoming out, i had a de-cat pipe put on as my car is on a 'j' plate.
2) it needed a tune badly.
3) i had to replace loads of cheap parts like sparts, HT leads, Dizzy cap and rotor arm and had the needle changed in the carb.
4) it needed a good oil change with a flush aswell to get the 17 years of neglect out of the block.
remember the auto box uses the engine oil which you can drain from the sump. autos really really need good clean oil (doesn't have to be expensive oil) and they take larger canister filters.

look at the above on yours and i bet you'll find more power and smoothness.

#7 Joloke08

Joloke08

    Not banned but still weird

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 828 posts

Posted 01 December 2009 - 09:37 AM

thanks for all your information, and thanks for the invite jodie.

it just seemed to be changing too quick but if its normal then thats great.

only problem is a stage 1 kit isn't really an option for me as im a young driver and don't think the insurance companies would approve. and when i do put my foot down the gear box slipps between 3rd and 4th gear, it doesn't do this when driving steadier only when i put my foot down.

i have heard that you can tighten the bands to stop autos slipping. is this not too difficult to do at home?

thanks in advance

Sean


I try not to mess with mine. :withstupid: you're better asking on the forum jodie linked you to.
Some slip under full power is to be expected as it's not a new car.
Try to let off the gas a little bit as it goes up so you're not worsening any slip.
I understand about the stage one + age don't worry.
Maybe use the car standard for a year and then mod it.

just thought i'd mention my car didn't run well when i got it for a few reasons:
1) the catalytic converter was badly damaged from bottoming out, i had a de-cat pipe put on as my car is on a 'j' plate.
2) it needed a tune badly.
3) i had to replace loads of cheap parts like sparts, HT leads, Dizzy cap and rotor arm and had the needle changed in the carb.
4) it needed a good oil change with a flush aswell to get the 17 years of neglect out of the block.
remember the auto box uses the engine oil which you can drain from the sump. autos really really need good clean oil (doesn't have to be expensive oil) and they take larger canister filters.

look at the above on yours and i bet you'll find more power and smoothness.


All very good advice there Nelson :thumbsup:
Boris has had his fair share of problems and as you say sometimes its just a case of raplacing silly little things will give a huge improvement ;)
The only thing i wouldnt advise is Engine Flush as this can often cause problems itself :(

Im not saying dont flush the engine but use 20w50 oil to flush the engine ;)
As the Torque Convertor hold oil you cannot drain all the oil so if you use Engine flush the engine will retain a certain ammount of engine flush and you will never get that out short of dismantling the transmission and draining the convertor :dontgetit:

If you use a half decent budget 20w50 run the engine up to temperature then drain that youll get more of the dirty old oil that the engine retains :thumbsup:
If it has been neglected you may have to do this several times :(

Then once satisfied you have flushed it replace with a high quality 20w50 :thumbsup:

I believe you can to a degree adjust the gearbox to alter the change up points but you need to ask an expert about this because i dont know the exact procedure.

Once you have nice clean oil in there change it reguarly i suggest 1500-2000 miles max this may seem over the top but its suggested you change the oil on Autos every 3000miles anyhow but i find the oil is filthy at 3000 :(

In Austrailia Mini Matics came with instructions to change the Oil every 60 days regardless of milage :-

Huggz
Jodie :)




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users