7 replies to this topic

[Angrybeaver 1985]

Hi

I have 1996 copper SPI in BRG with white roof. I bought it in may this year with the idea of it being a little project to tune up. I have receipts for an engine rebuild with new rings and bearings, new idle and 1st gear and fitting of a new cam and crank (Unknown what type was told it was a kent cam of some sort)
it has also had a sports exhaust fitted at some point. with a K&N that sits on top of where the original filter sits (is this correct for a spi?)

My question is what engine bolt on mods can you recommend as a next step?

I was thinking a Stage 3 head with uprated rockers of some sort but will the ratio be dependant on what cam it has?

I was also thinking of a mapable ECU or an uprated one. I read on another thread that a metro GTA is compatable?

My last question is what lower end mods would you recommend for these kinds of upgrades? would a stronger clutch be required? or diff??

I am new to mini tuning so any help anyone can give would be great.... in the long run i hope to get it to around 90bhp.

Cheers

Attached Files

•  DSC00061.JPG   335.29K   13 downloads

[Sprocket]

There are so many threads with all the information you need, all you need to do is search a little.

However one piece of advice I will give you is that the GTA ECU will not produce any power unless the engine has been modified in such a way that it consumes more air. Then and only then when you are reaching 90hp will the GTA possibly give you a better result. There are not many 90hp SPi engines

[sidneyg]

Hello Mr Beaver, scroll down the thread list a tiny bit, I have just fitted a stage 2/3 head. (MG Metro head (35.6 inlet 29.3 exhaust valves), bronze valve guides, double springs, light skim and some sensible DIY Port work..Im calling it a stage 2andahalf!) Also fitted the minisport 1.5 ratio roller tip rockers, and maniflow standard bore LCB, exhaust and K&N 'induction kit'. Cat left in place. It has made a hell of a difference to my car, I very much doubt im going to be anywhere near the magic 90bhp... yet... but she pulls like a train now, and very little hassle to fit it all. Sweet looking mini by the way!

Edited by sidneyg, 07 December 2009 - 09:22 AM.

[Angrybeaver 1985]

Hello Mr Beaver, scroll down the thread list a tiny bit, I have just fitted a stage 2/3 head. (MG Metro head (35.6 inlet 29.3 exhaust valves), bronze valve guides, double springs, light skim and some sensible DIY Port work..Im calling it a stage 2andahalf!) Also fitted the minisport 1.5 ratio roller tip rockers, and maniflow standard bore LCB, exhaust and K&N 'induction kit'. Cat left in place. It has made a hell of a difference to my car, I very much doubt im going to be anywhere near the magic 90bhp... yet... but she pulls like a train now, and very little hassle to fit it all. Sweet looking mini by the way!

Thanks. You might be able to give me some advice if you drive an spi. I have seen a cylinder head with 45mm inlet valves and 38mm exhaust for sale. Do you think this is too large for a 1275 engine?
Do you know if any 1275 head will fit an spi or is there any difference?

Cheers

[Sprocket]

I have seen a cylinder head with 45mm inlet valves and 38mm exhaust for sale. Do you think this is too large for a 1275 engine?


Cheers

That is clearly not an A series head as the sum of the valve sizes is larger than the largest overbore of any A series engine

Edited by Sprocket, 08 December 2009 - 05:41 PM.

[Angrybeaver 1985]

I have seen a cylinder head with 45mm inlet valves and 38mm exhaust for sale. Do you think this is too large for a 1275 engine?


Cheers

That is clearly not an A series head as the sum of the valve sizes is larger than the largest overbore of any A series engine

I see...... Sort of.
So is there a specific type of tuned SPI head or will any a series head fit her?

[Sprocket]

Buy the best 35/29mm valve injection head that money can buy and you wont go far wrong, dont bother your self with stage numbers, the really mean nothing when comparing.

You can use any head, but when most engines are road engines that will see some miles before overhaul, you want reliabilty as well, and the 35/29mm valves will give you that, the real secret is in the porting. Also, an 'injection' head has dowel rings to locate the inlet manifold. Non injection heads will not have these and you would need to find another way to locate the manifold and it would also be advisable to port the manifold to match the head. The last bit is what they call 'Blueprinting' Blueprinting is the process of fine tuning, manipulating and getting every aspect of the engine to compliment and work perfectly with each other.

[Angrybeaver 1985]

Buy the best 35/29mm valve injection head that money can buy and you wont go far wrong, dont bother your self with stage numbers, the really mean nothing when comparing.

You can use any head, but when most engines are road engines that will see some miles before overhaul, you want reliabilty as well, and the 35/29mm valves will give you that, the real secret is in the porting. Also, an 'injection' head has dowel rings to locate the inlet manifold. Non injection heads will not have these and you would need to find another way to locate the manifold and it would also be advisable to port the manifold to match the head. The last bit is what they call 'Blueprinting' Blueprinting is the process of fine tuning, manipulating and getting every aspect of the engine to compliment and work perfectly with each other.

So it'll need a rolling road tune after a new head is fitted then?
Can you tell me if it makes a difference what Cam is fitted when i am uprating the rockers? I.e if the cam is already high lift does this effect what rockers can be fitted? i ask because i was told it has a kent cam but i don't know what type.
i have read a one of your posts (but can't find it now) about fitting stage 3 head, 1.5 rockers and better final drive (what ratio would you suggest?) as a start off, Will this give me a reasonable acceleration increase? My mini is only a weekend machine so its not going to be used everyday so fuel econemy is not a massive concern.
I have fitted heads before but on mazda engines (i'm a fork lift engineer) but as far as mini engines go im a novice but im will be doing most work myself. Is head fitting just a straight swap? Will charging the diff be a difficult task for a novice.....
by the way Thanks for your help so far.