18 replies to this topic

[jaystar89]

1994
mini cooper

Basically the one of the suspension trumpets wont stay in. Ive just built a new rear subframe (well its second hand but new to me) and the trumpets larger end keeps falling out of place whenever the radious arm moves.
The other one stays in fine.

Ive also got a bit of a problem with the brake pipes as they look as though they've been cut. (the little copper pipe has been cut and im assuming it fits to the big black thicker pipe - all attached on the subframe) - are these easy to replace and how much are we talking?

cheers

[orcadian]

Hi,
Do you mean that the trumpet large end falls out when the subframe is fitted to the car and the damper is fitted? If it's only when the frame is off the car, or the damper has yet to be fitted, then that is quite normal. As soon as you fit it to the car and connect the damper, all will be fine - just make sure you enter the large end into the rubber as you lift the arm to connect the damper. As far as brake pipes are concerned, it might be better to replace all of the metal and black rubber pipes, unless you KNOW that they are almost new. The are only a few pounds each but add up a bit when you see the total including VAT and delivery.

Regards,

[jaydee]

Ive also got a bit of a problem with the brake pipes as they look as though they've been cut. (the little copper pipe has been cut and im assuming it fits to the big black thicker pipe - all attached on the subframe) - are these easy to replace and how much are we talking?

Thats normal, swap the odd rubber hoses for some goodridge braided hoses. About fittings, take care of the torque setting note stated on the box and you cant go wrong, its not difficult, you'll just need to bleed the system after fitting.

[Spitz]

[quote name='jaystar89' date='Dec 22 2009, 07:10 AM' post='1678342']
1994
mini cooper

Basically the one of the suspension trumpets wont stay in. Ive just built a new rear subframe (well its second hand but new to me) and the trumpets larger end keeps falling out of place whenever the radious arm moves.
The other one stays in fine.

Is there a chance the previous owner has cut down the trumpets? ( lowering the ride height )

[THE STIG]

Is there a chance the previous owner has cut down the trumpets? ( lowering the ride height )

have you read through the privious answers?

its already been stated the the rear cones and trumpets wont stay in place till the radius arm is lifted and conected to the shock aborber its normal that they do it

the cone is just a tighter fit on the frame on the other side holding it in

untill you lift and conect the raduis arm the distance between the cone face and the knukle joint in the radius arm is greater than the length of the cone and trumpet thats how its designd otherwise you would not be able to get them out of the subframe

[jaystar89]

Is there a chance the previous owner has cut down the trumpets? ( lowering the ride height )

have you read through the privious answers?

its already been stated the the rear cones and trumpets wont stay in place till the radius arm is lifted and conected to the shock aborber its normal that they do it

the cone is just a tighter fit on the frame on the other side holding it in

untill you lift and conect the raduis arm the distance between the cone face and the knukle joint in the radius arm is greater than the length of the cone and trumpet thats how its designd otherwise you would not be able to get them out of the subframe

ah ok so its meant to be like that? as i was a little nervous that something was wrong.

im going to be replacing the bolts on the frame as well as the bolts to fit the car to the frame.

Any other tips or advice to an easier installation.

thanks again for the help

[jaystar89]

Could any one actually give me a little guild to what i need?

I need the copper pipes, connectors, the little 4 way junction thing (lol) etc.

The hand brake is fine but id like to replace the actually break pipes.

Is there a kit available? ive had an unsuccessful look on ebay.

thank you

Edited by jaystar89, 23 December 2009 - 10:36 AM.

[jaystar89]

ok well on searching I think ill purchase these items;

mini cooper/mini copper brake pipe set;
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

CLASSIC MINI NEW GOODRIDGE BRAIDED BRAKE HOSE KIT;
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Mini,Front to rear brake pipe in copper,Brand new;
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Brake pipe T piece M10 threads
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT



Any advice would be deeply appreciated

Jay

[jaydee]

Those bits are for converting the original brake piping to reroute them inside the car when rallying.
Personally, i'd get the whole lot, even though essentially you need the goodridge kit, the whole conversion its not necessary on a road car.
You really need a bias valve to fit before the T pipe.

[jaystar89]

Those bits are for converting the original brake piping to reroute them inside the car when rallying.
Personally, i'd get the whole lot, even though essentially you need the goodridge kit, the whole conversion its not necessary on a road car.
You really need a bias valve to fit before the T pipe.

Forgive my stupidity but im not sure i totally follow. What your saying is that the goodridge kit that i have selected is more than needed?

Basicly what im trying to achieve is a full replacement of the copper piping for the rear brakes.

Any more advice to what i need?

thank you again mate.

*edit

Ok well i checked out the bias valves and theyr're really expensive and totally over budget what I had set aside.

I really just want a good brake pipe system - not fussy about if its for rallying - its really to get the mini through its mot and make the car safe. I like the idea of replacing the rubber hoses with the goodridge braided hoses.

Edited by jaystar89, 23 December 2009 - 11:47 AM.

[jaydee]

You can simply swap the rubber hoses for the goodridge ones, will make your braking system a lot safer.
The copper pipes, t piece and bias valve you find on ebay are needed if you want to swap all the brake piping lot, thats not needed on a road car, but essential on a rally application car.
This kit is what you need if you dont want to spend silly money:
CLASSIC MINI NEW GOODRIDGE BRAIDED BRAKE HOSE KIT;
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

[jaystar89]

You can simply swap the rubber hoses for the goodridge ones, will make your braking system a lot safer.
The copper pipes, t piece and bias valve you find on ebay are needed if you want to swap all the brake piping lot, thats not needed on a road car, but essential on a rally application car.
This kit is what you need if you dont want to spend silly money:
CLASSIC MINI NEW GOODRIDGE BRAIDED BRAKE HOSE KIT;
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Ahh thank you.

that ebay link doesn't work but is this the kit?

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Ah im glad i don't need the bias valve!

Edited by jaystar89, 23 December 2009 - 01:08 PM.

[jaydee]

Yes thats the kit.
You need a bias valve, and also the standard system have one fitted to the bulkhead, thats because brake are biased 60% at the front and 40% at the back on a standard mini.
If you decided to stick with the original steel pipes, and you're gonna replace only the rubber hoses to calipers and rear cylinders, then you will keep the standard valve and no need to replace it, unless it is stuck.
hope this helps

[jaystar89]

Ah ok.

Well basically i want to replace the the metal pipes because theyre in a bit of a bad nick.

Im only replacing the rear pipes for now. I phoned minimedics off ebay and they said I would need the front to rear pipe, the rear pipe kit and the T peice and that was all.

im a bit confused about this valve lol. I may have read it wrong but im sure you said that they arent needed on a road car?

The copper pipes, t piece and bias valve you find on ebay are needed if you want to swap all the brake piping lot, thats not needed on a road car, but essential on a rally application car.
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Is that me miss reading along the way?

Edited by jaystar89, 23 December 2009 - 02:22 PM.

[jaydee]

Read the whole first post mate..

Those bits are for converting the original brake piping to reroute them inside the car when rallying.
Personally, i'd get the whole lot, even though essentially you need the goodridge kit, the whole conversion its not necessary on a road car.
You really need a bias valve to fit before the T pipe.

and then my second reply was:
"The copper pipes, t piece and bias valve you find on ebay are needed if you want to swap all the brake piping lot, which is not needed on a road car, but essential on a rally application car. "

In poor words:
You already have a valve, if you're replacing the whole piping then you can either buy a new valve, or reuse the one you have (but i dont reccomend it)
If you want to replace only the steel piping going from the valve to rear brakes, then you will screw the new copper pipe into the standard bias valve you already have on the bulkhead, in place of the old steel piping.
Now have a good look at your brake system, and you'll understand what im talking about.
Hope this helps