11 replies to this topic

[baz_D69]

As per the title, the car in question is a 1968 Austin Mini (mk2), the indicators don't flash, just stay lit. I tried to trace the wires, but they *seem* to go from the steering column straight to the lights/indicator light on the speedo. I want to test/replace the relay, but without knowing where it is supposed to be, I'm not going to have much luck

Also, did the mk2's come with hazard's? I can't see a hazard switch anywhere?

Finally, the clutch needs to be pumped 2 or 3 times before it will fully disengage, what are the common causes of this?

Cheers!

[pdaykin]

As per the title, the car in question is a 1968 Austin Mini (mk2), the indicators don't flash, just stay lit. I tried to trace the wires, but they *seem* to go from the steering column straight to the lights/indicator light on the speedo. I want to test/replace the relay, but without knowing where it is supposed to be, I'm not going to have much luck

Also, did the mk2's come with hazard's? I can't see a hazard switch anywhere?

Finally, the clutch needs to be pumped 2 or 3 times before it will fully disengage, what are the common causes of this?

Cheers!

Being so old, the electrics can be subject to change.

The indicator relay is most likely to be a small, silver rectangular box located in the engine bay. It is usually near the divers side bulkhead. IIRC the Mk2 had two lucar type connectors on to it.

The earlier style was a cylindrical relay attached to the drivers side bulkhead stiffener with 3 lucar connectors.

Mk2's did not come with hazards for the UK market.

The clutch could be a faulty slave cylinder or master cylinder. I'd start by changing the slave cylinder first - the last time I bought one it was cheaper and easier to replace

[baz_D69]

Thanks for the pdaykin. I did see a small silver rectangular box on the firewall, with two connectors on it. One had 2 green wires going to it, the other I can't recall. I remember it saying something along the lines of 2 x 21W + 5 (that might not be it exactly), and it was a lucas unit. The replacement I got is the earlier cylinder type with 3 connections. I'll have to get another. Do you know of a wiring schematic for the relay?

Thanks again!

[Timmy Clubman]

Electrics? sorry, your on your own with that one. Me and electrics dont get on with each other.
My clutch was exacly the same not so long ago - the problem - the stop bolt type thing (duno its technical name)
that the clutch arm goes back and rests on went your foots off had rattled loose or something and had wound its self in.
nothing noticable as the arm just goes back even further to touch it, but grab the arm and pull it Really hard away from the bolt and if
it comes away abit, the bolt needs winding out a little - thats all that was wrong with mine, may be worth checking
before you start replacing slaves and having to do the dredded clutch bleeding

[baz_D69]

Thanks Timmy Clubman, I'll try that! Where IS the bleed nipple for the clutch? Bleeding was my first thought when I had a poke around earlier today, but couldn't see a nipple anywhere!

[Timmy Clubman]

the bleed nipple is on the back of the slave cylinder (im 99% sure its on the back, itll be on the slave cylinder some were)
there easy enuf to spot

[baz_D69]

Sorry for the newbie questions (I'm new to mini's!), but where is the slave? I've got the old metal cylinder style master cylinder, but didn't see a slave.

Yes, the relevant haynes is in the post

[Timmy Clubman]

theres the clutch arm on the left, at the top of that theres a short rod atatched, the slave is on the other end of that rod

[dklawson]

To locate the slave cylinder, stand in front of the car and look at the engine. On the left side of the engine you'll see an aluminum housing and there will be a steel arm on it pointing up. The clutch slave will be pushing against that arm. There should be a spring between that arm and a little clip that is looped over the bleed nipple on the slave. Bleeding is a good idea if the car is new to you even if it's not the cause of the problem.

There are two adjustments to the clutch. There is a stop bolt for the arm and pair of nuts on the plunger for the release bearing. After you've located the clutch arm and slave post back and we'll walk you through adjusting the stop bolt and the plunger. In particular if the stop bolt for the arm is out of adjustment the clutch may not release/engage until the pedal is almost on the floor.

[tommy13]

You should find the flasher unit at the rear of the speedometer. You should remove the air filter and look in the area where all the wires are behind the speedo. It is a shiny aluminium unit oblong in shape and about the size of 2 dice. If it is the original Lucas unit it will have the part no 8FL36 or 8FL42 on it, and has 2 wires, one green and one light green.Often it just hangs on the wires or may push into a spring clip. It is not the unit attached to the back of the speedo with a screw.
You can find wiring diagrams here
http://www.minimania...n_Line_1362.htm

The mark 2 did not have hazard flashers.

[tommy13]

Apologies, just reread the posts and you have already found the unit. 2x21+5 indicates a unit designed for a system with side repeaters. This doesn't really matter if you dont have them but the flashing rate may be affected. UK requires 60 to 90 flashes per minute.

Edited by tommy13, 22 December 2009 - 10:04 PM.

[baz_D69]

Thanks again for your help guys, I'll bleed the clutch tomorrow and set the stop bolt. Will see if I can get another relay for the car, I don't have side repeaters on mine.