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Lowered Spax


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#1 MIRVINE11

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 12:43 PM

Austin Mayfair mk3 1275cc

Hi guys, got my suspension kit through today from Minisport. I ordered the standard ride shocks with adjusta rides all round. They have sent me lowered ride shocks. Now this might be a good thing, as i wanted to lower her a little bit, but im worried the lowered spax will force me to have it lowerd too much. It will never carry passengers in the back so that might help your advice.

Looking for a low-ish sporty look, but trying to keep some comfort as the car is only a toy, but will be driven to work and back on some occassions to show it off. Should i stick with that they sent, or send them back for the standard ride?

Dont want to be faffing around with speed humps and worrying about th underside grating on anything highe than a pebble

cheers guys.

Edited by MIRVINE11, 02 January 2010 - 12:48 PM.


#2 Darkscamp

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 12:50 PM

stick with the lowered ones. on my old mini i ran them when the car was rammed full of 2 adults and camping gear, not to mention the roof box on top as well.

you dont need it slammed to run lowered shocks

#3 nicksuth

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 12:53 PM

HILO - ADJUSTABLE MINI SUSPENSION FITTING INSTRUCTIONS

By Bradley

Begin date 20-Dec-2005 End date 20-Dec-2010

Suitable for all Minis with “dry” rubber cone suspension, including vans, Travellers and Riley/ Wolseley saloons.

General Information
These specialized and RAC FIA homologated suspension components are designed to allow the ride height of all Minis with “dry” suspension to be easily adjusted. In addition, the diameter of the rubber cone support lip is larger than the standard cone to increase effective spring rate.
This makes them suitable for fitment in all the following cases:-
ROAD CARS - For load carrying and towing to optimise handling and adjustment.
RALLY CARS - Increase height for rough forestry stages then lower for smooth tarmac.
RACE CARS - Stiffen and lower the suspension as far as possible but can still be raised for bumpy circuits.

INSTALLATION
Fitment of the Hilo unit should prove a straight forward replacement of the existing aluminium cones. Be careful to ensure the hole (A) drilled in the side of the alloy cones is accessible once fitted to prevent the cone rotating when it is being adjusted. (the two plastic blanking plugs should be inserted in the rear units). The only extra work necessary if you are using the old adjustment method of hexagonal rods is to drill two holes in the rear valance through which the long hexagonal section rod may be inserted for quick adjustment. (Only possible on Minis up to 1990).

ADJUSTMENT
The threaded bolt (B) in the Hilo unit has a total travel of 33.5mm. This theoretically allows 100mm of adjustment on the front suspension and 167mm on the rear although this will be limited by other suspension and bodywork considerations. This permits the car to be raised or lowered as required.
Before carring out any adjustment the lock nuts © must first be released. Adjustment of the front units is then acheived by use of a spanner on Bolt Head (D) or passing a shorter hexgonal rod through the existing hole in the bulkhead crossmember (it may prove easier to first remove the bonnet) and rotating the rod with a suitable ring spanner. Great care should be taken to ensure the car is supported on the front subframe before removing the locating bolts and cover plate or single central locating bolt. Failure to do this could result in the subframe location being disturbed. The rear units arer simply adjusted by the same method or passing a longer hexagonal rod through the hole already drilled in the rear apron. Both front and rear units are easily adjusted however by turning the bolt heads (D) with a spanner. If the cones start to rotate when being adjusted this may be preveneted by inserting a rod or screwdriver in the drain hole (A).

VERY IMPORTANT
The Hilo unit should only be adjusted once the car has been jacked up. Do not try to force the bolt round once it has reached the end of its travel in eather direction. If the Hilos have been fitted for some time or used in very dirty conditions it is a good idea to clean and lubricate the exposed thread before adjusting .
If using very low ride heights the rubber cone may become displaced when the vehicle is jacked up. In addition, shorter shock absorbers should be fitted to prevent any possibility of them “bottoming out”. When ride heights are adjusted to extremes it is advisable to reset the steering geometry and wheel alignment.

#4 nicksuth

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 01:04 PM

11 November 2004 (revised: 06 December 2004)

DAMPERS (SHOCK ABSORBERS) 15th September 2004

By keith

Begin date 07-Jul-2005 End date 08-Jul-2050

Technical lowdown on dampers (shock absorbers),what to look for and what to buy

Having introduced the fairly unknown Kayaba (KYB) range to the mini market in 1997 I am still amazed how gullible people are when buying cheap dampers. I have tried every type popular type available in the last 35 years, Armstrong including their adjustables, Girling, Lockheed, Koni, Spax., Avo, Bilsteins, Monroe, Boge, Gabriel, Sachs and the last arrival G Max.

The best to date were probably the very expensive special design Koni Sport twin tube adjustables that we had built for the Monte Carlo Rally in 1994/5. I also used the spare set on my 8 port car as they were the only type that erased the wheel tramping I was experiencing. You get what you pay for? For a non adjustable mono tube type I rate Bilsteins very highly but like Konis are expensive, but again you get what you pay for. The essence of a quality damper is to upgrade its performance by using a more sophisticated higher quality component build, by way of the valving, piston, rod and seals etc along with an extra performance upgrade to improve the cars road holding. Cheap upgrades simply make the damper stiffer to make it feel like an improvement. Often this is not long lasting since poor grade oil/gas tends to degrade very quickly when the damper is stiffer because it gets hotter. You can however make a cheap damper with quality oil/gas components in relatively low volumes, but Kayaba only manage it because they are the largest manufacturer of dampers on this planet and have all the facilities and technology to mass produce millions of components to share amongst their range.

Some companies who claim their damper is 25% up-rated really do not help, because as you might ask, what are they a 25% upgrade on ?, They don’t tell you that, especially if they are not UK based and only make one damper, therefore they have nothing to compare it with.. If they stake their claim on a standard Mini damper, which one are they talking about as Rover/Unipart have changed suppliers many times. Many of these sort of claims are speculative and usually unproven. For reference, Unipart presently supply Sachs;

On high pressure gas filled dampers the piston mounted valve will have a dual duty, dealing with both bump and rebound control, it therefore has to be very well developed, and made of quality componentry. In this case, the nitrogen is introduced under high pressure-typically 25-30 bar-to the base of the damper. A floating piston is used to separate the oil and gas. When assembled, the air gap is completely removed by this design, vastly improving damper response virtually eliminating aeration and foaming. Nitrogen is slightly compressible. Combining the effects this has with superior valve design, it is feasible to produce a “self adjusting” damper that can out perform many cheap adjustable types. Essentially the self adjustment comes about from the gas being compressed, the more the damper is loaded (by either weight in the car or by cornering forces),it consequently increases the damping performance. The easy test for checking if a gas damper is pressurised ,is that when unbolted it will open up to its full length of travel automatically.

The quality of the piston rod which should be micro smooth and usually hard chromed for long life reliability of the oils seals, is the most important factor.
Multi lip seals and self sealing packing keeps oil in, contamination out, even under repeated hard use. Finally there is a need to minimise foaming which keeps the shock absorber fade free. All these things can only be done by large and leading manufacturers who have test facilities and resources to use performance quality parts as standard in mass production of all their range.

I have been testing Twin Tube Gas dampers which are 8 point on car adjustable on my Twin point mini and although made for standard height they appear to also function perfectly with the car lowered some 35mm. It is superbly priced and will no doubt gradually replace our Koni range. Apart from this new damper which seems exceptional, my summary of current best buys and performers are:

Oil filled ; standard replacement KYB part number front 442001, rear 442002442002

Unipart boxed Sachs part number front GSA71542, rear GSA71543

Gas; the expensive Bilstein , front only C-STR309
the well priced KYB 25% upgrade part number front 342001,rear 342002
and my favourite the KYB Gasadjust part number front 552018, rear 552019

Gas adjustable ;Mini Spares Spax and Gaz are both 28 point adjustable and are both well known and proven in the Mini fraternity for both standard and competition use.
• Gaz front standard height C-STN231, rear C-STN233
• Gaz front lowered height C-STN236, rear C-STN237
• Spax front standard height C-STR306, rear C-STN307
• Spax front lowered height C-STR304, rear C-STR305

Oil adjustable; Koni 20% upgrade and Koni Sport 35% upgrade although still available will Probably be phased out and replaced by 743039 and 743040.
• Koni Front standard height C-STR1675, rear C-STR1794
• Koni Front lowered height C-STR1717, rear C-STR1795
• Koni Sport standard height C-STR1675SPORT, rear C-STR1794SPORT
• Koni Sport lowered height C-STR1717SPORT, rear C-STR1795SPORTd

Twin Tube gas adjustable; my new favourite .Evolution AGX front 743039, rear 743040

Those I have not mentioned or included are either obsolete or not notable enough with no prejudice against any particular manufacturer.

Koni and Gaz have a small plus point,which is that they are both repairable but nobody ever seems to take this action.
Spax latest October 2004 news letter claims that they now use triple oil seals for the piston and double seals for the adjuster to improve weather resistance. Adjustment has been made even easier with better click definition. Damping characteristics have been dramatically improved with better low speed ride quality(no more upset picnic baskets) and better high speed performance (faster track times) Their other claim is that they have a quieter damper operation(no exra squeaks to contend with)? Maybe an optimistic claim for the mini?
The closed length of front adjustable dampers from bush pin centres is as follows
Gaz standard height 230mm and lowered 215mm
Spax standard height 235mm and lowered 220mm
Koni standard height 225mm and lowered 215mm
AGX evolution in standard height only 210mm

#5 Ethel

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 02:27 PM

While you've got the cones out to fit the Hi-Lo's lift the suspension up to the maximum and measure between the shocker mountings then add a bit.

I must be stupid because I don't get the need for lowered shocks, at least on the front. The distance between the the shocker pins when the top arm hits the bump stop isn't altered by lowering the car.

#6 Sprocket

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 06:07 PM

The 'lowered' Spax dampers are not that short and I doubt you will have a problem.

I have a problem with the spax lowered dampers in that the rear suspension falls appart when you jack it up, and the car has not been drasticaly lowered

#7 maccers

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 06:41 PM

I am more or less doing the same with AGX shocks following some good words on this forum about them. I was going to fit new top brackets that are designed for when fitting lowered shocks to a lowered car - below is the link:

http://www.minispare...ty=pb&pid=34805

Are these worth fitting while its all stripped down?

#8 Darkscamp

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 07:24 PM

The 'lowered' Spax dampers are not that short and I doubt you will have a problem.

I have a problem with the spax lowered dampers in that the rear suspension falls appart when you jack it up, and the car has not been drasticaly lowered



surely it would fall apart more easily with standard dampers then, as the standard ones will allow more travel of the radius arm.

although if you using the fact it still falls aparts to point out that they are not that short, then i agree entirely. my lowered protech shocks are far shorter than the spax ones




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