
Agx Shocks
#1
Posted 11 January 2010 - 08:18 PM
#2
Posted 11 January 2010 - 08:31 PM
#3
Posted 12 January 2010 - 08:44 AM
Yes, car is lower slightly, I have got a pair of lowered bracke ts too to give the best ride I can while still sitting low. I have the Mini Tastic spring kit and hi - los, and will also be fitting adjustable neg camber arms.
One thing that does bother me a bit, with all this adjustable stuff, I have no idea how to set it all up! I need to find a place that can help me fine tune it once its all fitted.
Thanks,
Richard.
#4
Posted 12 January 2010 - 12:45 PM
The AGX's are short, just make sure it's actually the droop stop and not the damper that limits droop travel on the front if you've fitting "lowered" top damper brackets also...
They're only rebound adjustable so in terms of ride you don't have much choice. Start soft and stiffen them as they get older and the fluid degrades or if you envisage them getting very hot on a trackday for example. As a rule, in terms of primary ride (handling) - If the car understeers too much on turn in, soften front/stiffen rear, if it oversteers too much on turn in, soften rear/stiffen front. Repeat until satisfied.

I think I set my front camber for only about -0.5 degree or so static as I wanted good traction and wear as opposed to absolute peak cornering ability. This was using a slightly dodgy method though so about +/- 0.5 degrees tolerance!!

This has reminded me of a problem I've had with my AGX's, an adjusters fallen off...tape them on after you've adjusted! I need to chase minispares...thanks!!
Al
#5
Posted 12 January 2010 - 03:10 PM
I fitted the standard height Gaz shocks, but then realised (after reading some things on here) they may be bottoming out as the ride was well harsh with the mini tastic springs in that I bought to smooth things out!
I hope I have the right combination with 10" wheels, adjustable neg arms, and these dampers / springs. Wish I'd left the whole lot alone now

#6
Posted 12 January 2010 - 03:22 PM
#7
Posted 12 January 2010 - 03:26 PM
So I could have really got awat with dropped brackets I guess. I dont know by how much the pin is dropped on them. I guess using both will have the same effect of what I am having now, ie bottoming out?
#8
Posted 12 January 2010 - 03:29 PM
#9
Posted 12 January 2010 - 03:30 PM
#10
Posted 12 January 2010 - 03:36 PM
Suspension travel on the front should be limited by the rubber bump and droop stops only...if something else is getting in the way (e.g. damper, ball joint, grouse) then something's wrong.
On the rear the damper controls max droop and I believe the bump stop is in the rubber cones - or in your case the springs?
As you're running coil springs you *may* want a bit more baseline damping as you've lost the hysteresis of the rubber...just something to bear in mind but to be honest I probably wouldn't notice the difference...
#11
Posted 12 January 2010 - 05:58 PM
Yes you should always excersice new shocks, and leave them standing upright for a while before fitting them.
by the way, they don't tell you this but the rear AGX dampers are handed due to the angle of the adjuster and the sheer size of the tube. If you get them on the wrong sides, the adjuster knob will foul the suspension.
#12
Posted 12 January 2010 - 06:22 PM
If you get them on the wrong sides, the adjuster knob will foul the suspension.
Thanks Dan I will check this out. I did notice they were handed, I just positioned them for the best access. I did check that the adjuster turned freely @ ride height but not throughout the travel.
#13
Posted 12 January 2010 - 06:39 PM
If there is bottoming out going on, the rear end has no bump stops as standard unless this is a Sportspack car. There are bumpstops available to fit inside the rear cone springs and I have found them to be very effective (I've only used the rubber type made from half an exhaust bobbin though, not the plastic type). They would fit to coil springs if you bought a second pair of front spring platforms (with the threaded centre) but you might be better off using some of the Works type progressive bump stops, if you can make them fit dry arms without limiting travel too much which isn't something I've tried.
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