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Agx Shocks


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#1 maccers

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 08:18 PM

Am replacing my standard GAZ shocks with AGX type for lowering the car. I got them today, do they need pumped up before they are used?

#2 bmcecosse

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 08:31 PM

Pumped up? In what way ? And - is the car lowered?

#3 maccers

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 08:44 AM

I mean do they need primed, as in taking the new shock and using your arms extend them and then fully compress them again a few times. I recall doing this with shocks for my old metro once.

Yes, car is lower slightly, I have got a pair of lowered bracke ts too to give the best ride I can while still sitting low. I have the Mini Tastic spring kit and hi - los, and will also be fitting adjustable neg camber arms.

One thing that does bother me a bit, with all this adjustable stuff, I have no idea how to set it all up! I need to find a place that can help me fine tune it once its all fitted.

Thanks,
Richard.

#4 Scruffs

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 12:45 PM

I have the red AGX's also. When I fitted mine I did my best to get any possible gas out of the inner tube just to be sure but they were fine anyway...are there dodgy feeling bits through the travel at the moment?

The AGX's are short, just make sure it's actually the droop stop and not the damper that limits droop travel on the front if you've fitting "lowered" top damper brackets also...

They're only rebound adjustable so in terms of ride you don't have much choice. Start soft and stiffen them as they get older and the fluid degrades or if you envisage them getting very hot on a trackday for example. As a rule, in terms of primary ride (handling) - If the car understeers too much on turn in, soften front/stiffen rear, if it oversteers too much on turn in, soften rear/stiffen front. Repeat until satisfied. :D

I think I set my front camber for only about -0.5 degree or so static as I wanted good traction and wear as opposed to absolute peak cornering ability. This was using a slightly dodgy method though so about +/- 0.5 degrees tolerance!! :geek:

This has reminded me of a problem I've had with my AGX's, an adjusters fallen off...tape them on after you've adjusted! I need to chase minispares...thanks!!

Al

#5 maccers

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 03:10 PM

Thanks for that. I dont use the car much at all, its a weekend car really. It sits in my garage most of the time during the winter and allows me to do stuff like this with it when I get bored of work....

I fitted the standard height Gaz shocks, but then realised (after reading some things on here) they may be bottoming out as the ride was well harsh with the mini tastic springs in that I bought to smooth things out!

I hope I have the right combination with 10" wheels, adjustable neg arms, and these dampers / springs. Wish I'd left the whole lot alone now :geek:

#6 bmcecosse

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 03:22 PM

You can't fit both short dampers AND dropped brackets! Make your mind up! the dampers will soon clear themselves - but pump them if you need the exercise! Just be sure to keep them vertical.

#7 maccers

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 03:26 PM

LOL! Whoops! So I dont need the dropped brackets then? I ordered them over the phone from a well known spares centre, would have thought they might have said something, but I suppose they were not to assocaite the 4 dampers and brackets with the same car????

So I could have really got awat with dropped brackets I guess. I dont know by how much the pin is dropped on them. I guess using both will have the same effect of what I am having now, ie bottoming out?

#8 bmcecosse

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 03:29 PM

Short dampers are the better option - send back the brackets.

#9 maccers

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 03:30 PM

Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

#10 Scruffs

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 03:36 PM

Just so you know as I spent a while looking this up

Suspension travel on the front should be limited by the rubber bump and droop stops only...if something else is getting in the way (e.g. damper, ball joint, grouse) then something's wrong.

On the rear the damper controls max droop and I believe the bump stop is in the rubber cones - or in your case the springs?

As you're running coil springs you *may* want a bit more baseline damping as you've lost the hysteresis of the rubber...just something to bear in mind but to be honest I probably wouldn't notice the difference...

#11 Dan

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 05:58 PM

There are no lowered AGX dampers, they just have more range than other types used on a Mini in that they can close up further from the same open length. That doesn't necessarily mean they will close as far as a lowered type. If your car is exceptionally low you MIGHT still need lowered shock brackets with them. As said above, as long as the car can still hit both the upper and lower stops at the front without the damper bottoming it's right. If the bottoming you are currently feeling is actually due to the car hitting the stops then fitting new dampers might not help, but making them stiffer will.

Yes you should always excersice new shocks, and leave them standing upright for a while before fitting them.

by the way, they don't tell you this but the rear AGX dampers are handed due to the angle of the adjuster and the sheer size of the tube. If you get them on the wrong sides, the adjuster knob will foul the suspension.

#12 Scruffs

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 06:22 PM

If you get them on the wrong sides, the adjuster knob will foul the suspension.


Thanks Dan I will check this out. I did notice they were handed, I just positioned them for the best access. I did check that the adjuster turned freely @ ride height but not throughout the travel.

#13 Dan

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Posted 12 January 2010 - 06:39 PM

When I have fitted them, I have found that fitting with the best access means they foul the arm on full rebound. You have to fit them backwards effectively, so that the adjuster is facing the front of the car. It makes them harder to adjust but means they clear the arm.

If there is bottoming out going on, the rear end has no bump stops as standard unless this is a Sportspack car. There are bumpstops available to fit inside the rear cone springs and I have found them to be very effective (I've only used the rubber type made from half an exhaust bobbin though, not the plastic type). They would fit to coil springs if you bought a second pair of front spring platforms (with the threaded centre) but you might be better off using some of the Works type progressive bump stops, if you can make them fit dry arms without limiting travel too much which isn't something I've tried.




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