15 replies to this topic

[Burnard]

I think i need to replace my disc's as my brakes dont seem very effective, even after ive checked out the cylenders and fitted new pads (been on there for over 150miles now)

Which discs are best to use, I have a cooper S 7.5inch set up fitted?

Ive been looking that both of these, but cant work out which one is, or would be best, or even if they would be noticable better than standerd:

http://www.minispare...ty=pb&pid=33424
http://www.minisport...o_21A1265D.html


I may have some other questions, but not sure what to ask yet


Thanks


Chris

[Cooperman]

The grooved discs are said to be better in terms of wear rate and for better water clearance in the wet as the pads stay drier.
However, so long as the discs are good quality the standard discs are fine at 7.5". My '64 historic rally Cooper 'S' is not allowed grooved discs under the regulations and, with carbon-metallic pads as supplied by Mini Sparew it has superb brakes, even when the discs are glowing dull red!
If your brakes feel poor, try carbon-metallic pads and new standard discs. The pads are the critical thing, so long as the discs are in good condition.

Edited by Cooperman, 27 January 2010 - 04:33 PM.

[Burnard]

I am useing EBC greenstuff pads which i was told are excelent pads.
Im not too bothered about pad wear so long as they last a reasonable amount of time.

Are you useing the mintex M1144 pads?

Edited by Burnard, 27 January 2010 - 04:43 PM.

[Bungle]

i run green stuff pads and 4 grove disks on my 8.4 inch set up

[Cooperman]

I am useing EBC greenstuff pads which i was told are excelent pads.
Im not too bothered about pad wear so long as they last a reasonable amount of time.

Are you useing the mintex M1144 pads?

No, I have the Carbon-Metallic' ones that Mini Spares do. I tried the 1144, but got a lot of fade on rallies. The C-M ones are good at low temperatures, but just don't fade at all really, and that's even when the discs are red-hot.
On my Rover 214 rally car I use Mintex 1177 which are great, but they are expensive (cheaper than body repairs though!). I always thought that the old Ferodo DS11 comp pads were great, but these C-M ones are just the best.
EBC Green fade too easily for my use, although I've just put a set I had on my shelf into my Innocenti 1300 so we shall see what they are like in a road car. A friend of mine used EBC Red on one tarmac rally and I had to let him have a spare set of my C-M ones as the 'reds' wore out so quickly that he got through 3 sets in 3/4 of the event.

[Burnard]

I think i will get some of the grooved disks from minispares, they always seem to sell stuff that works, and does exactly what it says, unless anyone can tell me the drilled ones are definatly better.

Planning on refurbing the calipers now, allong with braided hoses all round, new rear shoes and cylenders.
If its not good enough i will get some of the C-M pads, ( http://www.minispare...ty=pb&pid=32846 guessing these are the right ones then? ) but will plan on getting a set when the green stuffs are dead anyway.


Ive been reading an article in an old mini mag which says that if you are running the 7.5s up front you need a different pressure valve or something. can anyone explain this to me or show me what parts i need?

It would apear that my front brake lines run through a pressure valve allong with the rear pipes, is this limiting the pressure on the front?


Chris

[Darkscamp]

the drilled ones have been known to crack between the holes on occassion, and are known to warp quicker so i'd go for grooved ones.


there are grooved and dimpled ones, which is the way EBC are now doing there TurboGroove discs. apparently the dimples give the same effects as drilled but keep the strength of the disc the same as a grooved only one. jonspeed used to sell the dimpled ones but i havent been there in a while so i cant comfirm if they still do.

 ebc_turbo.jpg   44.69K   4 downloads
picture is not of a disc for a classic mini before anybody tries to point it out, its for illustration purposes only

Edited by Darkscamp, 27 January 2010 - 06:32 PM.

[Burnard]

I think ive seen disks like those before.

Im going to go with grooved ones as i dont want to run the risk of the discs failing on me since the car is essentially a daily driver.

[samsfern]

i fitted grooved and x drilled discs, along with greenstuff pads, minisports surestop brake kit, i didnt seem to have any probs, other than finding the pads wore quite quickly, i cant say wether they were better than standard discs, as my pads were worn down to the metal, and the discs were heavily scores, so not a very useful comparison, lol

[1293sleeper]

if you run grooved or drilled disc make sure they are good quality as the cheap grooved/drilled discs are just stock ones that have been modd'ed and are prone to cracking if you can't afford this buy good standard discs.

[panelbeaterpeter]

I looked into this a while ago, apparently the grooved discs get clogged easily, so I went for good quality drilled discs, with EBC blackstuff pads, I believe the greenstuff pads have to get quite hot before they work as well as they should, best suited to hard road driving or racing, blackstuff are better suited to road use. That combination with an 8.4 set up is excellent.

[Burnard]

Which drilled disks are you useing then, do you have a link?

From what cooper man has said about the carbon metallic pads they sound like they are best suited to the way i drive, and i would like them to work at low and high temperatures without fade.


Can anyone tell me what the regulator actually does and if it is limiting the brakeing on the front?
Im pretty sure this is the one i have at the moment: http://www.minispare...ty=pb&pid=37054


Thanks


chris

[Burnard]

bump?

[gregh55]

just recondition the calipers?

[Cooperman]

Re-conditioning the caliper on the 7.5" brakes is easy once you have split the calipers into 2 pieces, UNTIL you come to fit the dust seals. One a dust seal gets even slightly bent whilst being installed, it is b******d and another one is needed. However, you only get 4 seals in the kit.
By the way, use the stainless steel pistons and make sure everything is kept absolutely clean by thoroughly washing the parts with brake & clutch cleaner. Fit new rubber seal rings when putting the 2 pieces back together. From memory the torque for the bolts securing the 2 halves is 45 lb.ft, but you should check this. It's what I always use and it seems to be OK so long as you use 'Loctite' thread locking compound.
You'll love the C-M pads. They are just so much better than EBC Green, Mintex 1144, etc., and work over a wide temp range. They seem to last well too.