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Removing The Engine..


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#1 j0-rdan

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 09:00 PM

Hi everyone,
When I was starting to rebuild my car I swapped the 998 with a 1275, but this was done under close supervision at a local garage.. Just wondering how difficult this will be for me to do myself and what tools I'll need (I remember using some bracket to twist the engine as it came out?).
Hoping to get a few things like new cam, flywheel, valve head and rebore done during summer, so just need the easiest way and any extra information I might need.
Thanks
Jordan

#2 Pauly

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 09:10 PM

Just follow the haynes, wont go wrong. Anything attached to the engine from the car or anything that will get in the way when pulling it out, take it off.

Need a good socket set and a ball joint splitter, and also a tyre lever or the special tool for the pot joints.

Oh and a engine hoist.

#3 bmcecosse

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 09:30 PM

Or - just lift the engine out - and leave the gearbox behind! Saves messing about with ball joints/drive shafts etc. remove the head first - the remaining engine is an (admittedly heavy) one man lift!

#4 j0-rdan

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 10:25 PM

Or - just lift the engine out - and leave the gearbox behind! Saves messing about with ball joints/drive shafts etc. remove the head first - the remaining engine is an (admittedly heavy) one man lift!


Is it easy to remove the gearbox while the engine is still in the car? Thanks

#5 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 11:55 PM

No it's not...

And as for dismantling the engine from the box and leaving the gearbox behind.... what are you on !!!

I have honestly never heard anything more ridiculous in my life... it's hard enough removing the transfer case with the engine still in the car, and once you've got to that point you may as well remove the rest of the unit as there's only the driveshafts, n/s engine mount and gear linkage to remove..

with enough practice you don't actually need to remove the road wheels to remove the engine, let alone the ball joints.

#6 Saxo-Fiesta-Mini

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 12:04 AM

easiest option is remove the subframe complete and then you have more room to work on it
but if uve never done this before id advise just take you time
remove all the anciallries out of the way and everything else that holds it in place and manifolds, dizzy, rad, shafts
then lower the car into axle stands and with an assitant lift it out :P

worked when me and my mate ryan converted his metro fro 1.1 8v - 1.6 16v lol

Edited by Saxo-Fiesta-Mini, 12 February 2010 - 12:05 AM.


#7 rick.spi

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 12:04 AM

BMC thats just crazy!?!?! i would honestly say id sooner pop 2 balljoints, pop 2 drive shafts and take a few pipes and exhaust etc off anyday over dismantling the engine and box and evrything. thats just making life hard for yourself.

i was a first time engine lifter outer the other week, i spent a few hours taking the anciliries and pipes and exhaust etc off, next week mate came round to help along with a hired engine lift and would have been out in well less that 2 hours if the ball joints wernt so stubborn.

its really not hard taking it out and its a great sense of achievment when its is out :P.

#8 floydrob

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 12:43 AM

as you lift the engine out, lift it till the drive shafts are as high as they can go, then push the engine to one side, then the oppiside shaft will fall out, and repeat for the other side. saves splitting ball joints or whatever. i've done that on 3 mini's so far and once taking th engine out the subby on a bench. takes ten minutes max.

#9 morley

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 01:10 AM

i have like a 10 page guide from someone from another forum, which i can email to you if you like?

but it really is just a case of removing the carb, exhaust manifold, gear linkage, radiator, any ancilaries and just any pipes/hoses/ wiring still connected to the car.. oh and the servo if you have one.

and don't forget the speedo cable!! most people disconnect it while the engine is halfway out but you can disconnect it while the engine is in but it's tricky

then i just split the ball joints and just pulled out the driveshafts.

does sound a lot complicated than it is but once you've done it a few times and you know what your doing then it's easy :P

#10 j0-rdan

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 03:05 PM

Thanks for all the replies everyone, seems there are a few special tools I’ll need to find first..
Also I’ve recently seen some people mentioning 'straight cut drop gears', just wondering what the benefits are of having this done, thought while I had guess-works attention I might just throw this in :P
Thanks

#11 monkey

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 03:25 PM

GRanted i have only removed one engine (and NOT put it back in yet :P) but I went for the whole subframe out option (ok, so I am attempting a resto and wanted the subframe out anyway) but I was really surprised by how quickly I got the whole lot out!

hth

Steve

#12 willydc26

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 04:42 PM

GRanted i have only removed one engine (and NOT put it back in yet =]) but I went for the whole subframe out option (ok, so I am attempting a resto and wanted the subframe out anyway) but I was really surprised by how quickly I got the whole lot out!

hth

Steve



how long did this take you, and what all did it involve. in the upcoming week, i am planning on taking out the 998 auto engine subframe combo, and putting in a 1275 manual engine subframe combo. and tips to make it easier?

#13 bmcecosse

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 05:32 PM

The 'engine only'option is very easy - granted my car had no daft servo fitted! Engine swap in an evening, single handed, no hoist. Simples. I ALWAYS do it that way - unless access is needed to the gearbox of course. And yes - it's easy to pop the transfer case off - no hassle at all!

#14 Pauly

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 05:47 PM

99.9% of mini owners pull the engine out with gearbox. The other .1% is you. That is the most time consuming way of pulling an engine, plus you need to replace more gaskets, plus you have the engine open to the elements for no real reason if your just swapping engines.

There are 2 ways of doing it.

Pull engine out from the top.

Or from the bottom with complete subframe aswell.

Edited by Pauly, 13 February 2010 - 05:48 PM.





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