Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Advice On Engine/subframe Swap And Flip Front


  • Please log in to reply
3 replies to this topic

#1 willydc26

willydc26

    On The Road

  • Noobies
  • PipPip
  • 43 posts

Posted 14 February 2010 - 12:59 PM

ive got a 1979 mini 1000 with a 998 auto engine and damage to the front end. in my shed i have a complete running 1275 manual engine, manual subframe, and all the other bits like pedals and mounting brackets. im also planning on cutting the front end and replacing with a 1 piece fiber glass flip front.

my question is, what would be the easiest way of going about this? my first thought was to start by cutting away the front end, as if i was just doing a flip front conversion. then, disconnect the auto engine and subframe as a whole piece and wheel it away, then wheel the whole assembly of 1275 engine and subframe into place. then get on with the fitting of the flip front. does this sound reasonable? any suggestions for an easier way?

#2 Cooperman

Cooperman

    Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,309 posts
  • Location: Cambs.
  • Local Club: MCR, HAMOC, Chelmsford M.C.

Posted 14 February 2010 - 01:29 PM

So long as the two sub-frames are of the same type mounting-wise, then do the sub-frame swap. It would be wise to use solid sub-frame mountings.
Personally I don't like flip fronts as I firmly believe that the majority give no structural integrity in the event of a 3/4 frontal impact. I used to work as a design engine in the aerospace industry and that colours my view of what constitutes good design practice in strutural engineering. I don't think the necessary stress calculations are carried out by those offering the flip fronts. They seem to think that welding/bolting a few bits of steel tube or steel angle in will carry the crash loads and that no calulations or rash tests are necessary.
But, hey, it's up to you in the end.

#3 willydc26

willydc26

    On The Road

  • Noobies
  • PipPip
  • 43 posts

Posted 14 February 2010 - 01:34 PM

So long as the two sub-frames are of the same type mounting-wise, then do the sub-frame swap. It would be wise to use solid sub-frame mountings.
Personally I don't like flip fronts as I firmly believe that the majority give no structural integrity in the event of a 3/4 frontal impact. I used to work as a design engine in the aerospace industry and that colours my view of what constitutes good design practice in strutural engineering. I don't think the necessary stress calculations are carried out by those offering the flip fronts. They seem to think that welding/bolting a few bits of steel tube or steel angle in will carry the crash loads and that no calulations or rash tests are necessary.
But, hey, it's up to you in the end.



i plan on using solid subframe mounts. and when you say to do the sub-frame swap, do you mean subframe, then engine? or subframe engine combo?

#4 Cooperman

Cooperman

    Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,309 posts
  • Location: Cambs.
  • Local Club: MCR, HAMOC, Chelmsford M.C.

Posted 14 February 2010 - 04:00 PM

What I would do is to fully prepare the sub-frame first. Build it up with the brakes and suspension on, using new suspension bushes and solid mountings all round. Then install the sub-frame into the car and connect the battery lead, re-run the fuel pipe as neessary and get the engine bay all ready for the engine to be lowered in.There ae some who say to lift the body over the top of the engine and gearbox already assembled onto the sub-frame. The last time I did that was about 35 years ago and I said then "never again", and I haven't!
It's good to have connected all the sub-frame parts onto the frame then ensured that, whilst it's still easy to lift, it all fits in nicely. Then it's so easy to lower the 'lump' in afterwards and just connect everything up.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users