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Clutch Throw Out Stop


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#1 ketchup

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 02:38 PM

I'm after some advice regarding the throw out stop adjustment.
The gap between the clutch casing and the throw out stop is 7.5 mm. This should be 6.5 according to the Haynes manual. But there is no adjustment left on the clutch plunder.
The clutch bites very low on the pedal and Im finding difficult engaging gears. Normally first when car is stationary.
Here is a photo of the stop.

Attached File  Photo0021.jpg   1.28MB   73 downloads

I'm wondering if the arm and plunger could be worn.
All the hydraulics and clevis pin are new

Help would be appreciated.
Mark

#2 minipete

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 03:00 PM

Your Clutch plate is probably worn.

#3 Minitrio

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 03:49 PM

I'm after some advice regarding the throw out stop adjustment.
The gap between the clutch casing and the throw out stop is 7.5 mm. This should be 6.5 according to the Haynes manual. But there is no adjustment left on the clutch plunder.
The clutch bites very low on the pedal and Im finding difficult engaging gears. Normally first when car is stationary.
Here is a photo of the stop.

Attached File  Photo0021.jpg   1.28MB   73 downloads

I'm wondering if the arm and plunger could be worn.
All the hydraulics and clevis pin are new

Help would be appreciated.
Mark


Also having clutch problems, seems to be the hydralics rather than adjustment, but will check it post system bleed.

What size is the Throw out stop nut?

Hope you get it sorted

#4 ketchup

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 04:00 PM

Thanks for the replies
I think the stop nut is 1" but could be corrected
Looks like im going to be busy next weekend weather permiting

#5 Minitrio

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 04:05 PM

Thanks Ketchup, looks like i will be too!

#6 Cooperman

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 04:16 PM

The throwout stop has no effect on the point at which the clutch 'bites' It is to stop damage to the crankshaft thrust bearings in the event of the overthrow becoming too great.
To set the stops, which are 15/16" AF, you undo both nuts so that they are well clear of the casing. With a pre-Verto set-up, you then set the arm stop bolt, which is higher up on the casing and is 7/16" AF, clearance to 0.020" with the arm pulled as far away from the housing as it will go (with the clutch spring removed is easiest). Then when that is set, you push the clutch pedal right to the floor and hold it there. Whilst the pedal is to the floor you do up the inner overthrow stop nut until it just touches the casing. Release the pedal and turn the nut in a further 1/2 a flat (not half a turn!). Hold the inner nut in place and lock it there with the outer nut.
With a Verto the bit about the arm stop is irrelevant as a Verto is self-adjusting.
If the cluth wears it will disengage sooner, not with the pedal nearer the floor.
The overthrow stop should not need re-setting during the life of a clutch plate, unless the flywheel/clutch is touched or the release bearing changed. Always hold the inner nut with a 2nd spanner when tightening or loosening off those nuts or you risk snapping off the ball on the bottom of the arm.
One of the main problems with clutches is worn clevis pins and/or worn ball at the bottom of the clutch arm. On early ars the arms used to bend as well, but on later and on Verto-erquipped cars that's not an issue.
I hope this helps.




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