14 replies to this topic

[Jim_Jam]

Mayfair
1989
Standard apart from 6x12 revo wheels, modified wings, new arches just aestetics really.

Soon after I started driving my mini the offside brake began to judder under braking. I replaced the disks and pads and made sure the pistons on both calipers where all properley pushed back. I thought this may have been down to a binding caliper as the previous owner told me the disks already on wern't in themselves very old. I noticed when fitting the new ones that even when brand new the offside disk moved backwards and forwards a little inside the caliper when rotating the wheel. My friend said he though it would just bed in, so I just stuck the wheel back on and got on with my life. They worked great for a while no more juddering or pulling to the side but low and behold, its happened again, this time, worse than ever. I took the wheels off to inspect, the pads on the offside are bare, they have been worn down to the replacement line whereas on the other side, theres plenty of meat left on them, not much has been taken off since new. I went about ordering new disks and pads, and in the meantime tried fitting some new bog standard road pads, it has become pretty much undriveable, it judders badly, pulls to the right under braking.

With the wheel on and jacked up the offside wheel itself doesn't seem to have play, with the wheel off the disk moves significantly forwards and backwards within the caliper but the part the wheel bolts onto has no such issues and rotates as it should.

When I let off the accelerator there is a sort of temporary knocking sound, its also apparent under light braking but not heavy. I'm sure the sound is to do with this area and not the exhaust pipe/engine etc. all those mounts have been checked.

I'm thinking the wheel bearing is the underlying problem here causing the movement and consiquently offside disks to deform. (and knocking sound)

Does this sound about right?

Thank you very much for reading this, Mini Meg is my daily drive and I've got big issues withouht her.

Cheers in advance -Jamie

[L400RAS]

Could well be the wheel bearing - get it jacked up and wobble the wheel while someone else looks behind it for movement in either the wheel bearing, or swivel joints.

Wheel bearing is cheap to fix - around £25 for a nice timkin bearing, but you might as well look at your ball joints with the hub off - these are around £6 to do.

If you were closer to me i'd offer to come round and have a look, but i'm in Boston so around 3hrs away.

Ryan

[Pauly]

Place hands at 12 and 6 and wiggle the wheel, and feel for any movement. I suspect bearing aswell. Could also be a bent cv joint?

[Jim_Jam]

Thanks very much buddy,

I'll do this asap, I was just having a look back over my most recent MOT and it came with an advisory saying slight play in offside ball joint. Sounds like the perpetrator?

I'm not sure what a ball joint is, or where it is located. I gave 'Ball Joint' a search on minispares but I'm not convinced that any of the results are what I'm after. Any guidance would again, be much appreciated, I'll have a flick through my haynes. In terms of mechanics I'm learning as I go along as this is my first car and as a result, I'm so far only competant with things that have previously gone wrong and needed attention.


-Jamie

[Jim_Jam]

Wait, forget that, I misread, the advisory states nearside lower suspension arm, slight play in ball joint.

My Bad

[bmcecosse]

If the pads have worn out - that caliper must have been sticking ON. Did you never smell it ? The disc may now be warped. Stick another disc on it - even an old one - and overhaul (or replace) the caliper. If the problem was wheel bearing - that would allow the disc to wobble - and it would push the pads back causing a very LONG pedal each time you tried to brake. Do you have a long pedal ?

Edited by bmcecosse, 19 February 2010 - 08:03 PM.

[Jim_Jam]

The pedal went up and down when pushing on it because of the feedback given off the warped disk. I thought the exessive movement and me pushing down hard enough to engance the flat disk, meaning everytime the 'highest section' of the warped disk came around it would be pushing extra hard against the pad would be enough to burn through the pads..? One of the pistons was very stiff to push back in I have to say when swapping pads on that caliper. I've been offered a caliper in good working order for £10 so I'm not overley fussed about replacing that.

I guess there is evidence that the bearings/ball joint and caliper both have parts to play in the recent annahilation of my offside disk.

Thanks for everyones input, priceless in my eyes

-J

[bmcecosse]

No - bearings and balls would have no input (but if not right - should be fixed right away!) - it is the warped disc. When you fit a new one - be sure to clean the drive flange very very carefully to make sure the new disc seats correctly. And if the caliper is hard to push back - it WILL be sticking - so grab the £10 one ! This sort of carry on is what drove me to Fiesta calipers - no more sticking/wearing/pulling/ squeaking - not like Mini brakes at all - and much better stopping too!

Edited by bmcecosse, 19 February 2010 - 08:17 PM.

[Jim_Jam]

Looks like its two busses and a derpressingly lengthy walk tomorrow then, but as of next week new caliper and brake setup it is.
I suppose if its as described £10 is peanuts for a caliper.
The joys of a 21yo car

[Big_Adam]

If you think its the disk and you want to check quick, switch the front ones around. That way you rule out the problem without spending cash. If the problem then shows on the other side, drive off to the local part shoppe, buy a new one or pair and fit.

Job done.

Also my car is pushing 46. Stop moaning.

[cambiker71]

It sounds like the bearing is the cause here, if the bearing has enough play it will allow movement at the drive flange with attached disc, causing the disc to rub against the pads wearing them quickly whilst overheating the disc eventually causing it to warp. Possibly damaged the caliper now too if it's sticking.

[Jim_Jam]

I'm buying all the kit I need to carry out the repairs, the minispares timken bearings arn't advertised as coming with grease...

What sort of grease do I need? The only stuff I can find on MiniSpares is copper grease (LM2 and high temprature copper grease)



Cheers - Jamie

[IainR]

Castrol LM grease is the right stuff.

When you say you,ve bought all the kit, does that include the top and bottom swivel pins (these are sometimes called the top and bottom ball joints) - it would be worth doing when you have the hub carrier off, also maybe replace the steering track rod end?.

I know it sounds like it goes on and on, but the individual parts are cheap and it doesn't take much extra time ( okay so swivel pins are a bit fiddly to shim etc).

Last weekend I went out just to free a sticking handbrake - now replacing the radius arm, wheel bearings.....

[Jim_Jam]

This. is the kit I'm gonna get... I think it's got everything I need...exept grease. Where can I get that castrol stuff from?


-J

[Sleepy Stu]

This... is the kit I'm gonna get... I think it's got everything I need...exept grease. Where can I get that castrol stuff from?


-J

That looks spot on!!

Any local motor factor will be able to sell you some LM grease!! Or if you are really stuck get yourself down to Hellfrauds (Halfords) and they will certainly have some there.

This is a link to the stuff you are looking for. Dont worry about it being such a big pot as it comes in useful for lots of other stuff and you will have it for the next time you need to do some bearings front or rear!!

http://www.halfords....tegoryId_165705

Edited by Sleepy Stu, 23 February 2010 - 03:26 PM.