
Rod Change And Later Subframe
Started by
Stevie W
, Feb 20 2010 07:40 PM
10 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 20 February 2010 - 07:40 PM
Hi All,
Hope everyone is ok.
I am currently building up my new 'shell project and have brought and installed a late front subframe with I believe has engine mount holes that are a further 1/2" forward (something to do with the SPi/MPi engine?)
The 'shell is a MkIV BMH shell.
My question is: do I need a different rod change linkage i.e. are there two different lengths to deal with the engine being another 1/2" further forward? I already have a rod change linkage but am not sure if its the right one!!
Many thanks,
Steve.
Hope everyone is ok.
I am currently building up my new 'shell project and have brought and installed a late front subframe with I believe has engine mount holes that are a further 1/2" forward (something to do with the SPi/MPi engine?)
The 'shell is a MkIV BMH shell.
My question is: do I need a different rod change linkage i.e. are there two different lengths to deal with the engine being another 1/2" further forward? I already have a rod change linkage but am not sure if its the right one!!
Many thanks,
Steve.
#2
Posted 20 February 2010 - 09:27 PM
This is not a 100% known answer to me so please refer before taking any actions based on what I reply
As far as I know the only movement forward by 1/2" was the difference between the 998 and 1275 engine mount holes on the subframe?
We now know you have the later 1275 subframe but what rod change do you have there? 998 or 1275?
I have a 1275 gear linkage here that I will be selling anyway if you do need one, but make sure someone confirms what I wrote or answers correctly first

As far as I know the only movement forward by 1/2" was the difference between the 998 and 1275 engine mount holes on the subframe?
We now know you have the later 1275 subframe but what rod change do you have there? 998 or 1275?
I have a 1275 gear linkage here that I will be selling anyway if you do need one, but make sure someone confirms what I wrote or answers correctly first
#3
Posted 20 February 2010 - 09:47 PM
1/2" won't make any difference! I doubt they made any changes!
#4
Posted 20 February 2010 - 09:54 PM
Ok Chaps,
Thanks for the replies. I think I'll just fit it up and see what happens!
Steve.
Thanks for the replies. I think I'll just fit it up and see what happens!
Steve.
#5
Posted 20 February 2010 - 10:48 PM
There are more than two lengths of rod. There are two that were used in the Mini but there are others from other models, although the difference in the Mini's case is not based on engine size but on manufacturing date. Yes you need a longer rod, or pair of rods. If you fit the shorter rods the selector mounts are pulled forward and stretched, they will fail quite quickly.
#6
Posted 21 February 2010 - 08:11 PM
Cheers for that Dan,
Don't know if this helps but the part number for the gear linkage assembly on my receipt is DAM5066.
Steve.
Don't know if this helps but the part number for the gear linkage assembly on my receipt is DAM5066.
Steve.
#7
Posted 21 February 2010 - 08:17 PM
lets just say the spi etc 1275s rod change is longer as is the engine steady bar.
dave
dave
#8
Posted 21 February 2010 - 08:25 PM
Fuel injection engines were further forward, so the rods were longer too
#9
Posted 21 February 2010 - 09:21 PM
The later subframes have a 1/2" long slot in the outer face of the subframe but the inner plate hole is drilled at the back of the slot.
The gear linkage and both engine steadies are a different length to allow for the change in the position of the engine. Unfortunately all of my old kit has been sold off and both of my mini's have the later engine positions so I cant measure the various lengths to give you the heads up.
Perhaps it is best to identify what linkage/steadies you have and if they are the earlier type perhaps consider modifying by welding and re-drilling the subframe to suit the rest, otherwise find someone breaking a late mini and buy all the gear in one go.
The gear linkage and both engine steadies are a different length to allow for the change in the position of the engine. Unfortunately all of my old kit has been sold off and both of my mini's have the later engine positions so I cant measure the various lengths to give you the heads up.
Perhaps it is best to identify what linkage/steadies you have and if they are the earlier type perhaps consider modifying by welding and re-drilling the subframe to suit the rest, otherwise find someone breaking a late mini and buy all the gear in one go.
#10
Posted 22 February 2010 - 10:46 AM
As said, for the later type subframe the selector rod, steady rod and upper steady bar are all 1/2" longer to accomodate the altered engine position.
The other issue that becomes apparent in using the late subframe is that the HT leads on the dizzy get very close to the upright in the centre of the front panel making it almost impossible to remove them without removing the cap which, if you have a 65DM4 dizzy, is made difficult as one of the screws is a pain to get to.
Not sure if it was introduced at the same time, but the later steady rods had one hole slotted which makes them much easier to attach with the LCB in place.
Edit - DAM5066 is, I believe, the later 'long' type as they were the left overs from production and nver officially sold as a spare part under that part number. However I would measure it to confirm.
The other issue that becomes apparent in using the late subframe is that the HT leads on the dizzy get very close to the upright in the centre of the front panel making it almost impossible to remove them without removing the cap which, if you have a 65DM4 dizzy, is made difficult as one of the screws is a pain to get to.
Not sure if it was introduced at the same time, but the later steady rods had one hole slotted which makes them much easier to attach with the LCB in place.
Edit - DAM5066 is, I believe, the later 'long' type as they were the left overs from production and nver officially sold as a spare part under that part number. However I would measure it to confirm.
Edited by GraemeC, 22 February 2010 - 10:51 AM.
#11
Posted 22 February 2010 - 08:39 PM
Thanks for all the info guys.
I will measure everything up before fitting!!
Steve.
I will measure everything up before fitting!!
Steve.
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