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Heated Inlet Manifold


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#1 monster_mini

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 08:00 PM

hiii

i was just wondering the best way to send the top heater hose through a minispares inlet manifold(the one that comes with a stage one kit)

thanks

this is my engine>>

#2 Darkscamp

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 08:05 PM

New pipes for you by the look of it i'm afraid. :D

Although my advice would be to leave it unheated as it can reduce performance.

#3 tadleysimon

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 08:53 PM

agreed, i wouldnt bother but if you must, you need to cut into the pipe that runs infront of your rocker cover. (thats the feet to the interior heater)

#4 Pooky

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 09:04 PM

Far from reducing performance heated inlet manifolds reducing fuel condensing inside the manifold, that's why they make them with the abilty to heat them!

I rigged mine up as really long bypass hose. Instead of a troublesome bypass between head and water pump. I fitted an SPI thermostat sandwich plate then ran a hose from here round the back of the engine bay then through the manifold. Then off the other side to a tee piece where the heater hose meets the bottom hose :D

#5 Bungle

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 09:09 PM

that pipe that runs infront of the rocker cover

cut that and stick each end into your inlet manifold

#6 Darkscamp

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 09:25 PM

Thats strange because mine reduced in power and efficiency when ran with the manifold heated. The only time i found it to help was on below freezing mornings.

I did toy with the idea of running it through the manifold, but have a bypass hose so i could stop it going through the manifold on normal days.

#7 Surfbluegarage

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 09:37 PM

the inlet gets hot enough with heat from the exhaust and block anyway without hooking the pipes up. I wldnt bother plumbing it in personally but thats just me. the cooler the charge, the denser the air, the less fuel evoporation/atomisation the better the performance, and being that your fitting a "performance" manifold im guessing thats what you require?

#8 Pooky

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 09:45 PM

Take a read of this!

#9 monster_mini

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 10:42 PM

wow:P

thats interesting to read:P

from what dan said in the thread i might hook it up:P

hummm, decisions decisions:P

#10 Darkscamp

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 10:59 PM

so your willing to cut a nicely shaped bit of piping, to gain nothing :D

#11 Surfbluegarage

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 11:24 PM

"As the air tempreture drops its density increases. the rate of change is about 1% in density from every 3.3 degree c or temp reduction.the air entering a production engine induction system can easily reach 80-85degrees c but by drawing cold air from an outside source the air temp at the mouth of the carb can be reduced by as much as 40-45 degrees. This represents an air increase of some 12%."
"the best results are obtained if all precaustions are taken to preserve the reduced intake tempreture all the way into the cylinders and the increased air deinsity is fully exploited by maintaining the correct fuel/air ratio."
"While you may succeed in supplying cool air to the carb mouth the air will pick up heat during this passage down the inlet track past port walls and hot intake valves. This being the case we need to take steps to keep the heat out of the intake system.
"If the cold air is successfully picked up by a scoop your next job is will be to prevent the charge being unduly heated between the carb and the intake valve. the first steps towards acheiving this is to isolate the carb from all heat sources. This means a heat shield between the carb body ad te exhaust if your using a regular five-port non-cross flow type head."
" BE AWARE THAT FIVE PORT ENGINES DO NOT LIKE THEIR FUEL TOO FINELY ATOMIZED." When atomized too finely the power drops dramtiaclly"
" A MOJOR PROBLEM HERE IS THAT MOST INTAKE MANIFOLDS ARE CONSTRUCTED FROM ALUMINUIMWHICH CONDUCTS HEAT RAPIDLY FROM THE ENGINE AND DUMPS IT RIGHT INTO THE INTAKE CHARGE.THIS IS NOT WHAT WE WANT. If you are using a aluminuim manifold do yourself a big favour and use a thermal barrier coating on the inside of the manifold and polish the outside."

Big Yellow Bible
David Vizard....

Edited by mini_mad_daps, 22 February 2010 - 11:27 PM.


#12 james962

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 11:51 PM

I connected mine up because the heater hose was abit too short :lol: Also because i didn't want a pipe running infront of my rocker, so win win IMO.

#13 Timty

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Posted 23 February 2010 - 12:24 AM

so is it worth changing the inlet manifold for an aluminium one at all? as this and the needle is the only thing i have to get to complete my stage one kit.




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