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1100 Mini Engine Build Queries...


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#1 imvarma

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Posted 24 February 2010 - 08:29 PM

Model:Clubman Estate
Year:'79

Hi all,
I have found someone who will build me a mini engine for the estate, in exchange for me building a website for them, providing I supply the parts I want fitted. now the website is not a quick build, so I'm not expecting a basic rebuild although I am after a fairly basic engine.
The budget is not great and I have two nackered 1098 engines from similarly aged Mini clubman estates. one engine had been in my car but the valve seat had crumbled meaning one of the pistons and the head is as good as scrap. the other was expected to be a good running engine when I bought it but got it home and found water in the cylendars and the crank would not turn without alot of force, not looked inside this one yet though.

Both engines are: 10H791AA

I am after one good, reliable, strong, and economical engine made out of these two but know little about the variations in mini engines and was hoping someone could help out with what parts to buy, from the basic oil pump etc (theres so many different types which one fits my engine?). to the Should I get new hypatec pistons or oversized rings for a rebore question.

Also if anyone has any advice on what I should be asking the garage to do with the engine other than just put it together (ie valve grinds, porting or what is neccessary for unleaded conversion) that would be cool, as my knowledge of these things on an A-series is pretty basic.

any help greatly appreciated!
AndyV ;)

#2 bmcecosse

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Posted 24 February 2010 - 09:59 PM

Don't worry about 'unleaded' - or indeed, don't even worry about the cylinder head at this stage. You need to strip both engines and see if the crankshaft from either is fit for use - if not - get the best one reground and new bearing shells supplied. Yes - fit a new oil pump. Again - inspect both blocks to decide if one of them is fit for service - if not - get one rebored to the next size up, and a new set of pistons supplied and installed - along with the crank. Decide if you want a better camshaft -nothing too heroic for a 1098, the MG Metro cam is good in that engine, the new oil pump will need to match. Consider fitting either duplex timing gears, or the later type single chain with tensioner. That builds up the 'half-engine'. Then - get the best cylinder head checked over and the valves all ground in - and assembled to the block. Job done!

#3 ECG317W

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Posted 24 February 2010 - 10:03 PM

If you find that both your crankshafts are good, I'd be interested in buying your spare one if you want to sell it? That'd give you some extra money towards the budget.

Cheers

Ben

#4 imvarma

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Posted 25 February 2010 - 02:20 PM

I can't see why there would be an issue with either crankshaft, the engine that came out of my car was running great until the valve seat failure, I'm definitely interested in selling any parts I don't need, I've got boxes full of bits that came with the car to help me re-coup some of the money I've spent.

So I've started a list of bits I need to buy and would still love some help completing it. The budget for the engine ideally is under £500 but there's still money in the bank if I'm convinced to go further...

Simplex Timing Gear £20

Simplex Tensioner Kit. £14 (assuming this is what you meant by tensioner)

+040 Pistons (if nessasary) £150

Bearing shells (if nessasary) Which ones?

Oil pump, which one/ where from…
- a. if i go with the standard cam or
- b. if I go with the SW5 cam that has also been recommended to me?

Core Plugs
How many of these do I need? 4?


Finally for the moment Clutch and lightened flywheel, I don't know which one I need as I don't know the type of starter motor I have (call me thick if you like as I'm sure this is beginner stuff) Mines the type without the solenoid fixed to the starter and instead has the long shaft with the spring bit on it...

Many thanks...

#5 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 25 February 2010 - 02:33 PM

Stick with the std clutch/flywheel in a 1098

#6 imvarma

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Posted 25 February 2010 - 06:33 PM

Ok, was planning on sticking with a standard clutch, but having experienced the imporved feel and throttle responce after switching to a lightened flywheel in my other car, for the cost of doing it on a mini I thought it would be well worth the investment...

#7 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 25 February 2010 - 06:38 PM

The long stroke 1098 is all about torque not power (or revs), IMO, you'll just not reap the benefits of reducing the flywheel weight because the engine just wont rev that much...

On a fairly free revving engine, then yes, totally agree that a lightweight flywheel is a bonus.

#8 imvarma

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Posted 25 February 2010 - 07:01 PM

Sounds logical, I'll rethink that one then...

Cheers.

#9 bmcecosse

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Posted 25 February 2010 - 08:01 PM

I agree - keep it simple. You have the 'inertia' starter. Don't buy pistons or rebore the block unless it needs it! And if only slightly worn - just stick to a +20 rebore. Bearing shells will depend on the size of the crank - so inspection them. Oil pump must match the cam - so decide on the cam first - then get a pump to suit. Why would you need core plugs ?
Be aware that you can get perfectly good pistons for the 1098 engine from Bull Motif ( www.bullmotif.com ) They have std/20/30/40 on their website for £85 the set.

Edited by bmcecosse, 25 February 2010 - 08:48 PM.


#10 imvarma

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Posted 25 February 2010 - 08:31 PM

Why would you need core plugs ?

I have no idea other than I like shiny new bits, i'm assuming you mean there is no need to replace these at any point...




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