Bring Back "you've Been Tango'd Ad"
#61
Posted 28 October 2010 - 09:01 AM
#62
Posted 02 November 2010 - 02:13 PM
So much for the 1st post in this topic...
A few shots of the good work the previous owner put in.
This is how the paint looks now.

Started like this, as just a crack, but soon bubbled and with minimum effort now looks like this...


Just doesn't seem to have etched into the bare metal.
Still have some paint from when it was sprayed, but don't know if it's usable.
Edited by Scholes2012, 25 January 2011 - 09:13 PM.
#63
Posted 24 January 2011 - 06:54 PM
Since I put the 1275 engine in, it has only had the top engine steady, because the lower bracket was still on the 1000 engine, and with it rocking back and forward that work a bolt loose off the exhaust manifold, making it blow out the top of the centre exhaust port, so I went up to the motor club and used the ramp, so much nicer to be able to get at the car from underneath without having to lie on a cold wet floor, so new exhaust gasket done.


You may have seen the post about the Mini stuttering whilst driving and then not starting, but fingers crossed that's sorted, the not starting was a bad earth in the boot, although I hadn't touched it.
And the stuttering seem's to have been down to the points not opening enough, so that seem's to have sorted it.
And today to stop a repeat of the exhaust blowing, I got around to fitting the thermostat steady that I bought at MITP

Not put the heater pipes through the holes yet, as another job I need to do is check the heater matrix as I noticed a few drips the other day.
(I ordered the wrong pipes for my year of car, but by the time I fitted them it was too late to take them back and I had the matching heater from another car)


The only problem I had was the that the holes didn't seem to quite match the studs, the stud's were new when I put the engine in and have not had an engine steady hanging off them before, so took the decision to drill out the hole closest to the rad to 9mm, the cover then just slipped on the with a gentle tap.
#64
Posted 25 January 2011 - 09:47 PM
see wheels here
and here
#65
Posted 30 January 2011 - 07:46 AM
#66
Posted 30 January 2011 - 02:46 PM
& those DSN bits are the nuts, think I'll treat my engine bay to some bits when I'm in the final stages.
#67
Posted 30 January 2011 - 09:40 PM
Nice build, it will be nice to see the Mini with the arches and 13s. Did you get the front paint work sorted?
That workspace looks fantastic, is it a community funded thing?
& those DSN bits are the nuts, think I'll treat my engine bay to some bits when I'm in the final stages.
Cheers, didn't sort the paint yet, had some issues when I lost my job and didn't know if I was keeping the car, but that's now sorted and I'm keeping it, so need to get the paint sorted, I think all the paint may need to come off at some point because it just chips so easy.
Yes. we lived by the Wittering RAF camp and they have a scheme for them to work on there own cars, was lucky and got in as a civilian.
#68
Posted 31 January 2011 - 11:20 AM
turned the key, got ignition lights but then nothing, not even a tick. Got a piece of wire and hot wired the starter and it started fine. Went to the garage and filled up, using the wire to get it started again
#69
Posted 09 February 2011 - 12:55 AM
#70
Posted 10 March 2011 - 03:48 PM


Full lock.

neatened up the lip.
Will dig out the old paint from the shed and do the arches and scuttle at the same time.
Got a sheet of mild steel to tub the rear arches, so i can crack on with that now, then dig out the carbon fibre.
#71
Posted 14 March 2011 - 05:53 PM

surprised by the amount of filler use to skim the arch, but will sand this back later.

bit of rust in the rear quarter where i wanted to weld the lip to, so cut it out and will make a repair.

gap under the arch, that will be the flat bit at the top of the arch.
Have ordered a fuel tank sender/float, because when it gets to half a tank the needle just drops down to empty, not a problem really
because i could just keep filling up every time it drops, but you don't seem to get far on half a tank, also got a alloy filter king pressure
regulator off fleabay £17 bargin, will put the new sender in when i take the tank out to do the passenger side.
#72
Posted 16 March 2011 - 04:33 PM

Arch repair... took the corner off the valance as well because when i do the closing plate repair their was only rust to weld too.

Welder is playing up, the wire feed is very inconsistent, the wire its self is a little rusty, will try a new roll.

Quite pleased with the repair so far, a lot better that what was already there.
Edited by Scholes2012, 16 March 2011 - 04:34 PM.
#73
Posted 20 March 2011 - 05:33 PM


Got the welder going a bit better using new wire, dressed the weld back, not the neatest but with a skim of filler should be ok?

Don't head but the rear valance trying to look under the wheel arch.

Made up the closing piece for the top of the arch, but the step/lip on it was a bit shallow, so as i started to plug weld, it move off line,
so pulled it off and will make another with a deeper step. (have a bead roller in the shed, all the gear
Edited by Scholes2012, 20 March 2011 - 05:39 PM.
#74
Posted 21 March 2011 - 07:48 PM

Found it easier to cut the panel in half to reduce it twisting.

Plug welded under the wing and stitch welded the edge.

Cut off the excess lip.

But I found that when I ground this back, the penetration into the body was poor, so had to re-weld the edge.

Inside.
Think i will take the rear light out so i can get in to seam weld the top of the arch.
Hope this dry weather keeps up.
#75
Posted 21 March 2011 - 08:23 PM
dean
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users











