Confused About Oil?
#16
Posted 10 March 2010 - 07:02 PM
#17
Posted 10 March 2010 - 07:04 PM
Seems to be the same everytime an oil question is asked , there just doesn't seem to be a standard answer
I think the main thing is regular changes is the key.
#18
Posted 10 March 2010 - 07:10 PM
so thats for running your engine on day to day use, what would you reccomend for bedding an engine in? penrite running in oil? or is there something better or cheaper?
Surely someone here must know which is the correct oil for running in a new engine. I remember it being said (possibly on another forum?), but I can't remember.
#19
Posted 10 March 2010 - 07:15 PM
QUOTE (locky7101 @ Mar 10 2010, 07:02 PM)
so thats for running your engine on day to day use, what would you reccomend for bedding an engine in? penrite running in oil? or is there something better or cheaper?
Surely someone here must know which is the correct oil for running in a new engine. I remember it being said (possibly on another forum?), but I can't remember.
everyone says plain mineral oil but never really say where from or what make or anything, i'm building a 1380 pretty soon so getting the right oil may be useful
#20
Posted 10 March 2010 - 07:18 PM
#21
Posted 10 March 2010 - 07:25 PM
Click Me 1
Or try asking Doddy (i.e. AC Dodd)?: -
Click Me 2
After a search on that forum, I found this: -
Hello
I'm finishing my 1275GT engine rebuild and a question arise me about the running in. I installed brand new AE 21251 +.020 pistons on a rebored engine block. On some web i readed that for the running in you must use a plain oil (oil without additives) because if you use a additivated oil the rings will not fit correctly in the bores.
What do you think about that?
Where could i get this running in oil?
Thank you in advance.
Just use a straight 20W/50 oil. I use Duckham's Q 20W/50 oil. Works very well for me.
AC
#22
Posted 10 March 2010 - 07:32 PM
#23
Posted 10 March 2010 - 07:32 PM
#24
Posted 10 March 2010 - 07:35 PM
#25
Posted 10 March 2010 - 08:02 PM
20/50s fine, just let it warm up for about a minute when you start it from cold, otherwise youll do harm to your engine in the long run.
#26
Posted 10 March 2010 - 08:31 PM
For competition use there is Valvoline Racing 20w50, Kendal 20w50 (the best there is, but you can't get it easily now and it costs a fortune - about £40 per gallon) or Penrite 20w50.
A thinner oil does the gearbox no favours at all.
#27
Posted 10 March 2010 - 08:33 PM
halfrods stuff is green too, looks rather mint (no pun inteded)
#28
Posted 10 March 2010 - 08:39 PM
I use 15W40 mineral oil for general running and cheap 20W50 for running in.
I was told to use this setup by our local mini garage, and the guy working there used to build engines for BMC. He says that 10W40 is just too thin to protect enough and 20W50 is too thick for everyday running as the engine will need to work harder.
#29
Posted 10 March 2010 - 08:41 PM
#30
Posted 10 March 2010 - 09:01 PM
Strange that the oil i tend to use hasnt been stated.
I use 15W40 mineral oil for general running and cheap 20W50 for running in.
I was told to use this setup by our local mini garage, and the guy working there used to build engines for BMC. He says that 10W40 is just too thin to protect enough and 20W50 is too thick for everyday running as the engine will need to work harder.
The engine won't have to work harder with 20W/50, because the blender effect of the gearbox gives it a hammering before the engine sees it.
Each to their own though.
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