11 replies to this topic

[jaaroquai]

Model:1.3 spi
Year:1994
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible):

changing to center binnacle. all wirings are ok except ignition switch light and oil pressure light. yes, i have read and search old topics and tried them out but still nothing. the bulbs are ok.

ignition light - 12v taken from white wire (live) connects to red from the bulb and then earth to the brown yellow.

oil pressure light - 12v taken from white (live) connects to red from the bulb and then earth to white brown

is this right?

found from the guide that he doesnt do this but still can get the lights up. what he did was earth (black) to earth from the instrument loom then matches up all the other wirings to the loom absed on their respective colour codes.

did that but still no lights up...

help needed.

another thing, how to convert the igistion switch to an older model one (mk1) with only 3 inputs. the standard has 4 inputs batt (brown), auxillary (light green white), ignition (white) and crank (brown red). no problem to connect the batt (no 1 from the ignition switch back) and crank (no 3 from the ignition switch back), but nothing happens when connecting the aux and ignition (to no 2 from the back of the ignition switch).

how to do up the wiring so that aux and ignition can be operated..

Edited by jaaroquai, 02 April 2010 - 10:20 AM.

[Dan]

Neither of those lamps should be directly earthed. If the white/brown and brown/yellow are untouched and haven't been earthed then it should all be fine, if they have been connected into the earth they won't work and you might have destroyed your alternator if you started the car with it wired like that. Are the lamps in insulated bulb holders or metal ones?

Why do you want to convert to a dash mounted ignition switch? There isn't a start position on that ignition switch so you will need a seperate starter. I would make the conversion by using an ignition controlled relay to bring the aux circuits live as the old ignition switch won't be up to taking that much current. In fact you should probably isolate most of the car from that switch with relays as it was designed for much more lightweight electrical system than the one used in an SPi. What are you planning to do about the steering lock?

[jaaroquai]

well i wanted to go classic with my interior. the bulb holders are the one with 2 wires out red and black. i think its metal.

so what should i do to rectify the problem. how do i test whether my alternator is ok. i think i've earthed those wired. well initially i tried the straight forward conversion, where the black wires were earthed to the center instruments. and the ignition light goes to the designated wire from the original loom. same goes to the oil pressure light but still nothing when i turn on the switch. other wirings are fine. just that two.

steering lock? i have taken out the old ignition switch together with the bracket that holds onto the steering column. so i'm planning not using it anymore.

yup, there are no start position. so how do i go about it?

thanks dan for the reply.

[lrostoke]

ignition light - 12v taken from white wire (live) connects to red from the bulb and then earth to the brown yellow.

oil pressure light - 12v taken from white (live) connects to red from the bulb and then earth to white brown


That should work how you've had it. The bulb holders sound ok with two wires in, just make sure they can't be earthed through the bulb holder body or else the lights will be on perminent with the ignition.

***whoops didn't read Dan's fully he's said same thing ha ha ****

Edited by lrostoke, 02 April 2010 - 04:43 PM.

[Dan]

As above, metal bulb holders might be earthing to the instrument. Although earthing bulb holders tend to only have one terminal. Plastic bulb holders are best for this application. Pull them out of the case and see if that makes them start to work.

If you haven't actually run the engine with the alternator warning lamp circuit earthed the alternator will be fine. If you have it might have been damaged. Without taking it apart you can't tell until you start the engine and get it running, and you shouldn't do that until you get the warning lamp working properly. Once it is working, if there is 14.4v ish at the battery with the headlamps on then it's fine. If it's overcharging it will destroy a sealed battery and if its undercharging then the battery won't charge.

I can't remember the details off the top of my head but there is a legal requirement involved with the steering lock. There is something else you can do to remove it legally but I can't remember what exactly.

[jaaroquai]

ok..now i understand. since it is a metal bulb holder, it doesnt work. ok will try it with the bulb holders off the instrument. once this sorted i'll try read the voltage across the alternator. hopefully the alternator is still ok.

thanks for the explanation guys.

but what if it doesnt work, what should i do?

as for the steering lock, its ok dan since i'm not in UK.

what about the ignition switch? is there a good way to go about it?

Edited by jaaroquai, 02 April 2010 - 11:58 PM.

[Dan]

I'd use a pair of relays because of the real possibility of overloading the switch. Use one 75 amp relay for the ignition circuits and one for the accessory circuits, both triggered by the ignition switch being in the run position. Then you can use a push button starter or floor starter.

Actually thinking about it again, are you sure the switch doesn't have accessory and ignition positions but no start position? The start position would be spring loaded.

[jaaroquai]

I'd use a pair of relays because of the real possibility of overloading the switch. Use one 75 amp relay for the ignition circuits and one for the accessory circuits, both triggered by the ignition switch being in the run position. Then you can use a push button starter or floor starter.

Actually thinking about it again, are you sure the switch doesn't have accessory and ignition positions but no start position? The start position would be spring loaded.

hmm... here is the ignistion switch ignition switch.

start position is it the crank? if it is, then its there at no 3. the problem is for the aux and the ignition.

the terminals are numbered and as follow

no 1 - only 1 terminal (batt)

no 2 - 2 terminals (from the wiring diagram one goes to the ignition light and the other one im not too sure if converting from an spi wiring)

no 3 - 2 terminals which i'm sure it's for the crank. so not sure about the other terminal.

as for the spi

batt goes straight to the middle of the switch back, then aux, ignition and crank.

[Dan]

Ok so it doesn't need a seperate start switch. Wire heavy duty relays to run the ignition and accessory circuits, both switched by the switch being in position 2 and wire cranking directly to position 3.

[jaaroquai]

alrite.. but i dont think its a straight forward job is it? since some of the wires from the instruments are connected by the ignition switch wiring and some may go to the ecu/fuses. or can i just connect the two wires (aux and ignition) straight forward to no 2 with 2 terminals on the older type ignition switch? while the relays added up somewhere between the wires (between ignition switch and the end of the wires)?

if its hard then i might send it to the electrical workshop

[jaaroquai]

hey dan and all the guys who replied.

my bad... the wires for the ignition switch and the pressure light are not well connected. my mistake. now i dont think i'll have any problems with changing to the center binnacles. just to confirm back

1. ignition light - white link to red and the black to the brown yellow... correct?
2. pressure light - white to red and black to white brown... correct?

and yes the bulb holders are not earthed to the instrument. the red and black wires are from the back of the bulb holders.

---- this issue has been solved... thanks all

as for the alternator.... without lights turn on.. its about 13.4v - 13.5v. and with light turn on it goes up to about 13.8-13.9v. is the alternator still good?

another issue. how do i use the nippon senki rpm meter? i did tried before connecting the wire and the rounded slot in but nothing. do i need to feed a live as well? how to go about it?

as for the keys/ignition switch... any guide/suggestions/step by step guide. thanks!

Edited by jaaroquai, 04 April 2010 - 09:07 AM.

[jaaroquai]

anyone?