
Lucas 43d With Aldon Ignitor Problems
#1
Posted 23 April 2010 - 08:35 PM
Got the multimeter out and connected it as per instruction from aldon, positive to neg on coil, negative to ground with the centre dizzy lead, got 12V when ignition turned on but then dropped to a constant 4v when engine cranking, reset ignition turned it on again then had 1v on the multimeter and again 4v when cranking, instruction say might have short circuit on the power transistor (assuming this is why spark weak), but don't where I am looking or how to correct issue.
Is there any whizz's out there that can point in the right direction. Many Thanks
#2
Posted 23 April 2010 - 09:33 PM
if you have spark and fuel it is a timing issue - check you have the leads in the right order and that you haven't got the dizzy drive 180 degrees out when you removed it.
#3
Posted 24 April 2010 - 07:56 AM
Got leads in right order 1-3-4-2 and took rocker cover off to check number 4 valves were rocking when number 1 at TDC.
So I am pretty confident that the basic timing is right.
I don't know about this power transisitor issue, also gold coil is only reading 2.8ohm, I thought it was meant to be at least 3ohm.
#4
Posted 24 April 2010 - 10:00 AM
#5
Posted 24 April 2010 - 10:04 AM
Got leads in right order 1-3-4-2 and took rocker cover off to check number 4 valves were rocking when number 1 at TDC.
So I am pretty confident that the basic timing is right.
Did you reset the ignition timing though ?? what you described above is the valve timing which isn't affected by the dizzy.
How I set mine to get it running was set the engine to TDC (No 1cylinder) the one nearest radiator
removed No 1 plug but reattached HT lead.Have plug so its resting on the block
slacken dizzy
turn ignition on
now turn dizzy anticlockwise a few degrees, then turn it clockwise until you see the plug spark, the point where it just sparked, retighten dizzy, then try to start car.
then use a strobe or which ever method you use to dynamically time the ignition
Just to confirm you have the red wire on the Aldon to the positive on coil, the black wire to the negative on the coil.
Then your new 12v ignition feed goes to the positive on the coil !!, thats how it should be anyway
Edited by lrostoke, 24 April 2010 - 10:07 AM.
#6
Posted 24 April 2010 - 12:48 PM
#7
Posted 24 April 2010 - 08:32 PM
#8
Posted 24 April 2010 - 08:37 PM
#9
Posted 24 April 2010 - 08:44 PM
#10
Posted 24 April 2010 - 08:55 PM
Was the car running before you fitted the ignitor. If so and nothing else as been messed with, then if the ignitor is fitted and setup correctly then it should run.
If it doesn't run then wrong fitting or faulty unit
One point which model of ignitor have you got ?? If its LU144, you need to make sure there is a clearance gap of 25 thou between the module and the centre ring, you have to enlarge one of the mounting holes to do this.
#11
Posted 24 April 2010 - 08:58 PM
#12
Posted 24 April 2010 - 09:11 PM
#13
Posted 25 April 2010 - 08:22 AM
Alot of new has been fitted I am slowly eliminating stuff, I thought the sparks were weak because they were sparking but Aldon beased fault description said if I was getting a constant 3-4V while cranking, then power transisitor could be short circuit, so assumed spark should be more powerful, but don't know how to further fault find on ignitor system as aldon closed until tomorrow.
#14
Posted 25 April 2010 - 10:34 AM
#15
Posted 30 April 2010 - 12:53 PM
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