14 replies to this topic

[Brams96]

I have just installed a Smith 52mm Water Temp Gauge but I'm not 100% sure on something.

Can I connect the gauge to the same temp sensor on the block as well as the original dash gauge? or will this cause them both to read wrong?
Also where is the best place to connect to the voltage regulator?

Cheers

[jonny d]

I tried to rig the two gauges up on one sender and they both read wrong also placed the regulator under the dash on passenger side so that it could be accessed easily. you do know that where it says top on the regulator,that means it should be installed that way up ok hope this helps

[Brams96]

Thanks. My gauge didn't come with a regulator and I dont have one so what type should I get? Is there not one on the car already I can hook into?

Edit:
Do I need to get a Voltage Stabilizer like this one? How many gauges can I run off the 1 Stabilizer?

Edited by Brams96, 29 April 2010 - 08:35 PM.

[Brams96]

Just thought of some more questions:

If i keep the original dash gauge with the original probe, where is the best place to add a new probe in for water temp?
Or should I disconnect the original gauge and use the new smith gauge? If so, can I just disconnect the wire from the back of the gauge and connect it to the new gauge?

Edited by Brams96, 29 April 2010 - 09:35 PM.

[Brams96]

Any ideas . . . anyone?

[jonny d]

Hi ya again you could buy a thermostat housing with a drilling for a sender and use that or a sandwhich plate and as far as i can remember you have to wire the new smiths gauge by the way I have smiths gauges in my dash and they look really good so good choice. oh and about the voltage stabaliser you probably already have one fitted behind the speedo somewhere and they are good for 2 gauges

Edited by jonny d, 30 April 2010 - 11:20 PM.

[dklawson]

I'm sure you have a reason you want to run two temperature gauges... but I'd spend the money on some type of gauge you don't already have.

Regardless, the stabilizer you posted the link to will work but it is AWFUL darn expensive. Consider this type as an alternative:
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item414f19b284
(eBay item 280499958404 , 12 GBP delivered)

[Brams96]

Yeah I thought it was bloody expensive too! thats why I asked if there was one already in the car I can use. I wanted to add a different water temp gauge as the one on the car is hard to see and doesn't seem that accurate to me, at least with the smith gauge I can see the actual temperature. I will be adding a smiths oil pressure gauge as well so I have a more accurate idea of what is going on under the hood.

Jonny d - The picture you posted in the thread about your fan explosion shows an aluminium box plumbed into the top rad hose, what is this for? Could I do something similar for the water temp?

Cheers for the replies.

[Brams96]

Thanks for the link, I've bought one so it should be here in a couple of days.

I took the dash console off but couldn't see any voltage stabilizer so guessed it must be integral to the unit. Plus if it can only run 2 gauges then the fuel and temp gauges already in are those. I'll install the new stabiliser with new water temp and oil pressure gauges so it should all work ok then.

Can I use the oil pressure sensor already in the block or at least use a new sensor in that position? If not where can I plumb it into?

[dklawson]

If you have Nippon Seiki gauges, the stabilizer is internal and combined with one of the two gauges. The add-on stabilizer you purchased will be a good way to get the 10V you need for the new gauges.

Most Smiths oil pressure gauges I have seen are mechanical (apart from those used on some mid- to late-1970s MGBs). Are you sure the one you purchased is electrical and needs the stabilizer? Are you sure the stock one on your Mini is electrical? Regardless, do not plan on running two electrical gauges off of one sending unit. This is exactly the same issue as your initial question about running two temperature gauges off one sending unit. It won't work.

To run two oil pressure gauges use a "T" adapter on the block so you can run the two gauges separately regardless of whether they are electrical or mechanical... or if you want to run the gauge and a low pressure warning light.

[Brams96]

Sorry I should have been more specific.
The original 3 clock dash has a oil pressure warning light not a pressure gauge. I want to run a new pressure gauge and wondered if I can use the sensor that triggers the light to input to the gauge? I take it that I have to swap the pressure switch currently in the block to a different pressure sensor? Is THIS the kind of sender I need? I did come accross another thread about using an adapter do you know anything about these?

The gauge is deffinitely electrical (LINKY) or so the guy says.

[dklawson]

You will have to ask others about electrical oil pressure sending units. As I mentioned, the only ones I'm familiar with were used on MGBs. When you have the electrical oil pressure gauge in hand, perhaps a call to Speedy Cables would be in order. Tell them the model numbers off the front of the gauge and they may be able to tell you what sending unit is compatible.

You cannot use the existing "sending unit" for the light with your new gauge. The part installed on your car at the moment (for the light) is just a pressure switch. It is either on, or off. Your electric gauge expects a variable resistance so it can operate through a range.

The adapter is a pipe "T". I'm sure if you visit the Mini Spares web site and search through their gauge section looking for "adapters" you will find one suitable to allow use of both the switch and the pressure sending unit.

[Brams96]

Do you know of any companies that can supply replacement faces for Smiths gauges?

[Brams96]

If I get a mechanical gauge instead what sensor and braided line should I get? Is this the right line?

[jonny d]

Hello thats the one I bought for mine but be warned it didnt come with any small washer seals